Gulf Coast Bypass Filter guts...

[steved]

Nothing wrong with that at all.



Remember when we used to have the oil pans on our older trucks "deepened" by adding a couple inches to the bottom just for that reason. More oil capacity = more everything capacity.

I feel glad we even have an oil filter... I have a 251 that was designed before oil filters were considered norm.



steved

 

[PRout]

I feel glad we even have an oil filter... I have a 251 that was designed before oil filters were considered norm.

steved

Thats pretty neat...

Yeah, I agree with Gary that this GC Bypass thing is making us kinda jealous. . Id kind of like to have one just for that purpose alone. (Extra oil capacity. ) But it would move me away from the keeping it simple theme that Im trying to get back to. .

Nice setup for sure, and the OA really shows it. Im thinking about maybe even going smaller than the #57 drill on mine and probably going to try the "trickle" factor next and see what happens. .

 

[PRout]

Think what I'll try is adding an adjustable needle valve in series with the 1/16" restrictor orifice. Seems like that would be an easier way to tweak with flow rates. . Now just need to find an appropriate valve. .

 

[steved]

Think what I'll try is adding an adjustable needle valve in series with the 1/16" restrictor orifice. Seems like that would be an easier way to tweak with flow rates. . Now just need to find an appropriate valve. .

That's a good idea to leave the restriction in place with the needle valve... I don't know if it would happen, but I have seen needle valves vibrate open before allowing full flow.



steved

 

[PRout]

Was thinking the same thing. . Safety First! ha. .

 

[PRout]

Ok, added the needle valve in series with the 1/16 restrictor. Changed the oil, oem filter, frantz element, and added a quick release oil drain (we'll see if that gets to stay or not). Mileage for the record is 151,745.

Set the flow rate down to a trickle (about 8 oz. per minute at idle max).

Will take a sample at 5k miles and post the report. Got a trip coming this weekend so the timing is goooood.

Not going to change the oil until it is dirty per the OA or probably next summer. If this slow flow doesnt help, may cut flow in half and compare. If that doesnt do it, it'll be time to open up the valve a little. . Nice to have though. Cost 4. 50 at Graingers.

 

[steved]

Set the flow rate down to a trickle (about 8 oz. per minute at idle max).

I can't remember what my flow rate is anymore... around 0. 5 quart/minute??



I'm going the same way... not changing the oil unless the UOA indicates I should. Changing 33% of the oil every 10k should keep the additives strong.



steved

 

[PRout]

Agreed, why waste the money on oil changes. . Better to waste it on oil analysis'. .

Anyways it tells us a lot about what condition our engines are in, and how much stress they will handle.

Keeps us outta trouble too. . Thats always good for a few extra points...

 

[steved]

Agreed, why waste the money on oil changes. . Better to waste it on oil analysis'. .



Anyways it tells us a lot about what condition our engines are in, and how much stress they will handle.



Keeps us outta trouble too. . Thats always good for a few extra points...

What I'm shooting for is to find a "schedule" that works... something like 50k with 10k FCIs, then a complete change, 50k with 10k FCIs, then a complete change, etc, etc...



I don't intend to do UOAs forever... once I find a schedule that works with this setup, then I'll just wing it.





steved

 

[PRout]

There ya go... Sounds like a comfortable routine.

I was thinking change the TP roll twice or "thrice" a year if needed and change the oil every summer.

Either way, it looks like we're looking at less wear by keeping most of the "nasty" sized soot & foreign particles to a minimum.

 

[steved]

I know it was neat to see the oil go from black (a loose fit element) to clearer (drive out west), then to black (mountains), then back to clear (trip back home) on this last trip... really shows the filter is working.



As long as it continues to work... and if you need me to, I can always find the flow rate of my setup so you have a baseline...



I have considered leaving the OCI and FCI to 20k... I'm not sure we load the oil as bad as an OTR truck, and that's what they based the 10k FCI for the GCF.



On a side note, I was reading some stuff I copied from the net last night... they figure that in 15k miles of use, the oil loads with a little over 8 ounces of soot!!!! I found that number amazing... I never thought there would be a measurable amount of soot actually in the oil!! Half a pound of soot in the oil!! No wonder my GCF element felt extremely heavy!!



steved

 

[05mxdiesel]

Looks like someone needs to do a weight test to figure out the weight of soot and other particles in the oil system. Weigh the used filter, versus a pulled fresh filter saturated in oil. I'm sure the differance is there.



I am with you on not doing uoa's all the time but once year or so just to check on things. They can get expensive, I am uoa'ing the wifes car, two bikes and the truck. The truck and wife's car I am just trying to find a suitable oci for them, the bikes I will continue to uoa them because of the extreme service they run under.

 

[PRout]

Right...

Well, I guess its just kind of interesting to see the differences in setups, intervals, flow rates, etc. . Yeah, have definitely spent more in OA's than just changing out oil & oem filters on a regular basis.

That soot fact (8oz in 15k) could maybe be believable on an OTR truck on average. I did notice a significant difference in the color change time when going down in injector size.

Although, when running two filters in series I got better overall oa numbers. Not sure if that's because the flow was slower, or there was more element area to hold the soot or maybe both.

Have a feeling that Gulf Coast with all that element area and low trickle rate has to be cleaning the oil VERY well (as shown in the oa).

Will see how the smaller frantz works with an even slower rate of flow. Not sure where the balance point will be to where there is more soot being induced into the oil than the filtering rate will be able to keep up.

It was helpful to know the . 5 quart per minute rate as a starting point.

I figure I'll experiment with different (slower) rates with the variable needle valve, then after finding what works best, will replace the less reliable needle valve with a solid restrictor w/ the right sized orifice to maintain that flow.

Hey, it's all in fun. .

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Will see how the smaller frantz works with an even slower rate of flow. Not sure where the balance point will be to where there is more soot being induced into the oil than the filtering rate will be able to keep up.

YUP, that's the trick for sure! :-laf



On top of that, is the variations created by different driving situations - steady-state freeway driving would probably require relatively LOW flow rates due to less soot generation - but short haul around town, or heavily loaded stop and go, will generate LOTS more soot and need a higher flow rate to keep up.



The idea of an adjustable valve for different situations might be a good thing - or else just another dern gadget to keep track of! :-laf:-laf

 

[PRout]

Thats it. . Well. .

Following-up. . No science here, but just got back from a trip of about 750 miles (no trailer). The oil looks pretty clean. No problem seeing through it and reading the dipstick. Maybe about the color of iced tea if that does anything for ya (not sure which brand of tea it is, but definitely not green tea ). Actually, not bad is about all I can say. At least its not looking dirty at all and the bypass is definitely doing something. .

Also, just by doing the touch test on the filter, its plenty hot, so we know its circulating. Time will tell. . Will just have to run the 5k and take a sample.

No reply expected, just passing the info along that so far this flow rate has not "seemed" to hamper the filters ability to clean on an 80/20 hwy/city trip.

Added: Posted by Gary: "The idea of an adjustable valve for different situations might be a good thing - or else just another dern gadget to keep track of!" Agreed. Its something else to go wrong in the long run. (and we all know the oil circulatory system is not something to be taken lightly) The adjustable valve is for experiment only (as you probably already know) and will someday replace it with an orifice that allows as close to the chosen flow as possible.

 

[steved]

Glad to hear its working!



I think the main thing that makes a bypass filter work the best is figuring out its ideal flow rate... a rate the circulates the oil in the sump fast enough to clean the entire volume, but yet slow enough to allow enough residence time in the filter for the particles to get caught...



Your "adjustable" orifice is perfect for finding that balance...



steved

 

[PRout]

Agreed - Thanks

Here's what it looks like at 750 miles. .

Link to hi-res pic of what is shown below:
http://66. 214. 238. 173:13200/Truck%20Pics/Oil_Analysis/oil_at_750_miles_8oz_min_frantz_element.jpg

In case it helps anyone, this is the valve I used.
Grainger Industrial Supply: Valve,Needle,1/8 In 6MN31

Note: The high reading on the stick is due to some oil moving up the stick while trying to get decent positioning for taking the pic, and also some is what has drained back down from the frantz overnight.

 

[steved]

Agreed - Thanks



Here's what it looks like at 750 miles. .



Link to hi-res pic of what is shown below:

http://66. 214. 238. 173:13200/Truck%20Pics/Oil_Analysis/oil_at_750_miles_8oz_min_frantz_element.jpg



In case it helps anyone, this is the valve I used.

Grainger Industrial Supply: Valve,Needle,1/8 In 6MN31



Note: The high reading on the stick is due to some oil moving up the stick while trying to get decent positioning for taking the pic, and also some is what has drained back down from the frantz overnight.

WOW! That's working good... you have Gary's results!



Mine only looks that way for around 1500 miles... these later 3rd gens add a a lot of black. But considering it was black almost as soon as the key was turn on fresh oil, I feel its working.



steved

 

[PRout]

Yeah, I was getting pretty dern jealous of Gary's results. .

Well, still kinda skeptical because this was sort of a distance trip without towing so, we will see how it looks at 1500 after mostly regular city driving. Did have to keep the speed up (higher than usual - 72), A/C on and pulled some good long grades though.

This is about the cleanest I've seen it stay at this point as far as i can remember which may be a good sign.

Your oa has already validated your setup and again, that extra capacity is a significant bonus imo. Probably over "equalized" that 3rd gen thing. .

For the record this oil is the new Delo formulation 15w40. (not sure to gag or not yet) Used paper rolls purchased from Frantz this time with no added paper or o-rings except. . Used Gary's trick of taking two (still connected to each other) sheets of blue shop towels. folded them lengthwise into thirds and sorta wrapped the top (edge to be inserted into the canister) with about half of the extra shop towel's width leaving the other half of the towel to sorta help fill the thin top space of the canister. (if that makes any sense).

Another factor is probably the fuel. This trip consisted of about 50% B99 biodiesel and 50% ULSD. . Probably less soot being generated than a year ago.

Will report back at 1500 miles.

 

[steved]

Yeah, I was getting pretty dern jealous of Gary's results. .



For the record this oil is the new Delo formulation 15w40. (not sure to gag or not yet)



Will report back at 1500 miles.

I think Gary might be jealous of you!



And for the record, the UOA of mine was CJ-4 Rotella... it looks good.



steved