Head bolt woes

[Bamtech1]

I know there will be differing opinions, I have two or three myself!
Backstory: A year ago when I replaced injectors, DVs, GSK, adjusted timing etc., I “retorqued” the head bolts. Shoulda left it alone. Some felt a little weird/stretchy.
On a trip last week I noticed a faint coolant smell at fuel stops. Was a tad low but I couldn’t see where it was coming from. I topped off the radiator and came on home. Never got any warmer than normal, no smoke, runs great. Then Saturday when I got time I put a pressure tester on it. Found the head of the head bolt between 2&3 laying loose between the valve covers. The coolant is seeping up around that head bolt.

Ok. So I need a head gasket and hardware. I know the cool trick is ARP studs, cut the head, mill the rocker stands etc.
The reality is I need to drive this thing over the river and through the woods to Thanksgiving in a couple of weeks.

I’m inclined to pop the head off, clean it up and reassemble with OE gasket and new bolts. At the moderate power level and stock turbo at 30psi max, I don’t think studs are necessary, and I’m willing to gamble that the head’s flat.

What do y’all think?

 

[Joe Mc]

If it were me I'd get the head surface checked and trued-up at a machine shop. Get new head gasket from a Cummins shop close to you and "all new" head-bolts. That head bolt you found between 2&3 was it just the head or whole bolt? from your post it sounds like you may have busted one and what you have is a broken piece of bolt stuck in the block. If this is the case you'll have a blast trying to get the head off the engine block while in the engine compartment. Good luck.

 

[BigPapa]

I'd do as Joe Mc said, AFTER Thanksgiving, as long as you don't have coolant getting in your oil or oil in the coolant.

 

[Bamtech1]

Oh, I didn’t think of that. The head would have to come straight up for the thickness of the head itself. Hmm. That throws another spanner in the works! The bolt is broken off nearly flush with the head.

 

[Bamtech1]

Just hesitant about running another thousand miles with the camper on, in case it worsens. Of course it may have been like that for months without me noticing.

 

[Joe Mc]

If you can get to the bolt remnant you might be able to weld the inside of a flat washer to it then a nut to the flat washer and while its still hot spray with PB Blaster and you might get lucky to impact it out. Just have to be careful not to hurt the head when welding...

 

[Bamtech1]

Well, I couldn’t wait to get home and see if the remnant would come out. It did, maybe too easily. Backed it right out with a screwdriver.

 

[GAmes]

Back to the stud question. Boost doesn't blow head gaskets. If you advance your timing a lot, like over 18 then you run the chance of blowing a head gasket without studs. If it were me I would take the opportunity to get a valve job done but if you don't have the time at least check for flatness with a good straight edge. I would install a set of new head bolts, torque to factory specs and then LEAVE THEM ALONE. Felpro head gaskets are identical to Cummins (I truly believe they are made in the same factory) and cost less.

 

[Bamtech1]

Thanks, GAmes. I’m now considering hybrid option 3: put a new bolt in that hole and wait ‘til after turkeyday trip to really tear it down. I just don’t have the days off between now and then to get it all done. And I’d rather sandpaper a tiger’s a$$ in a phone booth than tell wifey we ain’t taking the camper to Florida for the week.
Fwiw, timing is at 17°

 

[BigPapa]

It did, maybe too easily. Backed it right out with a screwdriver.

Once the tension is off it should screw out easily.

 

[Bamtech1]

Yeah, just thinking about the bolt standing there oscillating around for who knows how many miles, wallering out the threads.

 

[petersonj]

I’m now considering hybrid option 3: put a new bolt in that hole and wait ‘til after turkeyday trip to really tear it down.

I think that would work fine - just check for coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant, as mentioned above. Certainly worth a try.

No good deed goes unpunished.

- John

 

[Joe Mc]

Looking at the picture I see what appears to be remnants of metal from the broken bolt on valve spring retainer and other places as well as coolant. Recommend using a magnet and get all metal out and change the oil. When installing new head bolt, since it appears coolant came from head bolt area, check FSM to see if sealant is to be used on threads to prevent migration of coolant into oil. Perhaps someone will confirm/correct my thoughts.

 

[BigPapa]

No sealant on head bolts.

 

[GAmes]

As Scott said, no sealant, just a light coat of engine oil after you have cleaned the threaded hole in the block. Personally, my guess is that you will still have coolant escaping the bolt hole. There are five other bolts around the cylinder to clamp the gasket and the head won't flex downward when you torque the bolt.

 

[Joe Mc]

Scott and Games, thanks for correcting/providing accurate info. Bummer that he still will most likely have coolant getting into the oil.

Bamtech1, Not knowing where you are traveling from "to Florida and back", I'd strongly advise not taking your rig on any length of a road trip, especially working it by hauling a camper. If you think "sandpapering a tiger’s a$$ in a phone booth" is bad consider what your wife would think if you broke down on the hi way, wiped the engine and then had to figure out how to get your rig and camper home and then $$$$ to repair/replace. God forbid that would happen. If it did happen, you know (as does every other married guy here) all the while your wife would be giving you that "look of love" (<-- in the past 15 years of our 30 years together what I've used to replace that "if looks could kill" look we all get from our brides).

"Just sayin`"...

 

[Bamtech1]

Well, tonight I chased the bolt hole and cleaned it out with brake cleaner and compressed air. Put one new OE bolt in, oiled and torqued to spec. I did kinda “feel” the surrounding bolts with the torque wrench- not enough to move them, just to see if they DID move. Basically to the 90# spec minus the 90 degrees.
Pumped the cooling system to 15 psi- no leak cold. Ran the engine up to 190, thermostat cycled- still no leak. No fluids mixing. Took it for a short drive and parked it outside the gate to commute tomorrow. Fingers crossed...

 

[Joe Mc]

Sounds like you might be good. Hope so. At least you'll have some time to get several heat cycles before the trip. Might even not have to worry about sanding a tiger's butt in a phone booth or even better not getting that "look of love" from your lovely bride.. Good luck.

 

[Bamtech1]

Thanks. So far,so good! Drove it to work this morning. It’s only a 30 minute 11 mile run, not even enough to open the thermostat, but still dry!

 

[Joe Mc]

So you'll drive to work tomorrow and then giver her a real test this weekend?