Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Headlight issue

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Antifreeze

Status
Not open for further replies.
While I was driving on a dark country road, my headlights went out. I managed to pull over and after the switch cooled off, I went on only to have the lights go out again about 30 minutes later. I could smell something overheating. I replaced the switch and noted that the plug was melted on one of the connections. This wire has a fuse link in it. This is the second time I have replaced the switch. This time was a bit disconcerting though. Does anyone know what causes this?
 
Part of the problem is there is no air in the pocket where the headlight switch is, some people will dill 3 or 4 small holes it the air duct under the switch. This allows some air to cool switch. Also the dash light dimmer creates heat when dimmed. The more dim the hotter it gets. Also some will add a relay to headlight circuit so that lights draw straight from batt. and switch just triggers relay. On my 01 I put a Brite box from Genosgarge.com. Got brighter lights and relay to cool switch.
 
^^^ That is correct… it is the resistor coil that dissipates heat when the dash lights are dimmed. Get yourself a new switch AND connector and also drill some holes in the duct to help cool it off. Runnin ghte dimmer as little as possible will also help. Def a recurring problem, but all these things will help out.
 
Thanks. I already ordered a new connector. I didn't have a choice but to install the new switch while waiting on the connector. I'll check out the Brite Box.
 
Thanks. I didn't find it initially because the harness is not identified in the topic line. A reference to the thread would have been more helpful. It seems that Texis is happy with 1/2 of his purchase.
 
Also check search for headlight harness. Check out firefighter 2000 he makes a heavy duty harness. SUV also makes a harness.
 
Thanks all. I've decided to: 1) replace the headlight switch again (Done. This is #4); 2) The connector is not badly melted but, I'll replace it when it comes in; and 3) Replace the wiring harness with one of the harnesses noted above. Hopefully, this will avoid a recurrence of literally being left in the dark. Because of the way I purchased the switches, I now have a spare that I'll add to my boonie bag.
 
I thought that I'd give you an update. I replaced the headlight switch from Advanced Auto twice. In both the dimmer and cargo lamp circuits either didn't work or didn't work correctly. I eventually got one from Auto Zone which seems to be a better product. Genos has a Mopar switch that may be worth the extra $30. I replaced the headlight lens with the sport conversion headlight lens from Genos. I got the conversion wiring harness from Daniel Stern. For those interested in doing the conversion, Daniel Stern makes a good quality product and seems to be around to answer questions. I now have a lot more light and hopefully solved the melting headlight switch.

As an aside I did not drop the bumper to install the headlights. I don't think it's necessary. With a little patience and manipulation, they slide right in and out without a fuss. I had more trouble and aggravation removing the grill guard after 17 years. Once it was out of the way, I had no trouble installing the lens. Additionally, the Turbo Register has an old article on this conversion. If you need to cut sheet metal to make room for the second bulb, pay attention to the pictures. You really do need to cut that much metal out. A sawsall and Dremel with a cut off wheel made short work of it.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top