Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I installed the Auto-Meter Ultra-lite gauges, and Edge Comp. last night!
Here is the list of parts, I got all of this from Tim, Thanks bud! :bigthumb
- Auto-Meter 15PSI Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge with Isolator.
- Auto-Meter Pyro/Exhaust Temp Gauge
- Auto-Meter 60 PSI Boost Gauge
- Auto-Meter 3 Gauge A-Pillar Mount w/Tweeter
- Edge Comp Preformance Chip
Parts I had to get at local hardware stores and other places. These parts unfortunately do not come with the gauges themselves and have to be purchased seperately. [size=-2](An FYI to venders on this site, if you have resourses to thes parts, and want to sell more stuff to Diesel members, take note, and maybe put together a package deal, hint hint!)[/size]
- 2. 5' Fuel Line with Female A. N. adaptors ( recommend 90* elbow fittings ) (#4 size)
- 2. 5' Fuel Line with 1 Female 90* A. N. fitting and 1 Male A. N. fitting (#4 size)
- 3/4" - 1/4" pipe adaptor (male 3/4" - 1/4" Female)
- 14 or 16 Gauge wire
- Chrysler Stereo Dash Adaptor (w/open tray below deck)
- *****ortment of Wire Connectors
- 1 5/16" Bolt 1" long
Tools needed to do this install.
- Tap and Die set W/#20 Pipe Fitting Tap ( finally found this at Sears )
- *****ortment of wrenches, open and sockets
- Utility Knife
- Wire Cutters
- Screw Drivers
- Drill W/ an 11/32" Drill Bit
- Torch or Lighter
- Valve Stem Remover
Ok, here we go! (Jason, can ya tell I am shooting for a write up for the Showcase? :rotfl )
1. ) First disconnected both batteries.
2. ) Took apart the dash, knee booster, dash bezel, fuse door, headlight switch and A-pillar. Also removed the tweeter from the OEM pillar. This comes out very simply by pressing on the 3 clips on the back.
3. ) I also was installing a new Pioneer CD deck (out of my old truck) So I removed the OEM unit as well
4. ) I assembled the Gauge pod as I wanted it to lay out. Boost up top, then Pyro, then FP on the bottom. There is a little more room behind the bottom pillar, so this works better with the FP gauge as I used a mechanical unit with a Stainless Steel Line.
5. ) You have to feed the stainless line down through the dash. This took me some time and a few choice words before I thought to take the fuse box door off. Do this first and save yourself a headache. Also remember to remove the Headlight switch, makes this task much easier. I feed the line down and then punched it through the Main wire harness gromet into the engine bay. Its tight in there, dont be surprised if you lose some skin on the knuckles! Score the rubber with a knife in an "X" pattern, and it should push through!
6. ) I proceeded to the engine bay next.
7. ) For the Pyro/EGT gauge, you need to drill a hole into the exhaust system. Some people say pre-turbo, other say post-turbo. Obviously pre-turbo in my book is the best as it will get you the best reading for the EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temperature) I chose to go pre-turbo and also chose the rear bank of the manifold. (as this is the hottest due to Cylinder #6 is the hot cylinder) You will need to drill a 11/32" hole and then tap it for a #20 Pipe thread. Install the "gromet" nut, then the pyro probe.
#ad
8. ) The Pyro came with a yellow solid core 2-wire cord with wire loop fittings. Hook up these as indicated by the wire colors. Dont forget to put the shrink tube on before you hook these up! When snug, slide shrink tubing (included with the gauge) over the wire fitting, and heat with a torch or lighter. (remember, there is flammablie stuff under the hood, be cautious) Then feed this wire into the cab through the same hole you punched for the FP line, and up the dash to the gauge. Again, its color coated, just follow the instructions!
9. ) The boost gauge can be hooked up a few different ways, either though a boost bolt that bolts into the intake horn, or by tapping into the block. I chose the block, as this can be done with local hardware store parts. There is a 3/4" plug right behind the Fuel Filter houseing. A 1/2" socket extension should take it out easily! Take the 3/4" - 1/4" pipe adaptor and put some teflon tape on it, and screw that into this port after you remove the plug. Then screw the fitting supplied with the Boost Gauge into the adaptor, again use some teflon tape. Run the boost hose (supplied with gauge) again through the same hole as the FP and Pyro into the cab and up to the pillar. Using supplied fittings, attach the hose on each end.
#ad
(sorry for the dark pic)
10. ) Now for the Fuel Pressure hook up. This took alot of the fun out of this, just due to the fact that parts for me, were hard to find, and local parts stores were no help. I suggest that you order the hoses ahead of fooling with any of this. I went with the Auto-Meter Gauge with an Isolator, due to hearing about problems with Gauges failing due to Pressure spikes from the VP-44 Injection Pump on the Cummins. I decided to mount the Isolator on the Intake Horn, and it would out perfect, as there is a hole with a 5/16" thread on the bottom side, I just bolted the Iso to that. Now, I decided to use the Shrader N. A. fitting on the side of the injection pump to tap into. You will need about a 2. 5' Fuel line with 2 90* Female N. A. fittings to hook it up the way I did. To do this, and not use a special hose, I just took a valve stem screwdriver and removed the check valve from the shrader valve. Then hook this hose into the top port on the Iso.
#ad
11. ) I then proceeded to pull my hair out when I learned that the Stainless Line that is provided with the Auto-Meter gauge only made it 18" past the fire wall... with how much Stuff Dodge packed in that corner, I was screwed. So I Then got another hose made, 2. 5' long with a male N. A. fitting on one end, and a female 90* on the other. Filled it with Anti-Freeze, and extended the existing line and hooked it up to the bottom of the Isolator.
#ad
12. ) Next I ran the Edge Comp control wire into the cab through the same Gromet as all the other items, I must say, pushing that connector through there is a PITA. I decided to try somthing new so I pulled the wire up to the area of the Stereo Deck. I then hooked up the connectors under the hood as it said to in the directions. Only wire I didnt hook up was the VP-44 Injection Pump Tap wire, as I am still under warranty, and Dodge Voids the engine warranty if that wire is tapped. Only 4k more miles before its over! The Edge Directions are awesome!
13. ) You need to remove the boost fitting on the turbo houseing with the one provided by Edge. Very simple, remove the intake duct to make it easier to get at, pull off the hose, unscrew the existing fitting, and replace it. install hose clamp, and put it all back together. That is it for that part.
#ad
14. ) Now, for the Cab finish. Stereo was simple, as I had the deck in my other Dodge, so It had already been wired up, just plug in and go. I didnt feel like tapping into wires under the dash that I didnt know what was what, and since I already had the Stereo out, I decided to tap into that harness for power for the Edge Box and the lights for the Gauges. Since the After market deck didnt use the Dimmer, I tapped into the Orange/White wire for the lights in the Gauges (works with the dimmer then too ) I then tapped into the Red wire for the Comp Box and the Power lead for the Pyro.
15. ) I wanted to install the Comp box so it looked stock, and didnt look like I just slapped it on the dash some where... . so I got creative. I got an adaptor kit for my new stereo that had a slot that was open on the bottom instead of centering the deck. (by the way, I got it at a specialty stereo shop, Best Buy, and local auto stores just had the centered one like I already had) I cut out the needed plastic, velcroed it to the parts of the bracket I could. Mounted it all up, and this is what she looks like!
#ad
16. ) I didnt want to cut up the OEM A-pillar, so I am still looking for ways to mount the pillar. Currently its held in by one screw behind the rubber deal around the door.
I also chucked the original plain bulbs for some Blue LEDs
#ad
17. ) Reassemble the dash and hook the batteries back up.
18. ) Turn the Key to the on possition. but not all the way on. The Fuel Lift Pump should run for a few seconds. There is a bleeder screw on top of the Isolator, unscrew it and let out the air. Continue this step until just Fuel is released. You can see the bleeder screw in this pic, just to the left of the hose fitting.
#ad
19. ) Start it up and check for leaks. And Give it a test drive!
20. ) Enjoy the new found Power your cummins has!!!
Here is the list of parts, I got all of this from Tim, Thanks bud! :bigthumb
- Auto-Meter 15PSI Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge with Isolator.
- Auto-Meter Pyro/Exhaust Temp Gauge
- Auto-Meter 60 PSI Boost Gauge
- Auto-Meter 3 Gauge A-Pillar Mount w/Tweeter
- Edge Comp Preformance Chip
Parts I had to get at local hardware stores and other places. These parts unfortunately do not come with the gauges themselves and have to be purchased seperately. [size=-2](An FYI to venders on this site, if you have resourses to thes parts, and want to sell more stuff to Diesel members, take note, and maybe put together a package deal, hint hint!)[/size]
- 2. 5' Fuel Line with Female A. N. adaptors ( recommend 90* elbow fittings ) (#4 size)
- 2. 5' Fuel Line with 1 Female 90* A. N. fitting and 1 Male A. N. fitting (#4 size)
- 3/4" - 1/4" pipe adaptor (male 3/4" - 1/4" Female)
- 14 or 16 Gauge wire
- Chrysler Stereo Dash Adaptor (w/open tray below deck)
- *****ortment of Wire Connectors
- 1 5/16" Bolt 1" long
Tools needed to do this install.
- Tap and Die set W/#20 Pipe Fitting Tap ( finally found this at Sears )
- *****ortment of wrenches, open and sockets
- Utility Knife
- Wire Cutters
- Screw Drivers
- Drill W/ an 11/32" Drill Bit
- Torch or Lighter
- Valve Stem Remover
Ok, here we go! (Jason, can ya tell I am shooting for a write up for the Showcase? :rotfl )
1. ) First disconnected both batteries.
2. ) Took apart the dash, knee booster, dash bezel, fuse door, headlight switch and A-pillar. Also removed the tweeter from the OEM pillar. This comes out very simply by pressing on the 3 clips on the back.
3. ) I also was installing a new Pioneer CD deck (out of my old truck) So I removed the OEM unit as well
4. ) I assembled the Gauge pod as I wanted it to lay out. Boost up top, then Pyro, then FP on the bottom. There is a little more room behind the bottom pillar, so this works better with the FP gauge as I used a mechanical unit with a Stainless Steel Line.
5. ) You have to feed the stainless line down through the dash. This took me some time and a few choice words before I thought to take the fuse box door off. Do this first and save yourself a headache. Also remember to remove the Headlight switch, makes this task much easier. I feed the line down and then punched it through the Main wire harness gromet into the engine bay. Its tight in there, dont be surprised if you lose some skin on the knuckles! Score the rubber with a knife in an "X" pattern, and it should push through!
6. ) I proceeded to the engine bay next.
7. ) For the Pyro/EGT gauge, you need to drill a hole into the exhaust system. Some people say pre-turbo, other say post-turbo. Obviously pre-turbo in my book is the best as it will get you the best reading for the EGT's (Exhaust Gas Temperature) I chose to go pre-turbo and also chose the rear bank of the manifold. (as this is the hottest due to Cylinder #6 is the hot cylinder) You will need to drill a 11/32" hole and then tap it for a #20 Pipe thread. Install the "gromet" nut, then the pyro probe.
#ad8. ) The Pyro came with a yellow solid core 2-wire cord with wire loop fittings. Hook up these as indicated by the wire colors. Dont forget to put the shrink tube on before you hook these up! When snug, slide shrink tubing (included with the gauge) over the wire fitting, and heat with a torch or lighter. (remember, there is flammablie stuff under the hood, be cautious) Then feed this wire into the cab through the same hole you punched for the FP line, and up the dash to the gauge. Again, its color coated, just follow the instructions!
9. ) The boost gauge can be hooked up a few different ways, either though a boost bolt that bolts into the intake horn, or by tapping into the block. I chose the block, as this can be done with local hardware store parts. There is a 3/4" plug right behind the Fuel Filter houseing. A 1/2" socket extension should take it out easily! Take the 3/4" - 1/4" pipe adaptor and put some teflon tape on it, and screw that into this port after you remove the plug. Then screw the fitting supplied with the Boost Gauge into the adaptor, again use some teflon tape. Run the boost hose (supplied with gauge) again through the same hole as the FP and Pyro into the cab and up to the pillar. Using supplied fittings, attach the hose on each end.
#ad(sorry for the dark pic)
10. ) Now for the Fuel Pressure hook up. This took alot of the fun out of this, just due to the fact that parts for me, were hard to find, and local parts stores were no help. I suggest that you order the hoses ahead of fooling with any of this. I went with the Auto-Meter Gauge with an Isolator, due to hearing about problems with Gauges failing due to Pressure spikes from the VP-44 Injection Pump on the Cummins. I decided to mount the Isolator on the Intake Horn, and it would out perfect, as there is a hole with a 5/16" thread on the bottom side, I just bolted the Iso to that. Now, I decided to use the Shrader N. A. fitting on the side of the injection pump to tap into. You will need about a 2. 5' Fuel line with 2 90* Female N. A. fittings to hook it up the way I did. To do this, and not use a special hose, I just took a valve stem screwdriver and removed the check valve from the shrader valve. Then hook this hose into the top port on the Iso.
#ad11. ) I then proceeded to pull my hair out when I learned that the Stainless Line that is provided with the Auto-Meter gauge only made it 18" past the fire wall... with how much Stuff Dodge packed in that corner, I was screwed. So I Then got another hose made, 2. 5' long with a male N. A. fitting on one end, and a female 90* on the other. Filled it with Anti-Freeze, and extended the existing line and hooked it up to the bottom of the Isolator.
#ad12. ) Next I ran the Edge Comp control wire into the cab through the same Gromet as all the other items, I must say, pushing that connector through there is a PITA. I decided to try somthing new so I pulled the wire up to the area of the Stereo Deck. I then hooked up the connectors under the hood as it said to in the directions. Only wire I didnt hook up was the VP-44 Injection Pump Tap wire, as I am still under warranty, and Dodge Voids the engine warranty if that wire is tapped. Only 4k more miles before its over! The Edge Directions are awesome!
13. ) You need to remove the boost fitting on the turbo houseing with the one provided by Edge. Very simple, remove the intake duct to make it easier to get at, pull off the hose, unscrew the existing fitting, and replace it. install hose clamp, and put it all back together. That is it for that part.
#ad14. ) Now, for the Cab finish. Stereo was simple, as I had the deck in my other Dodge, so It had already been wired up, just plug in and go. I didnt feel like tapping into wires under the dash that I didnt know what was what, and since I already had the Stereo out, I decided to tap into that harness for power for the Edge Box and the lights for the Gauges. Since the After market deck didnt use the Dimmer, I tapped into the Orange/White wire for the lights in the Gauges (works with the dimmer then too ) I then tapped into the Red wire for the Comp Box and the Power lead for the Pyro.
15. ) I wanted to install the Comp box so it looked stock, and didnt look like I just slapped it on the dash some where... . so I got creative. I got an adaptor kit for my new stereo that had a slot that was open on the bottom instead of centering the deck. (by the way, I got it at a specialty stereo shop, Best Buy, and local auto stores just had the centered one like I already had) I cut out the needed plastic, velcroed it to the parts of the bracket I could. Mounted it all up, and this is what she looks like!
#ad16. ) I didnt want to cut up the OEM A-pillar, so I am still looking for ways to mount the pillar. Currently its held in by one screw behind the rubber deal around the door.
I also chucked the original plain bulbs for some Blue LEDs
#ad17. ) Reassemble the dash and hook the batteries back up.
18. ) Turn the Key to the on possition. but not all the way on. The Fuel Lift Pump should run for a few seconds. There is a bleeder screw on top of the Isolator, unscrew it and let out the air. Continue this step until just Fuel is released. You can see the bleeder screw in this pic, just to the left of the hose fitting.
#ad19. ) Start it up and check for leaks. And Give it a test drive!
20. ) Enjoy the new found Power your cummins has!!!
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10lbs at idle, and I can get it to drop all the way to 3psi at WOT. Guess a new fuel pusher is going to be in order. Its kinda sad, the lift pump puts out damn near 14psi at the prime stage, but then cant hold it worth beens when its running. Damn cheap skates at DC. 
Anyway, after driving the truck for about 45 Min,the gauge all of a sudden let go, and moved freely, 12 psi at crusing speeds, 6psi If i held it to the floor for a LONG time (gave up at 100+MPH) and 14-15+ PSI at idle (15 psi gauge was pegged) So I figured, it must be fine. Drove it again tonight on the way home, and it was doing the 9PSI deal again. but again, it caused the needle to NOT move at all, even under WOT, it wouldnt drop. I am thinking the darn thing is "sticking" or somthing. 
