Gotta love the UPS man when he's delivering a TURBO

[Tomeygun]

On mine I just reused the stock intercooler hose as I didn't have the means to fab a new pipe. It was a bit of a stretch though! Since I reused the stock pipe, I also had to rotate the intercooler pipe about 180*and grind some clearance on some metal brackets on the corner of the battery tray.



Just in case for future use I bought some silicone hose and had the supplier custom make one end 3" and the other 2. 75" (intercooler pipe end). It was only about $15-20 to have this custom piece made. Lastly as an addition to wcounts recommendations, if you do use new silicone hose, double-check on the clamp size as the high-pressure rated hose is pretty thick walled. Don't ask me how I know this after I had everything apart... (the 3" clamps I bought were a hair too small)

So to use my stock intercooler pipe, I will need to rotate 180*, and then I will also need to manhandle the too-small boot onto the 3 inch compressor outlet, right? So I better have a 3 inch clamp for the compressor outlet eblow, Certainly the the factory one will not work, right?

 

[lmills]

Yes, you need to spin the intercooler pipe over. I actually had to have Scott cut the bottom out of my AFE box also to make clearance for the intercooler pipe. I didn't mind though. It just made the air filter more open.

 

[Tomeygun]

Yes, you need to spin the intercooler pipe over. I actually had to have Scott cut the bottom out of my AFE box also to make clearance for the intercooler pipe. I didn't mind though. It just made the air filter more open.

Good excuse to fire up the compressor and use the new cut-off tool that the wife bought me



Tonight was looking good until two other salespeople cut out before I could, Now too late, Darn it



Looks like saturday night the wife can forget about going out, Its turbo hanging time!

 

[lmills]

BTW tomey, if memory serves me correct, we reused all the oil line fittings and drain back pieces out of my stock turbo. Of course, like I said that was going off my memory. I could be totally wrong.

 

[Tomeygun]

BTW tomey, if memory serves me correct, we reused all the oil line fittings and drain back pieces out of my stock turbo. Of course, like I said that was going off my memory. I could be totally wrong.

No your right, you use the stock turbo's oil fitting



I asked paul about why have the 2 holes for the adapter (trying to throw me off?!) -- He said some old models used a fitting/adapter, But then they just started tapping threads into the turbo so the fitting/adapter was not needed



I am pretty confident now, But I still think I'll have a few friends over to help me drink beer and curse if needed





The post by "Jstieger" helped a TON - now I will not be just guessing when it comes to where/how to hook up the intercooler



thanks ya'll

 

[JStieger]

Tomeygun-



I was just verifying lmills memory - he was the one that told me that the "stock hose was a stretch" (his exact words from looking up an old PM!) :-laf . The factory clamp will work on the 3" compressor outlet with the stock hose, but you have to take the clamp apart first since it will not slide over the ridge at the end of the compressor outlet otherwise. BTW I'm still using the stock hose since I didn't have the right clamp to install the new hose. No ill effects yet...



Another tip is to install the drain on the turbo first while on the bench. Otherwise, it's a real biatchy to install it from underneath. While you have it on the bench, hook up an air hose to activate the wastegate to check for clearance. On mine I had to dimple the oil drain tube very slightly with a ball peen hammer to clear the wastegate "can". I have the regular HTB2 so the SP66 might already have the extra clearance, but it never hurts to check.



B1-04 owners can now chime in sarcastically and say "na na na... should have bought a direct bolt in!" :-{}



Good luck!

 

[ThomasLawrence]

B1-04 owners can now chime in sarcastically and say "na na na... should have bought a direct bolt in!"

So can DD Jammer owners (even if they are sitting on the shelf). I'll never understand spending four figures on something that requires things to be fabbed, tweaked, hammered, or ground.



Ah well... here's to the bolt-in kits! Oo.



-Tom

 

[Tomeygun]

So can DD Jammer owners (even if they are sitting on the shelf). I'll never understand spending four figures on something that requires things to be fabbed, tweaked, hammered, or ground.



Ah well... here's to the bolt-in kits! Oo.



-Tom

1) THANKS fo the tips Jstieger



2) I hear ya thomas, Its funny, I kinda thought this was a direct bolt in, I guess I thought a bit wrong... But its kinda close, right? other than DP, which HTT can machine the housing to use the cast elbow... . But still no B1-04 direct drop in...



hope its worth it



BTW - I turned the wastegate up to about 38lbs today, I figured the stocker could live life on the edge for a few days, and I cant tell a darn difference, Other than I feel this warm breeze from under the hood, Like a hair dryer :-laf

 

[jwilliams3]

Well, saying the B104 is a direct drop in is stretching the truth a little.

We had to make studs to hang the thing, rotate the intercooler pipe, reclock the compressor housing, source a couple extra clamps I had laying about.

Also, cut the bottom corner off the AFE intake housing.



It took a while.

 

[lmills]

thomas, did you install your PDR twin kit? The last I heards they weren't totally a direct bolt in either. I heard on the 3rd gens you have to grind the motor mount to make clearance and also move the A/C line

 

[WCounts]

I don't believe you can just drop any turbo in with out making some modifications. I helped a friend install a super 40 and it didn't go in without fab work on the outlet pipe.

I have some pics of my install on this site if it will be some help.

www.setdr.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1413

 

[JStieger]

thomas, did you install your PDR twin kit? The last I heards they weren't totally a direct bolt in either. I heard on the 3rd gens you have to grind the motor mount to make clearance and also move the A/C line

Here's Thomas Lawrence's detailed install pics that he posted a month or so ago on TDR and DTR:



http://home.earthlink.net/~tlawrence52/pdr_twins.html

 

[BIG BOB]

Here's his detailed install pics:



http://home.earthlink.net/~tlawrence52/pdr_twins.html

JStieger,

OUTSTANDING!



That has got to be the best photo documented installation of Twin turbos that I've seen! Thank you for your time and effort to help educate all of us!



You never mentioned the results.

 

[lmills]

Absolutely, I will be checking out your pics!. Thanks

 

[JStieger]

JStieger,

OUTSTANDING!



That has got to be the best photo documented installation of Twin turbos that I've seen! Thank you for your time and effort to help educate all of us!



You never mentioned the results.

Uhhhh... . THEY ARE NOT MY PICS! I DO NOT HAVE TWINS! I REPEAT THEY ARE NOT MY PICS!



THEY ARE TOM'S!!! LET'S GIVE CREDIT TO WHERE IT IS PROPERLY DUE!!!



I WISH THAT I COULD DO EVEN 1/4 OF THE STUFF THAT TOM DID ON HIS TRUCK AND BE ABLE TO DOCUMENT IT LIKE HIS WEB PAGE!

 

[ThomasLawrence]

LOL... thanks, guys. Yeah, the PDR twins were a 98% bolt-in kit. Yes, the A/C line had to be bent out of the way... not a big deal, it can be done by hand (with a silent prayer to DuPont to not let any of their stuff leak out). No grinding of the motor mount was needed at all. Everything that you need is included - they even include a new, modified battery tray to re-locate the grid heaters. There was definately a lot of thought that went into this kit.



As far as results, well... . a little bit more spool-up time than my DD single, but WAY more impressive on the top-end, both in power and EGT reduction. Previously, I could peg 1400°F on a 1/4-mile run pretty easily. Now, even with higher settings (power level 7 on the TST, compared to 5), I can't break 1200°F on the same run.



-Tom

 

[lmills]

Just curious Thomas, how many factory items had to be changed to do the twins? I noticed you mention the coolant line, battery box, airfilter box, A/C line and grid heater relays. Is their anything else someone that was going to them them should know about? Inquiring minds wants to know.

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Is their anything else someone that was going to them them should know about? Inquiring minds wants to know.

Well, you start by pretty much removing everything on the passneger side of the engine, from the exhaust manifold to the battery. The kit comes with new heater lines (the stock lines are in the way of the oil drain line from the top turbo), a new manifold, all the hot and cold piping (a 5" downpipe comes with the kit - I ordered the 5" to 4" reducer separately, to hook to my 4" exhaust), the air filter, the modified battery box, etc. I had to supply/fabricate absolutely nothing throughout the whole installation. I did have to supply both a 5" and a 4" band clamp to hook up the reducer and my exhaust, but that's the case with every turbo kit (you get the downpipe, and you're on your own from there out). The band clamps make it very easy.



If you're interested, e-mail/PM me for a copy of an installation guide I wrote up during the course of my install. If you decide to tackle this installation, additional tips, tricks, and moral support are also available



And before this thread gets COMPLETELY hijacked, I wonder how Tomeygun's making out with his turbo installation?



-Tom

 

[BIG BOB]

Uhhhh... . THEY ARE NOT MY PICS! I DO NOT HAVE TWINS! I REPEAT THEY ARE NOT MY PICS!



THEY ARE TOM'S!!! LET'S GIVE CREDIT TO WHERE IT IS PROPERLY DUE!!!



I WISH THAT I COULD DO EVEN 1/4 OF THE STUFF THAT TOM DID ON HIS TRUCK AND BE ABLE TO DOCUMENT IT LIKE HIS WEB PAGE!

Guess I should have looked at the link, rather that the person that posted it! :-laf



Anyway to put credit where credit is due!



GREAT JOB TOM! THANKS FOR SHARING!

 

[JHardwick]

Is there anything better than a salesman who likes his truck and can actually work on it?



Hats off here