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H2 wheel...How much to machine?

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H2 are top dollar now with all the publicity they got.



The last set i've seen (last week) went for $1800+$150 for shipping.



sombody said they got a set for $300+ recently here on TDR but those prices are long gone!!! Ive never seen any h2 go for this price! ive been watching for 4 months now.



Im officially given up on H2 wheels and tires. Ive personally called the shops or tracked down evey post in TDR and called every dealer from north of LA and East as far as Yuma, (im in Sothern cal) and haven't found a set of 4 (no spare) for less than $900. There is way to much talk about these on forums for them to be a good deal anymore :(





http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=7944961833&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
 
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JeepinDoug said:
I'm glad to see you have a sense of humor, got a little worried after I posted thinking you might take the wrong way.

:cool:



Don't worry, I take very little personal, especially online stuff ... ... ... ..... you have to mess with my family or my animals to make me mad :D



I do get my panties in a bunch over this holesaw thing though ... ... ..... after all these years of machining, I instantly think boring when a topic like this comes up. Other guys get the "it'll be close enough" attitude and start to cobble stuff up. All I'm really trying to do is to help guys to not ruin a cheap e-bay purchase. It costs about the same either way and there is no future balancing issues later with having it done properly.



There is also the steel vs aluminum issue ... ... ... . may as well use a torch on the steel wheels :{
 
That link is for tires ONLY.



My apologies. I too have been watching the tire and wheel combos and jumped the gun when I saw the pic.



I'm not to sure I'll like chrome h2's (if they ever get here) but they will have Goodyear MTR 305's mounted on them if I decide to re-sell.



I'll post pics by the end of next week. Hopefully. :rolleyes:
 
First off... . big props to Yo Hoot, his H2 tech article is the real deal.

I wouldn't say I followed it to a tee but everything turned out perfect as I went.

I found my H2s (less tires) on eBay for $150 and the guy reamed me on the shipping, his feedback isn't looking as good as the wheels do. The H2s I got have less than a 100 miles on them, allegedly, they do look really good.

For the center cap I set a sharpie on a block and spun the cap against the sharpie to mark the cut zone, all done on a work bench. I used a 4. 5" grinder with a cut-off wheel sitting on blocks so the wheel would cut on the sharpie line. Turned on the grinder and hand turned the cap until the cap's skirt fell down (whoo-hoo).

Next I swapped the cut-off wheel for a 40 grit flapper wheel and sanded the lug nut grabbers down to fit the wheel.

This was so easy it took an hour at most.



Elite1 - Yes, your stock tires will fit fine, that's what I'm using.

EDIT - Here are some pics.

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Full side.

#ad


Here you can see I'm angled out just a bit to see the rear tire, they don't stick out enough to make flares a nessecity.

#ad




VB bulliten's resizing pixilated the pics, just click the link underneath for higher rez.
 
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JeepinDoug said:
First off... . big props to Yo Hoot, his H2 tech article is the real deal.

I wouldn't say I followed it to a tee but everything turned out perfect as I went.

I found my H2s (less tires) on eBay for $150 and the guy reamed me on the shipping, his feedback isn't looking as good as the wheels do. The H2s I got have less than a 100 miles on them, allegedly, they do look really good.

For the center cap I set a sharpie on a block and spun the cap against the sharpie to mark the cut zone, all done on a work bench. I used a 4. 5" grinder with a cut-off wheel sitting on blocks so the wheel would cut on the sharpie line. Turned on the grinder and hand turned the cap until the cap's skirt fell down (whoo-hoo).

Next I swapped the cut-off wheel for a 40 grit flapper wheel and sanded the lug nut grabbers down to fit the wheel.

This was so easy it took an hour at most.



Elite1 - Yes, your stock tires will fit fine, that's what I'm using.

EDIT - Here are some pics.

#ad


Full side.

#ad


Here you can see I'm angled out just a bit to see the rear tire, they don't stick out enough to make flares a nessecity.

#ad




VB bulliten's resizing pixilated the pics, just click the link underneath for higher rez.





Doug



Thanks again Bro for helping me out today. Thanks to Doug I finally got my H2 wheels and tires on my ride. Doug professionally machined my wheels and I had no problems getting them to fit or balanced. I added my own center caps. Let me know what you think? This is my second post and I am very pleased at all the help that is given here.
 
That pic looks like one of those sly eBay pics where you see the guy in the reflection taking the pic... ... ... ... ... ... and then notice he's nekkid!!! :eek:



Awesome Daryle, The center cap looks perfect. It was fun shootin the sh1t with you today and throwing aluminum all over the shop. Looks like they hooked you up with some hidden balance weights too.

The combo looks great.

Doug
 
does anyone know if the hubs on my F350 are about the same size as on the 3rd gen and if the H2 rim would fit on my F350
 
Ok I have read all the discussion on the lug centric vs hub centric. To my way of thinking the hummer wheels are lug centric (doesnt mean I am right, just looks that way to me). So that being said, will it hurt anything to have the wheels machined out to 5. 125 rather than 4. 779? I want to take them to that size so I can put an aftermarket drop in center hub cover. Most of the aftermarket companies make a deep hub cover that drops in the center of the wheel but they are all designed for aftermarket wheels that have a 5. 125 center hole. I have the wheels purchased and plan on haveing them machined in a few days..... need to know what others think of this.
 
JHardwick said:
Has anybody found a repeatable means of balancing the wheels once the center hole is butchered?



I still don't understand. You spend $75 or more on a hole saw and tool rental when you could have a local shop give you a precision hole for probably less $$.



JHardwick, Since you are a machinist, When I look for a machine shop to open up this hole, what kind of machine would be prefered? Should it be a precision grinding shop, with a certain type of machine?



Thanks, Marty
 
Elite1 said:
JHardwick, Since you are a machinist, When I look for a machine shop to open up this hole, what kind of machine would be prefered? Should it be a precision grinding shop, with a certain type of machine?



Thanks, Marty



If you don't mind, I could answer this.

A manual mill using a boring head at minimum will be fine.

Many shops will have one just for the sake of maintenance or tooling.

A CNC mill would be simple but may cost a little more depending on how much production time your cutting in on.

A lathe that has enough swing diameter probably won't have a capable way of holding the wheel true.



The manual mill will be the easiest to find. A grinding shop should have one but it's not a crucial machine tool for grinding production.



BTW, a typical shop rate around here is $60 an hour and it takes me 1. 5 hours to bore 4 wheels. Most shops will charge a full hour for 30 minutes.



Dismount the tire and all balancing weights before the work.
 
There is such a small amount of metal being removed that it would be almost impossible to have any effect on the balance of the wheels, also any difference in weight has less effect on the wheel the closer it is to the hub, so to worry about balance problems as a result of having the center hole enlarged is really a moot point.
 
OK, I have my new H2 wheels on... Any other ideas on the center caps, besides cutting the stockers to fit? Is anyone using something different? The H2's caps won't work on the rear wheels...
 
I like the look of the Dodge centercaps -- that's what I did. I've seen some people run with the H2 caps on the front only and others that do not use any at all. It looks kinda' mean with no center caps. :)
 
Bertram65 said:
There is such a small amount of metal being removed that it would be almost impossible to have any effect on the balance of the wheels, also any difference in weight has less effect on the wheel the closer it is to the hub, so to worry about balance problems as a result of having the center hole enlarged is really a moot point.



Probably the biggest reason I did them accurately is the stock Dodge premium rims are the same. Why would there be a raised area on the axle hub diameters where the stock wheels fit snug. I figured it would just be better to do the H2 wheels teh same way. Remember, I used the stock wheel inside hole diameters. I measure the axle hubs. It was a close fit.
 
I did the exact same thing as hoot. The strange thing is that when I measured the inside diameter of the wheel, it was NOT round. Go figure. It was more of an oval shape. If I recall correctly, it was almost 1/8" difference in diameter from one measurement relative to it being rotated 90 degrees.
 
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