Headlights quit working....

[SSingleton]

I have a 1991 250, the headlights wouldn't come on for me this morning. They worked the night before. They may have been dim, hard to tell, it's pretty subjective when it's a short ride with foggy windows.



I checked all the fuses in the panel. All were good, but none were marked for headlights.



The relay is for the horn, and there are 2 flashers in it, hazard and turn signal. Is there a relay for the headlights, and where the **** is it?



I tried a new headlight to make sure both weren't burnt.



The owner's manual says there is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch. Doesn't go into detail other than that. There is a small pin on the bottom of the switch behind the dash, I pressed it in to see if it would reset and didn't get any results from it. The switch looks pretty new, like the original owner had replaced it fairly recently, and there is no rust to suggest water intrusion.



Hope someone can give me some more suggestions.



Thanks for the help, and your time.

 

[dpuckett]

Headlight relay is on the inner fender just behind the battery, driver's side.



The button under the switch is the release for the rod that you pull out going into the switch. WHile you're under there, see if the switch feels hot, and watch for a burning, wet plastic smell.



Put your truck info in the signature line- year (if 91, define if early or late), trans, SRW/ DRW, 3. 54/4. 10, cab, drive type, etc, etc. Dont have to get into real detail, but look at mine and some others for an idea of what is absolutely necessary. As this is your first post, I'll let it slide this time round. Just kidding, welcome to the TDR; hope you enjoy the nuthouse, uh, i mean 1st Gen forum.



Daniel

 

[Paychk]

Welcome to the forum



The C/B in the headlight switch is self resetting, if you get a short in the headlight circuit they will blink on/off till the short is fixed. The headlight switch is notorious for going bad, there is an improved switch/connector that can be bought from Dodge, it has a heavy duty switch and the connector has chrome terminals. The kit is listed for the 94-97 trucks but work on ours. The P/N of the kit is 4886449AB and goes for $ 57. 12 here:



http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213794



late 91 = factory inter-cooler

early 91 = no factory inter-cooler

 

[SSingleton]

What does the relay look like?



I looked under the hood today, but don't remember seeing anything that resembled the relay for the horn that I found in the panel.



I hope it's not the switch, how can I test it? edit:(now that I think about it, I think I might remember a burnt plastic smell that night when I drove to go offshore... )



BTW- the running lights come on when I pull the knob out, just not the headlights.



I think I need a FSM for this truck. Or at least a Haynes or Chilton manual. My local parts store didn't have one when I went in today. You guys prefer Haynes or Chilton? I'm assuming the FSM's are kinda $$?



Thanks for the info, keep it coming.

 

[1stgen4evr]

light problems

Saw a post a while back saying that when the new switch is put in the connecter may not have engaged all the blades completely. The new heavier switch comes with a kit that includes a new plastic block for that reason. The metal part of the connector may be bad as well. The kit contains new wires that can be spliced in.



I have had some problems with the dome light and tail lights but not the headlights. I know that you can use the heavier switch and improve the system. New switch tells me there has been a prob in your system. And the problem is still with you in one form or another. Consider the switch as the source then go to the other areas.



My D350s have all the clearance lights and I pull a trailer that has lights as well and the switch just won't take the load. Yours may have had similar service.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[Paychk]

On the service manual, you can use one from the aftermarket , but I would highly recommend the FSM, Techauthority is the Diamler-Chrysler source, you'll need to call them for the FSM, they don't list them on there web site anymore. 800-890-4038



As to the relay, there isn't any for the headlights, unless someone added one (just checked the manual to be sure of that). I would pull the switch down/out of the dash and look at it & the connector. The connector is usually charred in the center. If you need / put the kit in, coat all the terminals with dielectric grease, get it at the parts store, this will block out the air from getting to the terminals and starting any corrosion.



The burnt smell is the classic symptom of a fried connector, that and the erratic or no lights all point to fried connector.

 

[bgilbert]

Haynes does not cover the Cummins diesel engine, Stay away from Haynes. Chilton makes a 89-91 service manual that is pretty decent, I have it, it covers the Cummins. It can be had for less than $20 and shipping from ebay.

 

[SSingleton]

Thanks for all the help.



I ordered a 576 page Chilton's Manual for 1989-1991 Dodge trucks today, should be fairly comprehensive I hope. It was out of print, but I got it used for $14. 50 shipped to my door.



I looked at the switch this afternoon but couldn't figure out how to remove it. I did press the switch on bottom and pull out the actuator rod, kinda cool, but I couldn't figure out how to get any further w/o a hammer.



Would someone tell me how to remove this switch?

My book won't be in for a while and I may need to go back offshore some night very soon. I'm too embarassed to put this simple crap in the emergency section.

 

[1stgen4evr]

How to get to the switch

Take the instrument panel cover off. (Screws) You may need to take the plastic parts around the steering column (screws from the bottom side) off as well to help remove the instrument panel cover. You will be able to see if the wires to the ignition switch are showing burning as well after that cover is off.



Be careful the instrument panel cover will crack if you are too agressive. After you get that out of the way you can see how to take the switch out. You will need to stand on your head to see the connector and wire group as the wires are not long enough to get them out where you can see well.



I remember a post where one owner used his dremel to router around the switch mount so he could pull it out the front. I doubt that you will ever have trouble again if you use the heavier switch and the dielectric grease. No need to go too extensive with mods on the panel.



Anybody know a better way?



1stgen4evr

James

 

[RCCola]

For the factory head light switch the mopar part number is 56021898ab.

I burned 4 or 5 switchs then had the "factory" relay put in.

This last swich lasted a year and a half.



1. I would disconnect the battery. The first time I took the switch out it arked on all kinds of stuff under there



2. When you put it back togeth make sure the temp selector on the heater/AC is toward the center, hot or cold or it may hang the dash when you try and push it in( dont brake it like I did mine).



Once you get the conector off the swich you will see if the connector has melted any, you may have to take a knife or side cuters to "remove" a littel of the melted plastic to give the new swich a good contact.



And if you can't work on your truck and have to drive at night. Just hold back on the hight beams ... not recomended but it will get you home







good luck

welcome aboard

 

[SSingleton]

OK, I got into the dash today and I think I see where it burnt slightly on the connector and the terminals.

Only 1 terminal was burnt, marked "H", you can see it here:

#ad




This is the corresponding slot in the connector(straight slot in middle, not slanted), I guess it will work again once I scrape some of the burnt plastic out? I will definitely be using some dielectric grease when I reassemble it. I'm surprised it diodn't melt it worse than it did:

#ad




The #'s on the switch don't seem to match any of those that were posted here?

On the bottom side: 36033-K, then Mopar symbol, then 4373751.



While I have your attention, what the **** is this? It was in my dash shoved in behind the A/C controls:

#ad




Speaking of A/C controls, mine are pathetic. They just flop inside the dash-hole. I took it apart today and hoped to find a bracket missing, but it looks like the dash was actually molded to support/mount it, and the mounting tabs have been broken off(the dash). Sucks. My compressor is messed up too, think the clutch is sticking. Believe I have my material for my next post I guess.



Back to the topic at hand, do you think the damage you see on the switch is what caused my headlights to go out? I guess I'll research prices tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[1stgen4evr]

What is it

That is a map light or whatever you want to call it that goes under the lip of the dash toward the right side. If you look you will see where it was supposed to be. If I was good at pictures I could take one of mine and show you. It lights when you open the door and illuminates the heater controls. Can't remember if you have to put it in before the instrument cover or after but someone forgot it last time.



Good luck with all of it.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[JKurley]

Watch that map light- the brackets that it connect to (screw in) inside the dash are often broken (like mine). You might want to duct tape the switch off- a friend of mine with a 92s kept coming on, and since he couldnt see the light fallen behind the dash, his truck would be dead every morning, that is until he taped it.

 

[Tim1]

Hey bud, if you want to add a relay for the lignts, I've listed the parts in first gen discontinued parts section. Simple, no load on switch. Tim E-mail me if needed

 

[SSingleton]

I was wondering whether or not the 94-97 switch would work by itself or if you absolutely have to get the kit (#4886449AB) that includes the connector?



Looking around locally due to time constraints, and I found out that the switch alone (#56021892AB) is $30. 85, and the kit is gonna run me $81. 25.



Or... the stock switch alone is $20. 13, but I would have to wait until Monday for it to get here. And I would rather fix this problem for good, rather than band-aid it.



Tim1, thanks for the tip on the relay info. If I were to install the 2 relays that you spoke of and get a new stock switch for a 91, would it negate the need for the upgraded 94-97 switch?



Thanks guys!

 

[1stgen4evr]

Will the relays- - - - -

If you add the relays, the switch will not have much load on it. You might want to have a relay for the trailer running lights (if you pulll one). Yes the original switch will work fine if you are sure to use the dielectric grease and get the connectors pushed on completely.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[Tim1]

To be honest with you, I really haven't seen the second generation lite switch, so I don't know how they improved it. The problems lies in the amp load heating the insides of the early switches, hence the relays. Possibly this is cured in the second gen switch. I'm sure some second gen guys are lurking here somwhere, feel free to input. Tim

 

[Tim1]

You know, possible the second gen system has relays in the system to take the load off the switch. If this is the case, you will not gain anything by using the switch meant for relays in your truck. Tim

 

[Paychk]

Tim



What was done, was to chrome the contacts on the switch, to better resist arcing. I think the switch has the same ampacity so the best possible cure is to add in relays, especially if your rig has extra lights like the Duallys'.

 

[SSingleton]

Does anyone know whether the 2nd gen switch will plug into the 1st gen connector? Or do I need to buy the kit that has the connector with it? It's much more $$.