Gulf Coast Bypass Filter guts...

[PRout]

I think Gary might be jealous of you!

And for the record, the UOA of mine was CJ-4 Rotella... it looks good.

steved

That autta stir him up a bit. But he's probably busy building and documenting his hydromagnetodynamicantigravity filtering system as we type. .

 

[steved]

That autta stir him up a bit. But he's probably busy building and documenting his hydromagnetodynamicantigravity filtering system as we type. .

He probably is buying a pair of Gulf Coast 0-2s as we speak... :-laf



steved

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

For the record this oil is the new Delo formulation 15w40. (not sure to gag or not yet) Used paper rolls purchased from Frantz this time with no added paper or o-rings except. . Used Gary's trick of taking two (still connected to each other) sheets of blue shop towels. folded them lengthwise into thirds and sorta wrapped the top (edge to be inserted into the canister) with about half of the extra shop towel's width leaving the other half of the towel to sorta help fill the thin top space of the canister. (if that makes any sense).

(SIGH!)



That's what I get for being "Mr. Nice Guy", and sharing MOST of my deepest bypass oil filtration secrets! :-laf:-laf:-laf

That autta stir him up a bit. But he's probably busy building and documenting his hydromagnetodynamicantigravity filtering system as we type. .

Hey guys, I need some help - I have installed this neat pair of garbage-can sized bypass filters in the bed of my truck, but now have no room for my 5th wheel hitch - I'll have the cleanest oil on the west coast - but can't HAUL anything with my truck... :{:-laf

 

[PRout]

(SIGH!)

That's what I get for being "Mr. Nice Guy", and sharing MOST of my deepest bypass oil filtration secrets! :-laf:-laf:-laf



Hey guys, I need some help - I have installed this neat pair of garbage-can sized bypass filters in the bed of my truck, but now have no room for my 5th wheel hitch - I'll have the cleanest oil on the west coast - but can't HAUL anything with my truck... :{:-laf

:-laf:-laf
That's sounding all too familiar lately. . Just minor details anyways. I'm sure Bob can have a special SW made up for that problem too .

 

[JVantreese]

I have ordered a used GCF from the Ebay sight and plan on getting the needle valve from Granger. It looks like my return line can be attached to the oil pad or to a modified fill cap on the valve cover. Does anyone know of a source for the valve cover cap? I also need help on the best place to pick up the pressure line. Any input will be appreciated.

 

[steved]

I have ordered a used GCF from the Ebay sight and plan on getting the needle valve from Granger. It looks like my return line can be attached to the oil pad or to a modified fill cap on the valve cover. Does anyone know of a source for the valve cover cap? I also need help on the best place to pick up the pressure line. Any input will be appreciated.

Read this... should answer every question you have...



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...my-frantz-toilet-paper-bypass-oil-filter.html





steved

 

[steved]

Well, some findings...



I am one that worried about getting the roll snug in the housing... and that might hold true for TP, but it causes channeling in paper towels. I got mine pretty tight... tight enough that you really had to force them into the housing (it is a long deep housing), but I recently had an occasion to pull the new element out of the housing after only a few thousand miles... it was channeled from being too tight. Being pressed for time, I used one of the GCF elements I purchased and it fit snug, not tight, but snug... so now I have a guide.



Secondly... the GCF is working well... got another analysis back on Rotella CJ-4 which, not stellar, only had soot at 0. 3%... I had really abused the oil towing in the Rockies, and combined with what must have been retarded timing, literally cooked the oil. That fill was ok for continued use, but I dumped it anyway since it had thickened up slightly and winter was upon us.



steved

 

[JVantreese]

Hay Steved, glad to hear good news on the oil test. I got the Gulf Coast by pass installed and it seems to work find. I am planning on changing both filters every 10K and adding the the 7 quarts of make up oil. I purchased enough Rotella 5w40 CI to get me down the road about 150K with this type of change.



I have never sent my oil in for analisis but know I should. Who do you use and what is the cost.



Thanks for the help.

 

[steved]

Hay Steved, glad to hear good news on the oil test. I got the Gulf Coast by pass installed and it seems to work find. I am planning on changing both filters every 10K and adding the the 7 quarts of make up oil. I purchased enough Rotella 5w40 CI to get me down the road about 150K with this type of change.



I have never sent my oil in for analisis but know I should. Who do you use and what is the cost.



Thanks for the help.

I use Blackstone... IIRC, they are $22. 50 for the metals, and $10 more for TBN. I'm sure there are cheaper one's... look for a cat dealer in your area.



I got 30k on the oil before I drained it (changing the full-flow every 20k and the GCF every 10k)... an as you can see in the above UOA, it was fit for continued use; but I felt the increased viscosity would be detrimental for cold winter starts. The towing I did in September put a hurtin on my oil... I feel if I had not done that towing, I'd be comfortable using the oil further.



steved

 

[PRout]

Alright, Bringing this one back up due to the fact that I just returned from watching the Monte Carlo get a singe on top. Yep, back from Vegas (this trip was about 750 miles - no trailer, climbed a few mountain passes and fought some nasty headwinds and started with 100 gals of fuel so the engine did a "little" work)

Upon returning and refilling the tanks I checked the oil level and was very happily SURPRISED to still be able to read the stick through the oil after 3569 miles on this oil. Haven't replaced a filter or added any makeup oil at all. This is the same oil that was put in the engine ref'd back in post #66 of this thread. The mileage at that point was 151,745. Now as shown in the pic below, the truck is at 155,314 hence the 3569 miles on the oil (odo is cal'd to the GPS. so its close enough for u know who).

Had to grab the cam and take some shots of this. . (at the gas station). Sorry the lighting and whole photo set up is bad, so took a pic without a flash, then took one with the flash (since its overcast here in Calif due to rain) Waah Waah I know... Oh, and the oil was at the full mark in real life, just some had run down the stick while trying to get it laid out for its photo op.

Nothing scientific, no oil analysis, just a down & dirty visual. For my experience with this truck, the oil used to be close to black after 1500-2000 miles (and still show decent particle counts then), so all i hope now is this new Delo formulation isnt letting the soot sit somewhere so we cant see it on the stick. .

Bottom line. . It appears so far a single Frantz filter with a slowed down flow rate, using Gary's shop towel trick locking in the factory supplied TP rolls might be a hot ticket. There are lots of factors at play here, but at least I like "seeing" the clean looking oil anyways. It gives me more confidence the oil analysis & particle counts should come out decent when it reaches the 5000 mile mark. We will see. .

Link to the same, but high-res pics:
http://75.140.70.182:13200/Truck Pics/Oil_Analysis/

The Pics:




.

 

[steved]

Looking good!



Mine doesn't stay quite that clean, but at least the oil is still "clear" if you know what I mean...



Looks like you found what works for you... and those pictures really show the bypass works (I'm sure Gary will be here in a minute showing his favorite picture too... :-laf).



I doubt you'll have problems with the newer oil; IIRC, one of the things they were supposed to address was improved soot handling. Looking forward to the UOA, as I have not seen too many on the new Delo LE oils...



steved

 

[JCasper]

Dang, I wish my oil looked like that

 

[steved]

Well, some findings...



Secondly... the GCF is working well... got another analysis back on Rotella CJ-4 which, not stellar, only had soot at 0. 3%... I had really abused the oil towing in the Rockies, and combined with what must have been retarded timing, literally cooked the oil. That fill was ok for continued use, but I dumped it anyway since it had thickened up slightly and winter was upon us.



steved

After re-reading this, I just wanted to note that in hind site, it was probably a failing injector that was causing the oil to look worse than previous runs... lost that injector end of December...



Blackstone also indicated that the towing was what caused the increase in wear metals and that there was nothing wrong with the oil (stating it should clear up on its own without changing it)...



I'm very happy with the Rotella CJ-4, it seems to be no worse than the CI-4+ it replaced. The Rotella, combined with a bypass, seems to allow lengthened OCIs... I'm going to go a full 10k on this fill, sample, and probably continue with 10k OCIs without UOAs if the next one looks good. However, I am struggling with the notion I may switch to Rotella 5w40 sometime, but I have 10 gallons of CJ-4 sitting at home.



steved

 

[PRout]

Dang, I wish my oil looked like that

Its not hard to do. It has just taken a while to find the combos that work best. Deciding on where to run the return oil from the filter can be interesting. When I installed the frantz on this truck back in 2000, I ended up tapping the oil pan and returning oil there. If I was installing it new today, would probably install a fitting on the valve cover towards the rear in a convenient to reach location, but still out of the way of things, and return the oil to the top of the engine.

Now that it looks like the oil will last a while and if the analysis will stay good to the 15k mile point, will probably go back to using Amsoil synthetic, or at least a 50-50 blend of Amsoil and Delo 400. The only problem with that is synthetic wont burn after you dump it like regular dino oil will. Have been burning the used oil as fuel in the past. (after re-cleaning it with another frantz filter in the fuel line from the auxilary tank of course ).

Steve, glad you got the injector problem straightened out. . Also good to be reading that the newer blended oils seem to be not bad after all. Time to mount dual Gulf Coasts (one along each side of the cab) like big rig fuel tanks. Could have a step welded on them. Who needs nerf bars.

 

[ThrottleJockey]

Time to mount dual Gulf Coasts (one along each side of the cab) like big rig fuel tanks. Could have a step welded on them. Who needs nerf bars.



That would be cool. Big ol'e filters all chromed out with steps on 'em.

 

[steved]

Since my photos somehow got deleted, I'll post them up again...



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And the latest UOA... I decided to sample early since I had just gotten the oil changed when I lost that injector... 6k miles later, I worry about it...



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You can see how the levels dropped from the previous towing and just prior to the loss of that injector... you can really see it starting to let go.

 

[PRout]

Nice report. Its good to see the lead back down there. .

 

[PRout]

Guess what I just acquired?? A "Brand New Gulf Coast 0-1 unit". . Hmmm wonder if it'll fit under the shortbed. .

Well, no matter there - Will make it fit. .

Was thinking of plumbing it in series with the frantz, so that the Gulf Coast does the primary cleaning and sends the pre-cleaned oil to the frantz for the final "polishing" (hehe), then back to the motor.

Will prolly continue to use the 1/16 restrictor orifice and needle valve to adjust flow rates down to the slow trickle through the frantz as before.

That is unless some of you guru's come up with better ideas. . ; ) (and no, you can't have it. . That's not the type of better ideas i'm talking about :-laf)

 

[steved]

I took the 3/8" NPT to 1/4" hose fitting for the inlet and tapped the inside of the 3/8" NPT for a 1/4" NPT plug. I then drilled the plug out to either a #57 or #56 wire drill. Flows around 1 quart minute/hot idle.



I know a lot of guys had talked of using a Frantz behind a Amsoil filter, and I know a couple guys running two or three Frantz filters in parallel. You'd be the first GCF/Frantz!



Be prepared to wait a couple minutes to get oil flow once installed... they take a long time to fill. 1/4" hydraulic hose seems to supply more than ample volume.

 

[PRout]

Thanks for the input Steve. . I wasn't sure how that was going to work out (replacing oil after a change), but was thinking it would be an "add some, run it a minute & check it till it doesn't creep down the stick" process. This is sort of redundant, but am planning to plumb the GC before the Frantz, but the restrictor then the needle valve are both at the tap-off from the engine so they will be in front of both filters. Will check flow rate at the return to the engine. Have learned with the needle valve that a flow rate of about 8oz per minute (hot idle - with a frantz) seems to work pretty well. Will shoot for that rate after the install and report back after seeing the results. . Maybe with the #57 drill hole and having two filters in series, flow rate might be close to my target, or somewhere in between yours & mine which should be "perfect". Then could remove the needle valve, but then again maybe it would be good to keep it in place as a shut off valve in case of a problem. .

I like your idea of having the extra oil capacity (even though it isn't all available for use by the engine at once), but nevertheless it is extra capacity, some, not much of it may be usable for cooling, but all of it is available for more additive life, more sub-micron soot holding, more filtering capability and hopefully, will make it possible to go further in between Frantz TP roll changes as well.

Hey, looks good on paper anyways. .