Here I am

grease bearing

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Tire Questions

Have to put truck on diet

As far as unibearings are concerned, they go through more stress, due to the inner and outer bearings being closer together, with the leverage from the larger diameter tires being greater, than trailer bearings.

Yes more leverage on the outer wheel bearing, but the outer wheel bearing is larger to accommodate for this. Typically sealed bearings use the same size bearing for inner and outer.
 
With a 2015 5ver, what causes you to want to go through the bearings, With an Arctic Fox 5ver using dexter axles they should be good to go? I have bearing buddies on my boat trailer which uses the same theory as easy lube axles.

The key word here is should. Perhaps he read my thread about my '16 Northwood trailer, the same company who makes Arctic Fox. I never pumped any grease into the zerks and the hubs of three wheel had grease in them at 11,000 miles. Actually, a lot sooner than that, I just dealt with the poor braking for a long time.

Bearing buddies are no where near the same as EZ lube. Bearing buddies don't have anywhere for the grease to go when you pump them up other that out of the seals. Grease goes through the outer bearing, fills the hub, through the inner bearing and out the seal. In theory, EZ lube is pushed from the holes in the spindle between the inner bearing and the seal, through the inner bearing, through the hub, through the outer bearing and is expelled around the grease zerk.
 
My 05 AF doesn't have easy lube bearings, nor have I gone through them since I've owned it. I guess all this posting makes me curious. That just means new brakes at the least of it.
 
My 05 AF doesn't have easy lube bearings, nor have I gone through them since I've owned it. I guess all this posting makes me curious. That just means new brakes at the least of it.

Eeeek.

Last time we went thru axles that had gone without maintenance in that many years everything needed replacing. Brakes, breathing’s, hubs... luckily the spindles were good.
 
My boat trailer axles went longer and except for pitted bearings and races, every thing looked OK, including brakes shoes. I'm not worried, last time I had the wheels free spinning, they felt good. Again, you don't need to go through wheel bearings unless something is wrong, or your paranoid.
 
I’m not sure anything is good about pitted bearings and races. That indicates a lack of maintenance.

They are the main thing, so no, everything would not be OK.
 
I have used this for MANY years.

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I’m not sure anything is good about pitted bearings and races. That indicates a lack of maintenance.

They are the main thing, so no, everything would not be OK.

The key word is BOAT trailer, you completely submerge the tires and axles. As I admitted, I wasn’t adding grease before I launched the boat, keeping a positive pressure within the bearings. With that abuse they still managed to go for a few years. SOOO let’s go back to bearings that are not submerged and properly greased and packed. :eek:
 
Also consider adding a brake inspection to this task. Making sure everything is OK, a bit of lube here and there and finally checking adjustment. Which BTW I bet they are not correctly adjusted. IR temp gun is a go to tool for me with brake questions.
 
I don't know if I want to read these posts anymore. I've been driving my 3500 as a daily driver lately, because at 75K miles as an 07, it just sits. After these posts, I stated to hear squealing as I turned left and then a clicking noise. I now suspect my unibearings are toast, even if it turns out to be brakes, I'm probably going to have Dyna Trac hubs installed, and get a serviceable setup as well better functioning hubs. I'll post my inspection results later.

On edit: I will be searching for the best grease for the Dyna Trac hubs, unless Dyna Trac recommends a specific grease.
 
I know mixing greases is a hot potato subject, but in case anyone was wondering about Red Line CV2 Grease, I emailed to be sure it was compatible with the lithium complex grease in my trailer's(Lippert axles)wheel bearings, and Dave answered:

Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, the CV-2 is a calcium sulphonate base and is compatible with a lithium complex base grease.

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can you use disk brake grease on bearings

As long as you are talking about wheel bearing grease - yes!

There is a disc brake caliper lube - sometimes referred to as "grease" and NO you can't. Here is an example of what I mean:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-241..._B000HBNV6W/?tag=tdr1-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345016096640&psc=1
 
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As long as you are talking about wheel bearing grease - yes!

There is a disc brake caliper lube - sometimes referred to as "grease" and NO you can't. Here is an example of what I mean:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-241..._B000HBNV6W/?tag=tdr1-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345016096640&psc=1
Me gots to do that service next on son's 2nd gen and the MH.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As long as you are talking about wheel bearing grease - yes!

There is a disc brake caliper lube - sometimes referred to as "grease" and NO you can't. Here is an example of what I mean:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-241..._B000HBNV6W/?tag=tdr1-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345016096640&psc=1



Sooo....what is caliper grease really made of?
I've always used anti sieze, nickel grade. It seems to have good qualities - high temp rating, resistance to water wash off. The specific brand i use has a zero friction coefficient. Many do not.
 
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I don't know if I want to read these posts anymore. I've been driving my 3500 as a daily driver lately, because at 75K miles as an 07, it just sits. After these posts, I stated to hear squealing as I turned left and then a clicking noise. I now suspect my unibearings are toast, even if it turns out to be brakes, I'm probably going to have Dyna Trac hubs installed, and get a serviceable setup as well better functioning hubs. I'll post my inspection results later.

On edit: I will be searching for the best grease for the Dyna Trac hubs, unless Dyna Trac recommends a specific grease.
Excessive play in the passenger side wheel/tire confirms the uni-bearings are toast. I will be getting Dynatrac front hubs. What are my other choices for locking hubs?
 
Sooo....what is caliper grease really made of?
I've always used anti sieze, nickel grade. It seems to have good qualities - high temp rating, resistance to water wash off. The specific brand i use has a zero friction coefficient. Many do not.

No idea what it is made of. Haven't bought that stuff in years. I did buy some of it at one time to try on caliper pins to see if that would last better than other stuff in preventing them from seizing/sticking - was worse. For pins I've normally used this:
https://www.amazon.com/AGS-BK4-Brak..._B000CIHTPE/?tag=tdr1-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584276296418004&psc=1

And I've used the tin man making anti seize on exposed parts. Guess I could try that stuff on the caliper pins too - never really thought of that before.

I've also used anti seize or grease on the caliper pin area, between a rubber boot and the metal caliper to try and prevent rust from forming that eventually pinches the caliper pin slide area - very common on GM style calipers.
 
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