Have a problem.... any ideas

[Headshot zod]

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



the replacement solenoid is $200. 00.....

 

[Paychk]

No it isn't... do a search on this forum for "VW*"; make sure you use the asterisk with the VW cause the system won't let you search on 2 letters. You should find a P/N for a solenoid that is about $40.

 

[RWWinslow]

Lift pumps have a variable life span. . . . The Cummins originals seem to last the best - the NAPA copies go quickly . . . . if you have gelled up the fuel filter and tried to start / run in this condition this seems to really shorten the life of your fuel lift pump. I have been through a number of lift pumps in 400,000 miles. . . . .

 

[Headshot zod]

I did a search for the vw part. Thnx. There is a VW dealer a few miles from the house. The closest dodge part is about an hour and a half. The closest dodge dealer (also a few miles from my house) didn't stock the part. Just my luck.

 

[Headshot zod]

Ok..... this morning



I went to VW and gave them the numbers (as per this posting) . He says "AHHHH... . Bosch numbers that I can't use". They gave me their part number #028-130-135-B. Then they said VW no longer make that part. Local auto parts store couldn't get it with the Bosch number and said "dealer only" part. The dealer couldn't believe the part cost $216. 00. The box is from Cummins. Came home installed it in the sleet and snow. It fired right up. And it fires right up pointing nose up on a hill so I am assuming its fixed... .

 

[Headshot zod]

Alt.Usenet.Vehicles.Dodge.Cummins.First_Gen.Die.Di e.Die

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Filter, Lift Pump, Shutoff Solenoid and Relay all replaced. The problem is still with me. Whats left? The Injection Pump and the Injectors?

 

[Paychk]

Whats left? The Injection Pump and the Injectors?

I'd say the rest of the primary fuel system; lines leading from/to the fuel tank, the strainer in the tank etc.



Try this it may help:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127401



Also I remember a case of hard starting and it was cause by a pin hole rubbed in the fuel line, leaking air into the fuel. Try searching on that too.

 

[RWWinslow]

I had a pinhole leak on the fuel line supplying the lift pump many years ago - took a while to find the problem but it fixed the slow start.

 

[JStraw]

There are some rubber hose's that can go bad as well as the fuel lines corroding over time. These would be the least expensive to change out and give you a piece of mind.

 

[RGuzzo]

Did you check the length of the overflow spring. 1/2 inch if it has collapsed it can be stretched slightly and carefully not to overstretch. Be careful when removing and when replacing as those ity bittty parts have to go back in the same order as they were taken out and they can fall. If I was going to take it out I would get a new one from marty thompkins for about 55 bucks and do it once as I had to do it twice as it was the prob. and it did come back a few months later.

 

[RWWinslow]

Where is the overflow spring?



Thanks in advance. . . . .

 

[Headshot zod]

I think its something in the tank. After reading all of your info and the fact that I can now stall it with heavy breaking or at low idle with less then a 1/4 tank of fuel. I'm going to drop the tank tomorrow and see if its internals are causing me grief.



Thanks again... ...

 

[RWWinslow]

Good idea - forgot about the tank issue on mine until I looked back at some very old maintenance log notes - after 10 years - if my memory is still correct - there is a pickup tube and plastic type of container inside the tank that is supposed to prevent what is happening from occurring. Also, as memory recalls, the top of the tank is accessed by a very large threaded plastic cap - use a strap wrench and be very careful when re-threading the cap back onto the top of the tank.

 

[k2diesel]

I think its something in the tank. After reading all of your info and the fact that I can now stall it with heavy breaking or at low idle with less then a 1/4 tank of fuel. I'm going to drop the tank tomorrow and see if its internals are causing me grief.



Thanks again... ...

Headshot... ... ... ... . Try THIS... ... Cut the rubber fuel line that feeds the lift pump a few inches before the pump (this is the suction side of the pump). Install a 5/16" brass "T" inline. T off this with about 2' of 5/16" rubber fuel line. Get about 2' of app. 5/32" vacuum hose ( to push snugly into the 5/16 line) this will fit between hood and cowl to just above windshield wiper. Now get yourself a standard issue automotive diagnostic vacuum gauge, attach to 5/32 line and duct tape this to the windshield where you can see it while you drive. This set up can tell you a lot and hopefully diagnose your problem. Under normal operating conditions gauge should read a max. of 3. 75"of hg ( or less is ok, as long as it is more than 0 ) If you are intermittently losing fuel on the supply side of the pump ( due to an intermittent air leak in a rubber hose, plastic pickup tube, or cavitation of the fuel pickup) your vacuum gauge will fall off to ZERO. I used this very set up to diagnose just the opposite problem of TOO MUCH restriction (10" of hg) due to a munged up/ partially disabled fuel pickup. Please give it a try before you throw more dough at it. GOOD LUCK K2

 

[Headshot zod]

Argh!!!!!

Dear Miss Landers,



It just won't end around here..... The CD jewel case for my manual is empty. I was under the truck yesterday and I don't see any obvious way to drop the tank. The straps look like they are attached somehow on the top of the tank. Is is easier to remove the bed and work on the tank that way?



Signed,



Perpetually Happy NJ Truck Owner Oo.

 

[Philip]

The tank straps are held by bolts on one end and they lock into the frame with brackets on the inside end. Run the tank down on fuel level. Roll a floor jack under it and remove the two bolts then twist the straps to release them from the frame mounting point. Let the tank down till you get enough room to remove the connections. Then jack the truck up high enough to slide the tank out.



Don't forget to unhook the fuel fill connections. There are two rubber hose connections on the outside of the frame. The metal tube going into the tank is just a push in setup. You can slide it out if you want to after the rubber hoses are disconnected.



The bed has 6 bolts holding it on plus the wiring connections. If all the bolts would come out is a big question with the age of these trucks.



On a side note. If you drop the tank out. Look the brake line to the rear axle over real good. They like to rust behind the tank. While the tank is out is the time to replace it if you see heavy rust pitting on the brake line.

 

[bgilbert]

Yep if the bed bolts will work with ya, course you can replace them, removing the bed to me is easier. A reversible ratcheting wrench will work wonders on the nuts securing the tank straps. I had the bed off my 78 which is a rust king, to remove the tank, and it wasn't any fun with PB Blaster and a ratcheting wrench, busted up knuckles blood, sweat and tears etc... Not the bed, the tank removal was the chore. Now you're 92 might not be as bad. Still the wrench I'm talking about will make it an easier job.

 

[Headshot zod]

ok great, All I needed was that different perspective. I crawled under the truck from the rear and looked down towards the front. The first bolt on the tank is fairly accessible. The second appears to be under the carrier bearing assembly. So next weekend I'll drop the propeller shaft and everything should come out easier. Oo.



Thanks again

 

[SFerrin]

ok great, All I needed was that different perspective. I crawled under the truck from the rear and looked down towards the front. The first bolt on the tank is fairly accessible. The second appears to be under the carrier bearing assembly. So next weekend I'll drop the propeller shaft and everything should come out easier. Oo.



Thanks again

I hate to sound like a pessimist, but your situation sounds like mine was. Before removing the tank you might consider the following dire suggestion I got from a diesel tech. ONce you have it running and then it stops while it is warm and won't start again, you might try (but you have to not be too risk adverse here) pouring some cool water on the injector pumps end, the injector head end, nearest the firewall. If that makes it start up, voila you know it is your injector pump heading south. I know that it is a bit dangerous to the pump's life to dash a large amount of cold water on a hot piece of metal. I'm suggesting doing this judiciously. If this works, you save yourself replacing or working on other things. The down side is you have to buy a new injector pump. The up side is with a new injector pump, new lift pump, adjust the valves you'll be driving a new truck. This was my experience. Good luck. I'll understand if you don't want to try this procedure. Worked for me and saved me from continuing to replace other parts to try to save money.

 

[1stgen4evr]

hate to sound like - - -

Different pump and different application, but I have seen the cold water thing kill a good pump. (washing down a John Deere loader) Proceed with caution.



If the pump IS worn badly, the procedure should show some result. Devil of a call.



James