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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Headgasket replacement options

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So the headgasket in my '95 is starting to leak oil pretty bad between the #5 and #6 exhaust ports. The truck has 401k on it and is rusting out pretty bad, in an attempt to same some money I'm really considering replacing the gasket myself.

1. Can anyone recommend a good shop that I could get the head resurfaced at in the Fredericksburg/Richmond Virginia area?
2. If I were to get cold feet about doing it myself, is there a turn key shop in the same area that anyone would recommend?

I would need to barrow or rent an engine hoist and maybe a better torque wrench than what I currently have. My biggest concern about doing it myself is just having the time do to my crazy work schedule and other obligations I have. Sometimes the better option for me is to eat the labor costs, but know my truck will be ready in a couple of days and that it will be done right. Any other pointers or suggestions are welcome.
Please keep in mind that I'm just trying to keep the old girl alive for a while longer, she is nearing the end of her useful life and I'm not trying to rebuild the engine or anything. If I can keep the engine and trans running for another 100k or so, the body is going to rust off of the frame. I cant justify spending several thousand dollars for all the "do it right" or "while you have it apart you should" type repairs. Not that I don't love my truck, it just wouldn't be a smart economical decision at this point:(.
 
I can't offer any info on the machine shops in your area but can tell you that on a 12 valve, this is a pretty easy job. Check and make sure that there are different thickness head gaskets in your area as you'll need the correct one depending on how much material is removed from the head by the machine shop.

Not sure how strong you are but last time I did one, me and a friend pulled/installed the head with ease. A lift will most likely be mandatory unless you are related to the Incredible Hulk!

Still running the stock manifold? If so, plan for shrinkage causing re installation problems.
 
Many years ago Cummins went to the "marine" grade head gasket which is better than what you have now. If the head needs to be resurfaced, it needs a very smooth surface. Too many shops want a rough surface to "bite" into the gasket, and that is the wrong approach. Do a search for tips and you can perform the r&r yourself.
 
Many years ago Cummins went to the "marine" grade head gasket which is better than what you have now. If the head needs to be resurfaced, it needs a very smooth surface. Too many shops want a rough surface to "bite" into the gasket, and that is the wrong approach. Do a search for tips and you can perform the r&r yourself.

I was unaware the newer marine gaskets needed a smooth surface. That is good information to know. Is the stock block surface smooth enough, or will it need to be decked smoother? Thanks
 
If you know what your doing its not hard to do, I did mine in my drive way in 7 hours or so. Just make sure that the engine is stone cold before unbolting the head.
 
Is it a good idea to resurface a head that is going back on a bottom end with 400k on it? I have been told some just clean off the old gasket material and put it back together when it is high mileage.
 
I may have cried wolf guys. After I looked into it a little further, I found that the #6 rocker box gasket, all the way in the back up against the fire wall had been leaking. I adjusted the valves and put all new gaskets on at 400K. The gasket on #6 had rolled under the rocker box, but somehow still managed to seal for the first couple hundred miles. When it cut loose, the oil was running off of the back of the head, around the top of the block, and it looked as if it was leaking from the head gasket between the #5 and #6 exhaust ports. I'm glad I found it before I pulled the head off. Thanks for your input guys.
 
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