2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Head Lights gone wacko

[Texis]

Just when I thought I had everything fixed, a new electrical bug-a-boo has emerged. If I make a long highway run at night and pull off to make a pit stop...the head lights will not come back on. This has happened a couple of times. Any other situation they come right on and work fine (aside from being horribly weak).

Everything else works, tail lights, brake lights, parking lights, hazards, dash lights.. everything, just the head lights refuse to come back on after a long highway night run?? If I let it sit a while they will eventually come back on. Sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes a few hours.

This weird bug can't be tolerated, I have pondered it for a few days. Any ideas???

 

[Bob4x4]

Do a physical inspection of the headlamp switch and wiring

 

[seafish]

Headlight switch is probably overheating and neighing to fail…common problem.

 

[BigPapa]

Do a physical inspection of the headlamp switch and wiring

Headlight switch is probably overheating and neighing to fail…common problem.

Me three! Been there, done that. You'll probably need the connector also. I may still have the one out of my '95 if it will work.

 

[Texis]

I assumed head light switch, as I had to replace it a few years back. The O'Reilly replacement switch is more than likely crap. I do run the lights on hi-beam 100% of the time.. just to see the road LOL. Lights in these trucks are SO bad that no other drivers ever flash me for being on hi-beam hahaha. Suppose I will return it for another free one.

You'll probably need the connector also

What is "the connector"??

When I installed the last switch I had to splice every wire. Crimped & heat shrink wrapped each one.. i.e. no fun.

This would be a good time to add a head light relay?? I know the good aftermarket lights require an additional relay. Wouldn't that take the high amp load off the light switch?

 

[Bill Stockard]

There was a either a recall or a TSB covering the failure of the headlight switch, connectors and wiring due to overheating for '97 3500 DRW trucks. IIRC, the switch, connectors, and some of the wire harness was replaced which was done on my previously owned '97 3500 DRW truck. If it was indeed a recall, the replacement parts may be still available from your dealer.

Bill

 

[GAmes]

There are a number of things you can do to keep the wires from melting. Pull the facia off and drill several holes in the vent tube that is below the switch, then make sure you have the dash air working when the lights are on. There isn't any air movement up there. Don't drive with your dash lights real dim. The dimmer the lights, the more heat from the rheostat that is part of the switch. Replace all your external marker lights and tail lights with LEDs. Bonus, if you use white ones in the license plate light the lenses won't melt. When you have the time, install relays to power the headlights. They will take a lot of the load off the switch and the headlights will be brighter.

The jumper wire is only if you want the dim filaments to stay lit when you turn on the brights. I forgot to draw in the diode to keep power from the low beam circuit from activating the high beams.

I replaced my hazy headlights with new ones from Genos. Then I spent some time that night adjusting them. I have plenty of light at night.

 

[fest3er]

Shouldn't the jumper wire go to the high beam relay's pin 86? (With the diode so the high beam (RD/OR) can operate both relays, but the low beam operates only the low beam relay?)

Oh, wait. It doesn't matter much. I was thinking to keep the low current controls separate from the high current loads.

 

[GAmes]

Thanks for the addition of the diode. Every time I post that picture I have to add the narrative about the jumper.

 

[Texis]

I found an HD 94-02 lighting harness with the relays in the LMC catalog for $29 bucks? Claims no cutting, splicing, etc and has OEM light connectors on it. Direct plug in. Says that it pulls head light power directly from the battery. Looks like an easy, clean plug-n-play add on, I'm going to order one today.

 

[GAmes]

Please post back after you install it.

 

[Texis]

will do, more than likely take a week to come in.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=52

 

[Texis]

UPDATE>>

Installed all the new goodies today, waiting for dark to find out if I succeeded. The LCM harness with relays is a decent assembly, however I don't think they provide enough wire length. Apparently this has been complained about as the package says "This harness should not need to be extended in length, please check routing options carefully". I wanted the passenger side routed with the battery cable on top of the radiator.. it's not long enough for that. Not sure where they expect it to be routed, maybe under the radiator?? I had to add 8-10" on each ground wire and 10" on the bulb wires for the passenger side (with MY routing preference). But in the end it works. I am going to order some spare relays, as they do not appear to be "store stock items".

I also added the Ebay (1) piece headlight fixtures ($80). What a pile of Chinese poo. They have no beam angle adjustment, nor do they have any way to secure the bulbs. The bulbs just push into female bores in the back of the fixture? The OEM bulb retaining collars will not work with these light fixtures (but hey, they look great!!). I'm not sure if the LMC bulb fittings will accept the OEM retaining collars either? They are slightly different than the OEM bulb connectors. Only time will tell if the bulbs vibrate out and melt the housings! Total investment so far is not too bad... $80 for the housings and $40 for the LMC harness. If I get REAL headlights outta the deal for the $120 I have spent, I'll be happy.

I'll give another update after dark! Here's hoping and figures crossed.

 

[Texis]

Two part update, first the LMC harness finally puts some power to the bulbs, that's a good thing. Part 1 fixed.

Part 2 is a huge disappointment. The one piece Chinese headlight fixtures at this point are garbage. As I mentioned there is no adjustment, so it appears that the beams are crisscrossed. They are definitely bright, but the beam pattern leaves a big dark (black) hole in the center of the street. Yes, they look great.. BUT the inability to adjust the beams leaves these Ebay units undesirable, not to mention the fact that the bulbs are not secured... I'll call these folks tomorrow, but currently I thinking about returning them. "IF" I could locate some longer mounting bolts, I believe could shim them into position. The exterior gasket that snaps onto the OEM units, comes form China without snaps.. they give you some very weak adhesive to stick their gaskets on.. very poor design.

Has anyone else experienced this? Are all of these 1 piece units built this way?

 

[GAmes]

By "one piece" do you mean single bulb or the headlight and turn signal are one piece? I'm more than pleased with the units I got from Genos. They adjust and stock bulb retainers work just fine. Also, the bulbs that come with them are excellent.

 

[Texis]

These are the units I purchased.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-94-01...ash=item51c86d5d88:g:w44AAOSwd0BV50FV&vxp=mtr

 

[GAmes]

Not much of a bargain were they?

 

[Texis]

I took them off this morning and they are boxed up to be returned.. junk. I ended up doing a complete restoration on my originals, 320 grit-1500 grit + #10 plastic polish. Between the new LMC harness with the relays and the restoration on my head lamp lens, I know have really good lights. They are now better than they have been since I have owned the truck. I credit much of the improvement to the relays as now the lights are running directly off the batteries. For now, I'm good.

 

[GAmes]

I know from experience that polishing the lenses is a short term fix. However, I'm glad you have an improvement.

 

[DavidC]

2k clear is about the only thing that will last a decent amount of time. I personally re-buff the Wife's van around 3 Months as it sits outside 24/7 in the AZ. sun and taking the headlights out to paint on that Toyota is basically dismantling the front end. I recently started using Finish Kare Hy temp sealant and it seems to protect better than anything I have used before. I also just recently (last weekend) started using Optimum spray car wax which has UV A and UV B protection and is a hybrid carnuba/sealant. I will see if all of this helps as I really hate yellow headlights.

Dave