Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Got boost issues after P7100 tuning.

[JGheen]

Re: Plate

Originally posted by MLee

Could he just pull the plate for a run to check and see if he built boost?? and see if the lever is causing the hang up?

how about RE-grinding the plate to the #10 configuration, or close to it > just a suggestion. or,, just a bad suggestion.

Marv.

What do you mean?? Pull the Banks plate out and start the engine without it an drive it to see if I build boost?? Not sure what your asking?? I am building boost, just not as much as before, like I am not pushing as much exhaust through the turbo to spin it faster for more boost. It only gets to like 30 psi in thrid and 4th, so I think once I get that #10 plate in then I should be back to normal and then some.

 

[mikel]

Personally, I wouldn't just install a plate "to be back to normal and then some". I'd do whatever was necessary to figure out why it changed and address that issue before changing plates. To me, changing the plate without finding and fixing the cause of your low boost problem is just a bandaid.



Just my . 0002



Mike

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by mikel

Personally, I wouldn't just install a plate "to be back to normal and then some". I'd do whatever was necessary to figure out why it changed and address that issue before changing plates. To me, changing the plate without finding and fixing the cause of your low boost problem is just a bandaid.



Just my . 0002



Mike

Well, I explained all my symptoms to Mark @ Peirs and he told me the reason for the low boost and low power was the plate and the lever not reaching the plate to fuel the engine. I have fixed all my boost issues I am sure of it. I have checked all the clamps, boots, hoses, manifold gaskets, etc. and everything is good and tight. I am still making boost, just no fuel to spin the turbo up. Thanks for the concern, I just hope the plate fixes it, and according to Mark, it should.

 

[Cooker]

I agree the #10 is a better plate overall than the Banks plate, but I would first try to fix the cause of the problem before just putting different parts on it. It's not like the plate went bad JMHO.

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by Cooker

I agree the #10 is a better plate overall than the Banks plate, but I would first try to fix the cause of the problem before just putting different parts on it. It's not like the plate went bad JMHO.

I understand that, but according to Mark @ Peirs the plate I am running now is not hitting the govenore lever. Again, according to Mark I have done everything to diagnose the issue and after explaining to him what the symptoms were, he told me that a #10 plate will solve all the issues with boost and power. He said that the engine is just not burning enough fuel to produce the boost and power that should be seeing with the GSK.



OK, just to clear things up here, the next person who post on this thread, please let me know if you had to do a govenor lever adjustment after you 3K GSK install. And let me know what plate you were running at the time of the install. Thanks.

 

[Cooker]

I have installed three 3,000 RPM GSK kits, one with a #10 and two with a #4. None of them needed to have the governor lever adjusted after the GSK install.

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by Cooker

I have installed three 3,000 RPM GSK kits, one with a #10 and two with a #4. None of them needed to have the governor lever adjusted after the GSK install.

Wheeew!! That makes me feel better, I sure hope I don't need one. Thanks for that info.

BTW, did the engines that you did the installs on have a lever adjustment before or were they at stock settings, that you know of??

 

[San Felipe Bob]

I can help!

I have been down the same road.

I too had the banks set and wanted more. .

And boy have I found MORE!!!

You can move the Banks plate forward and it will work pretty good with the rest of the Banks upgrades.

I had about 34 to 36 lbs of boost with the Banks Stuff tuned. .

Check my Sig. for current set up.

#10 plate is still dead center of the adjustment = manageable EGT's with more room for lots more power.

If you are not doing injectors stick with the Banks plate and adjust the Gov. lever.

I have the answers.

You may not like the answers... .

The Gov. lever is a real pain to adjust.

However to if you want power you need a little smoke.

To get smoke you have to move the plate forward

When you move the plate forward you need to adjust the Gov. lever.

It's really not much harder than the GSK springs.



JGheen

check your PM's

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by JGheen

BTW, did the engines that you did the installs on have a lever adjustment before or were they at stock settings, that you know of??

On all three the lever had never been adjusted.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Read my post to you on the '911, I've run a plate like yours w/3ks in a 95 5spd with great success for 30 or 40k miles. I like the #10 and 3k's better but it will work, if set up right. Some trucks need the lever adjustment, some do not. If yours did sometimes sliding the plate ahead (full forward) makes the problem worse, now the strap is really under the nose.



With a stock plate the lever / to plate profile is very forgiving.



You can end up with a workable combo with your parts, you will just like the #10 better.

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by Andy Redmond

Read my post to you on the '911, I've run a plate like yours w/3ks in a 95 5spd with great success for 30 or 40k miles. I like the #10 and 3k's better but it will work, if set up right. Some trucks need the lever adjustment, some do not. If yours did sometimes sliding the plate ahead (full forward) makes the problem worse, now the strap is really under the nose.



With a stock plate the lever / to plate profile is very forgiving.



You can end up with a workable combo with your parts, you will just like the #10 better.

Yeah, I think I will like the #10 better, from what everyone has been saying.

If I move my current Banks plate all the way back, would it not give the engine enough fuel or would that increase the chance of the lever going under the plate?? Just thinking of something to do in the meantime. I am not driving my truck until I get the #10 plate and if tht doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do, but:{ But maybe I'll get enough balls and stop whining about the lever adjustment and just do it.

On checking the lever and where it is. you just pull up the shutdown solenoid lever and give it how much throttle?? Does it matter how much throttle you give it or are you just checking to see if the lever even hits the plate?? I'm just confused about the throttle aspect of it. If you give it more it will ride on the plate higher right? Just wondering how to know when it is adjusted properly, if I am going to need an adjustment after the #10 install.

 

[nascar mark]

Joe,



Take a deep breath man. Everything will be alright. I can see from all your posts and our conversations your getting mixed up. Everyones trying to help but I can see your not going to adjust the governor lever, so just wait until the #10 plate arrives and throw it in . 030" forward from center. If you want even more go, move it another . 030" forward, but no more than that.

If your not happy with the results, call me and you will be refunded fully what you payed for the plate.

Its as easy as that!

 

[JGheen]

Thanks Mark

Thanks for the post Mark.

Yeah, this stuff can be frustrating and I am still just learning and asking questions to the stuff that confuses me. It is all starting to come together and my knowledge of this pump is growing. If you have a cutaway link or possibly know of a good book out there to help me see things more clearly without the phone calls and posts, I would be interested to know where I could find it.

Anyway, I'll throw the plate in and see what happens, thanks again!



Joe

 

[TORQUED TAYLOR]

I have the #6 tst plate and when I did the 3000gsk and I had the low boost problems since the #6 plate is touchy. I did have to adjust the lever and it was a piece of cake. If you can do the gsk install you can VERY easily do the gov lever adjustment!

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by TORQUED TAYLOR

I have the #6 tst plate and when I did the 3000gsk and I had the low boost problems since the #6 plate is touchy. I did have to adjust the lever and it was a piece of cake. If you can do the gsk install you can VERY easily do the gov lever adjustment!

Did you have to remove the fuel filter or are your hands small, unlike mine, which is why I think it would be a PITA to access the adjustment screw??

 

[TORQUED TAYLOR]

I did not remove the fuel filter and my hands are a large glove. I think Piers was the one who walked me through it. It made a HUGE difference once done.

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by TORQUED TAYLOR

I did not remove the fuel filter and my hands are a large glove. I think Piers was the one who walked me through it. It made a HUGE difference once done.

What tools did you use?? I see you are in Anahiem, would you be willing to guild me through it or do it for me for a $$?? Just curious. I would like to learn how to do it, just tight quarters and I don't want to hack up my tools just for that job. Cuz I guess you need some really stubby tools to get it done.

 

[TORQUED TAYLOR]

I would help you but won't be home for the next 3 weekends. I didn't use any special tools or need to cut any. Who did you buy the GSK from?

 

[JGheen]

Oh well

That sucks your going to be gone, oh well, maybe if there are any other mods I need assistance with I can call upon you.

I got the GSK from Piers and their instructions were really helpful but their gov. lever directions are kind of short and to the point. I knwo it isn't that hard of a description, but I guess if I get stuck I can call Piers or Mark.

So what tools did you use for that adjustment?? I have heard you need a deep 10mm 1/4" drive socket for the locking nut, but wondering how small of a screw driver you would need, or can you turn the adjusting screw with you hands?? Also, one guy told me to watch out, cuz when he did his adjustment, he accidentally dropped that 10mm deep socket in the pump when he tried to pull it back out after loosening the lock nut. The whole thing is kind of scary to me, just cuz of the tight quarters, but I am sure if need be I can get it done. Just hope if doesn't take me forever.

Hey, a good way to tell if the lever has ever been adjusted before is if that factory anti-tamper wire has been cut off right?? Just like the one over the GSK plug on the side of the pump??

Also, if you have any helping tips as where to put my hands through for the best reach back there or anything to watch out for, that would be great as well.

Thanks for all your advice, Torqued Taylor.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Un-plug as many electrical connectors as needed to get better access.



If you drop anything inside just remove the #10 plate for access with your retrieving magnet.



SFB