2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Headlight switch again!

[QRTRHRS]

My headlights started flashing on/off last night. The knob position is real touchy about being in just the place and hitting a bump will knock the lights off. I called around to the stealers. No one has one in stock and one parts man said "wow" 77 bucks. Having replaced it once before, I think it is time to explore an alternative.



Anyone ever tried a different arrangement? I have some heavy duty toggles and some reostats. Guess maybe I will play around with it this weekend.

 

[cwcox]

First time on the board... I have had similar problems with the headlight switch. Too much amperage running through it and the wiring harness to the switch is also too light of a gauge. I routed all my auxiliary lighting through a separate relay which helped alot. I will be adding a separate relay for the headlights soon. Just use the headlight switch to control battery positive feed to switch the relay on/off. Hope that helps!

 

[RonaldLarson]

It's about...

Current draw. We get a few, and I mean a few complaints about this at our dealership. After year model '99, no concern, but you cannot believe the number of lights some folks connect to their trailer light connector! Could light up a small city. The best solution if you are running lots of lights is to use a relay to operate the running lights for the trailer. Also, be sure you have a good solid ground connection to the trailer. This will prevent current surge caused by poor grounding to the truck.

Ron

 

[QRTRHRS]

I have not been pulling a trailer much this past fall, I do have three 4" tailights on each side and three 4" center makers. Plus, six ~2" corner marker lights.

 

[Matt42]

Did the factory trailering package for the pre 1999s have a relay that dealt with the problem? Or should a relay be installed anyway? What kind of relay?

 

[DSiemens]

My headlight switch was "touchy" too. I install Dodge part #CAJM8190. It includes a relay, headlight switch, heavier wires, heat shrink tubing and more. Cost was $78. 10 Canadian at the dealer. Cajm8190 is a recall for Dodge 1994-1997 3500 trucks. I installed it in my 1995 2500. Recall #819

 

[QRTRHRS]

Little update here.

I finally pulled my switch apart and indeed the parking light circuit is the problem. My plug was a little damaged but the switch was in worse shape. I remembered saving the old switch. I had changed it because I had noticed it smelling but it still looked in good shape so I guess that's why I saved it. I dug up my records to see when I had purchased it. I was new at the time and knew their were problems but did not know of the CAJM8190 replacement kit. A certain internet web site never suggested it either, buyer beware. My build date is too late also for the recall.



I cleaned up the wiring and put the old switch back in while I work out the details for an alternate system. I cut open the burned switch and have been going over everything putting some ideas together. I am thinking about setting it up so I can "tab" a switch to do blink blink thank you's for one. I am going to put the parking lights on a relay and maybe run heavier guage wiring at least to the rear lights. And, toggles for the interior and cargo light, which should be more user friendly than stock. I won't get a chance to work on it until the weekend between the holidays. Hope the wiring holds up until then.

 

[WDaniels]

I have replace mine twice and it still gets warm. So, I just finished checking on the head light switch tonight for the 96 and 97 3500 to see if I could put on mine. Aren't both the one ton and 3/4 tons the same interior and wiring??? The only difference is the extra tires and lights on the tailgate, right????? It is a recall for the 3500's but not the 2500. Why???? Recall 819 I believe. The CAJM8190 is the recall kit and most stealer's will not sell it.

WD

 

[QRTRHRS]

WD, see the info on Fritz's site. The kit adds a relay to the parking lamp circuit. Not all 2500's have the cab markers but all 3500's do. Once you start chasing down the wiring circuits, you can see how much load is on that one 16 guage wire.



The recall has a cutoff date which is bull too. Call me cranky but I decided to see if I can come up with my own cure.

 

[QRTRHRS]

WD, see the info on Fritz's site. The kit adds a relay to the parking lamp circuit. Not all 2500's have the cab markers but all 3500's do. Once you start chasing down the wiring circuits, you can see how much load is on that one 16 guage wire.



The recall has a cutoff date which is bull too. Call me cranky but I decided to see if I can come up with my own cure. http://dodgeram. info/tsb/recalls/819.htm



Getting sleepy, forgot the site.

 

[WDaniels]

This recall 819 for the 3500, can we do that to the 2500? I can get the kit for 44 bucks. It would be worth it for me.

WD

 

[DSiemens]

Yes you can put in the CAJM8190 in a 3/4 ton. I don't know why DC "thinks" 3/4 don't need it. I had no trouble purchasing it from a 5 star dealer. A no star dealer doesn't seem to keep them in stock. This kit is the best fix that I know of for our w2500 headlight woes.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Making headway.

One of the tech's I work with sat down with me tonight and we went over the circuits and what I wanted to do. I know I could easily just put the kit in. Thing is, I just don't like the way the light switch feels. I also want to modify the cargo light so I don't have to have the interior lights on with it.



I am going to use micro switches with relays for both the head and parking lights plus a seperate reostat for the dimmer. I am going to toss out the beverage cup holder (97') and put everything there. I will be putting a non latching double throw switch in place of the factory switch set up to do thank you blink blinks.

 

[DSiemens]

doing it your own way

Ya, I understand that doing it your own way is more satisfying. Please keep posting your results. I would like to see a schematic when your done. Me, I don't want to lose my cup holder. Good luck

 

[WDaniels]

Thanks everyone. This one problem has me chewing nails because I'm getting very little help from DC. Go figure!

WD

 

[radar doctor]

Too Much Current

I ve got a 99 and so far i haven't had a switch problem. How can you know if the factory put in a mod or what ever. I have felt around the switch and its cool with the lights on. Any suggestions???

 

[QRTRHRS]

Check out the TSB thread to see what the modified switch looks like.



http://dodgeram. info/tsb/recalls/819.htm



When mine got hot, it smelled almost like fresh Rotella T. I don't exactly know how the 99 is made. On my 97', I can have my switch out in five minutes easy. If you want to inspect, disconnect the batteries, unscrew the drink holder, pull the bezel off, three screws hold the switch in. The wire has slack in so you can pull it out.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Progress Report - Kinda Long

So long factory headlight switch. Although I don't have all the bugs ironed out, I have done away with the switch. Warning, the way I did it is not for those unwilling to do some surgury. This is for a 97, I don't know how many similarities there are to other years.



I used two relays, one for parking and one for headlights. Using the factory manual, locate the switch plugs on page 8W-80-32.



B1 supplies the headlight power to H. P is also tied in. I think P momentarily supplies extra current when you switch high beam/low beam or maybe hold it so both are on at the same time. I tied B1 & P together.



B2 supplies parking light power to R.



I put the relays in between the source and outputs.



Using a double pole double throw micro switch, I wired the lower position to activate the parking relay. The upper activates the headlights. The upper also has a diode connection to the parking relay. The diode allows the headamps to activate the parking side.



U is a door jamb switch sense. B3 is the key in ignition switch sense. These two circuits are isolated until you put the headlight switch into park or headlamp mode.



I wired U to the center and B3 to both upper and lower switch positions. When either headlights or parking are on, the circuit is made via the double switch.



D is for the cargo lamp. Referring to plug C1, 1 is the courtesy lamp circuit. Both D and C1 work by grounding. These then were simple. I used a micro switch for each.



That said, I will get onto the bug; the reostat. The reostat connects between B2 and I. I smoked a couple of "stats" so far on this so I am still working it out.



I am still working on a switch to do "blink blink" thank you's.



The verdict: Was it worth it? Well, I did away with the drink holder. I was tired of dumping drinks anyway. (The circuitry all slides into that area and the front switch plate fills in the former cup holder area) It is really slick to flip the little micros rather than the "raspy-junky" factory switch. The cargo lights and the courtesy lights work independently and well. My wires going into the factory switch plug were in pretty rough shape so they needed major work anyway. I have ready access to relays and switches, etc. , so I can't give dollar figures on costs.



I am going to continue to work it out, trying different relays, etc. once I get some long term miles on it, I will try to post some drawings and pictures. I just want everyone to know, it can be done.

 

[RJ2]

Switching the clearance lights on the 3500's over to the LED units would cut the wattage substantially.

 

[stumphumper]

head light switch

QRTRHRS, I like your plan to rewire your headlamp switch. I pulled my cup holder out long time ago so I would not spill another soda on the carpet! Would like to see your schematic & pics when you get done. My lamp switch on my 95, 2500 caught on fire last year. Had a dodge fire inspector come to my house to look at it, jotted some notes down, and took off. He said he just looks and reports. Got a letter from the big D stating 'not going to cover it', cause it's not a 3500. I have no extra lights on my rig so if you have not had a lamp switch problem yet, well... . carry a fire extinguisher!