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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Grid heater fix

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WierCummin grid heater fix update:



Perfection in function, had the truck in 19F and no problems, ran better than ever. Normal grid heater function is to cycle grid A and grid B until certain conditions are met. Problem is that it wears on the battery and alternator. Grid heaters are needed only to start the truck (cold) and the theory is that DC and Ford (glowplugs) cycle the grid heaters after engine start to reduce emissions. No more dimming lights or dipping voltmeter as the 50A heaters cycle needlessly. Now they only come on until the engine starts. Life is good! Thanks Dean!!
 
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Not to be repetative but I would certainly be interested in this fix! The weather is already starting to take its toll here in upstate NY.

If you don't mind send me an e-mail at -- email address removed --

Thanks... ...
 
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I'd like to know how too. Everything gets run down when the grid heater is going... . including the Lift Pump... . fuel pressure drops to around 7 when that thing is running...
 
Just got back from the LSTDR '02 rally, had a great time. Thanks to all that attended and to the ones that coordinated it. Let me get settled in and I'll give ya'll the pressure switch PN and how to wire it up.



Dean
 
TTT

Ya'll be patient, I've got even a simpler idea for ya. One wire, one $5. 00 switch. It will still work the same and should be idiot proof to install, well for most idiots :rolleyes:



I just want to make sure it works.

Dean
 
disable relay

This could be accomplished by shifting the truck into gear by the park/neutral switch. It could disable the relay when in gear and would be reactivated by shifting to p or n. If you would like more information we'll get the information from shop-key
 
Simple

Here is what I've come up with for ya'll and it may not be for everyone. First off, I don't want to take anything away from Gordon @ Practical Solutions as he has a great product.



If any of you can't live with the codes being stored in the ECM/PCM don't bother with this fix. When changing the control circuit, the ECM detects a lack of current draw and will set codes



P0380 Intake air heater relay #1 control circuit

P0382 Intake air heater relay #2 control circuit



Neither of these two codes bring on the MIL-check engine light, or should I say it hasn't in the trucks that we have done it to.



You need a pressure switch, what I found for ya'll is a Borg Warner S320 oil pressure switch. This is a single spade normally closed (N. C. ) open on rise pressure switch. Install the switch at the plugged pressure port on top of the oil filter/cooler assembly, both the switch & port are 1/8"NPT. I would use some ultra copper sealant on the threads to insure good current flow, as teflon tape can act as a insulator. Now disconnect both of the ground wires from the grid heater solenoids, they should be the black/tan wires. Run a wire from the pressure switch to both of the poles on the solenoids, and your done.



How it works

You will only have a complete control circuit when the engine is not running and there is no oil pressure. Once you start the engine and pressure comes up, the control circuit is broken.



Dean
 
Dean,

Do you see any problem just installing a switch to do the same thing?? I know you would have to remember to turn it on and off but it would do the same thing.



John aka JR2
 
John,

yes you can do the same thing with a switch, you could even use a SPDT switch and have the ability to let the ECM cycle the grid heaters or just not have them come on at all. I opted to use the pressure switch under the hood because of the one wire simplicity and I already have too many wires :eek: running into the cab for the VGT monitoring and controls.



Truckstorm, that would work.
 
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