grease bearing

[AH64ID]

I just did my wheel bearings yesterday. It’s been 4.5 years and just under 12K miles since I last did them. The bearings still looked great, and even had pockets of red grease around the bearings still. That being said, the grease in the bearings was due for replacement. They weren’t close to failure but ready for something fresh. 12K isn’t too many miles, but it’s been longer than I normally go in terms of years.

I use Amsoil NLGI #2 GLC grease on all my bearings.

I use slightly different techniques for installing new vs used bearings. New bearings need to start a little tighter since they will wear in a little, where you want used bearings to be a little looser as they are already broke in.

I set my bearings up with no noticeable end play, but IIRC you can have up to 0.002, which isn’t much but should be feelable. I don’t use a torque wrench anymore, as I’ve found they run cooler when setup by hand. The couple times I’ve followed the torque they have much more drag and are HOT running.

I’m also not a fan of the grease zerk and generally forget its there. It’s a marketing gimmick, and even the owners manual for my axles says it doesn’t replace the 12mo/12K manual packing, or extend it.


Unfortunately I’m going to have to replace my brakes now. They have a little more than the minimum shoe thickness, so I adjusted them and they are still very weak. So I guess they are just done. New brakes are on the way. These ones lasted ~19K miles with many of those being on dirt and mountain roads.

 

[RVTRKN]

With a 2015 5ver, what causes you to want to go through the bearings, With an Arctic Fox 5ver using dexter axles they should be good to go? I have bearing buddies on my boat trailer which uses the same theory as easy lube axles. However its by design to grease the bearing buddies for a positive pressure within the bearing to prevent water from entering the assembly when submerged. I know because I just replaced all bearings on the Boat trailer, because I didn't allways do what is recommended and found rough bearings in all four due to pitting from rust. BUT once you go through your bearings on trailer axles that don't get submerged, its not needed. The easy axle lube is a gimmick, because if your bearings are greased and set properly, no maintenace should be required except to go through the bearings again when needed. I would use the recommended grease as posted, pick your brand, pack them properly and using the method of torque them to ______ and back off of them. Slightly tighten them backing off until a little play exsists in the bearings. (I was taught this years ago) TDR member JR has the official method, and I would go by that if your a novice at DIY axles.

 

[EDankievitch]

ED, Is the hub nut even finger loose after 1/8 turn?
On standard hubs and EZ Lubes Dexter says loosen after initial torque of 50 ft lbs (without moving the hub) then tighten by hand and back off to the first castellation spot to get the cotter key through. NeverLube is different.
I could definitely see more bearing failures due to looseness than over tightening, people equate over tightening to overheating but don't think about the consequences of being loose.
I know there are alot of different methods to get to the same general set point but I have always followed Dexters recommendation to the T, down to the 50 ft lb torque while spinning the hub. Lots of people just set initial preload by feel and don't have any problems, that's ok too. One of many things I'm just anal about .

The nut is snug. sometime you can turn it by hand but most it's just snug enough to not be able to turn it. I've never had a hub run hot or even warm doing it this way. Bearing buddys work well just don't over grease them I've seen where the wheel seal was blown out of the hub by over greasing. You want to fill them when cold and stop when you see the piston just start to move.
I'd like to give those turbo lube hubs a try. They have a clear cap that threads into the hub and use 90 wt gear lube. easy to see the lube level and if it's contaminated or not.

 

[AH64ID]

I’ve often thought about switching to oil bath hubs, but one bad seal and you’re in a whole new world of hurt.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I bought QUALITY National Oil Bath seals for my MobileSuites and will be changing over in a couple months.

 

[NIsaacs]

Oil bath equal this:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ooseneck-dump-time.256769/page-7#post-2556458

 

[AH64ID]

Oil bath equal this:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ooseneck-dump-time.256769/page-7#post-2556458

Exactly what I am afraid of.

I think a regularly used trailer might benefit, but not my TT.

 

[RVTRKN]

ringneck, why are you going through bearings on a newer 5ver?

 

[AH64ID]

ringneck, why are you going through bearings on a newer 5ver?

It’s 4 years old, why shouldn’t he be going thru them?

It’s supposed to be an 6K/12mo inspection per the 2015 Artic Fox manual.

He bought it used, so he probably doesn’t know the service history.

 

[RVTRKN]

Because it might not be needed, 4 years on a 5ver doesn't mean its required.

 

[AH64ID]

Because it might not be needed, 4 years on a 5ver doesn't mean its required.

He bought it used. Only way to know is to pull them apart and inspect, so may as well get 4 seals and service them.

 

[RVTRKN]

Unibearings go 100K+, mine are at 75K, and never get serviced. Dodge requires your diff's get serviced every 15K miles, do you service them every 15K miles?

 

[RVTRKN]

I agree with that, but there must have been some reason for the OP to want to. If its because he just wanted peace of mind, that is a good enough reason for me.

He bought it used. Only way to know is to pull them apart and inspect, so may as well get 4 seals and service them.

 

[NIsaacs]

Unibearings go 100K+, mine are at 75K, and never get serviced.

I agree, if that were what the OP had, but he stated easy lube axles. The uni-bearing/never lube are like our unit bearings on the front of 4x4's, not serviced.

 

[RVTRKN]

Thats the comparison I was referring to. There should be no reason to go through axle bearings as a recommed service interval. If the bearings are installed correctly, with the proper grease and packed correctly, they should go a long time.

I agree, if that were what the OP had, but he stated easy lube axles. The uni-bearing/never lube are like our unit bearings on the front of 4x4's, not serviced.

 

[AH64ID]

Unibearings go 100K+, mine are at 75K, and never get serviced. Dodge requires your diff's get serviced every 15K miles, do you service them every 15K miles?

He doesn't have unibearings, so that info is mute to this conversation.

Under the severe maintenance schedule, with OEM fluid, yes I would change it every 15K miles. That's all the OE fluid will go in my '18, then it's Amsoil SVG every 50K.

If the Ram engineers think it takes 6 changes to get to the 100K mile on their warranty under severe use then I'm not going to ignore that. My '18 is up to 20K mile changes for severe use on the gear lube. Not sure when it increased.

Just like with trailer bearings, they live a harder life than vehicle wheel bearings due to all the side load while turning tight, and their smaller size. The wheel bearings on my 5,200 lb axles are 1/2 the size of the wheel bearings on the Yukon spin free kit I had on my '05, which also had a 5,200 lb rating. Nothing special about the Yukon bearings, just plain old Dana 60 bearings.

Thats the comparison I was referring to. There should be no reason to go through axle bearings as a recommed service interval. If the bearings are installed correctly, with the proper grease and packed correctly, they should go a long time.

The owners manual states different. While every year seems excessive, trying to tell a guy to not worry about 4 year old bearings a little silly, IMO. Why talk someone out of preventative maintenance.

Failed wheel bearings is the 2nd main cause of trailer breakdown, behind tires.

 

[EDankievitch]

Why wouldn't you check the wheel bearings?
PEACE OF MIND!
I've had brand new bearings installed wrong right from the factory. If I check them then I know they are right. Last thing I need is a problem on some road far from home. AAA does not help with the trailer just the tow vehicle.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Unibearings go 100K+, mine are at 75K, and never get serviced. Dodge requires your diff's get serviced every 15K miles, do you service them every 15K miles?

On the new trucks if using the OE lube and towing heavy you sure should change the rear at 15k.

 

[RVTRKN]

To each his own, I spent $300.00 every 15K to keep my service agreement intact, to maintain free oil changes that required the differentials be serviced on my 04.5. What a rip off, when I purchased my 07 C&C I did it one time, then went 50K+ miles on that. I just went through them and the oil was clean as a whistle with the gears looking perfect. Warranty can be a sticky wicket, but prove your running at the severe duty.

As far as unibearings are concerned, they go through more stress, due to the inner and outer bearings being closer together, with the leverage from the larger diameter tires being greater, than trailer bearings.

Why wouldn't you check the wheel bearings?
PEACE OF MIND!
I've had brand new bearings installed wrong right from the factory. If I check them then I know they are right. Last thing I need is a problem on some road far from home. AAA does not help with the trailer just the tow vehicle.

I agree with this, and I'm not saying that the OP was over reacting. The question was, why was he going through them? Its a good thing to go through them if you feel the need, it surely would'nt hurt, thats for sure. I don't know why i'm getting the negative response i'm getting. I JUST ASKED THE QUESTION.

 

[DavidC]

Why wouldn't you check the wheel bearings?
PEACE OF MIND!
I've had brand new bearings installed wrong right from the factory. If I check them then I know they are right. Last thing I need is a problem on some road far from home. AAA does not help with the trailer just the tow vehicle.

That's why I have Good Sam ERS. Covers everything. Even had the daughters car flat bedded to the house with no charge when her timing belt let loose.