Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Guages in, immediatly found wastegate problem

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff
Status
Not open for further replies.
Well, I insatlled a pyrometer and boost guage in my '02 this weekend and on my first run to test them I found that I had no boost until I really got on it and then all I had was 8-10 lbs. EGT's would shoot way up (I stopped at 1300 and could EASILY have gone higher) in fact the pyro needle could move like a tach. I went home and began checking for a boost leak. I started with the wastgate and saw that the actuator was not hooked to the wastgate, I could move the wastegate lever very easily so I knew it was not stuck. I could not get the actuator rod to connect to the wastegate lever, it was about 3/16" too short. I removed it to unthread the rod but it would not budge so I put it back on and turnbuckled it closed. Now I could over 25lbs boost (I stopped there) and EGT's stay 800-1000 when really pushing it uphill. Now the truck has power! (I thought it was gutless because of the auto transmission!) The rod on the wastegate looks like it has been off a while as the inside of the bolt hole where it attaches to the wastegate it corroded the same as the rest of the rod.

Now my question: could there be any long term engine damage from all the times I was high EGT's ( before the guage)? I live in the mountains and most of the time I had to drive with the O/D off and engine at 2600+ RPM to get over the passes. I can't imagine how high the EGT's were! Now I can go over the same passes in O/D AND accelerate. No more bogging down and smoking. So what kind of damage could have been done?

Thanks.



BTW only had the truck 10 months and now has 78,000 miles on it.
 
Thanks for the replies. If I look in the cylinders, what would I look for?



It is a stock turbo, but what is 'tanned'? (pardon my ignorance)



And yes is is running well, really well. It no longer bogs down in overdrive and I can really hear the turbo now :)
 
Does the turbo look gray or does it have a golden(tanned) yellow color on the compressor housing? If it is tanned, it has seen some heat. The trucks that frequently tow heavy tend to have a tanned tint to the compressor housing.



Dan
 
Sorry to ask, but my compressor is pretty darn tan, But I have never had the pyro over 1275*???? You think there is some damage???? And I've never held it over 1175* for extended pulling.
 
Tcolesanti said:
Sorry to ask, but my compressor is pretty darn tan, But I have never had the pyro over 1275*???? You think there is some damage???? And I've never held it over 1175* for extended pulling.
If they have any miles on them at all, the only B-series Cummins I've ever seen without amber-colored compressor housings are mall cruisers. Any of these trucks that get out and work will have amber turbo compressor housings. See my signature for what my truck spends 90% of its life towing. Don't worry about it.



Rusty
 
A friend of mine (Former (?) TDR member Waterrattler) had an 01 Cummins/auto and had the wastegate linkage come off also. After limping into the dealer they examined the post on the wastegate actuator and found no evidence that a clip had ever been installed from the factory.
 
dodgenstein said:
A friend of mine (Former (?) TDR member Waterrattler) had an 01 Cummins/auto and had the wastegate linkage come off also. After limping into the dealer they examined the post on the wastegate actuator and found no evidence that a clip had ever been installed from the factory.



That sounds like mine. It doesn't look like anything's been there.
 
If you want to reconnect the pushrod, you need to use compressed air to push the diaphram that the rod is connected to. WIth air on the line you will be able to slip the rod back on the pin and then put the C clip on. Done it many times to my original wastegate actuater when trying to adjust boost.

john
 
Thanks John. I was thinking that maybe the actuator was siezed, but I will do the air thing this weekend. Do you just stisk the air nozzel on the elbow?
 
You can do it a number of ways, just make sure you apply the air to the actuator input. I used a piece of rubber hose that I slipped the nozzle into. It is a little ackward since you have to hold the air line with one hand and slip the rod over the pin with other at the same time. Once the rod is on the pin, it won't fall back off and you'll have time to put the "C" clip on.

John
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top