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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission heater

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Temperature Control

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Power gone in some spots

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There's a blend door that can get stuck. The door itself is plastic with a plastic coupler and an electric motor actuator. The coupler or door itself can break so it stops moving. There's also 2 vacuum actuated mode doors that direct the air to floor-dash-defrost. I'm not sure how accessible the blend door is. The instructions for removing the blend door starts with remove the instrument panel....
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A few more pictures...
 
Thanks for the replies . I wish there was a shop I could trust to check it out for me I have the manual but im not really sure what to do with it .
 
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You can get to the blend door motor from under the heater you will have to remove the air bag unit and to get the blend door motor off there are 3 screws to get to the back
one you have to be creative but it can be done than the motor comes out and the bushing will come out it is most likely got a crack I have seen this twice
the bushing is about $15.00 and you will wonder why there is nothing to it. GOOD LUCK
 
Ok I took some temperature readings with my infrared thermometer and here's what I came up with 135 degrees on the heater hose closest to the cylinder head 121 degrees on the hose that is closest to the turbo . 181 degrees at the thermostat housing and 138 degrees on the upper radiator hose .
 
Thanks for all the replies I am going to try to fix the blend door when I get a minute . I just ran the temp readings because the manual says if the one heater hose is a lot cooler than the other the heater core may be plugged so it doesnt look like that is the prboblem it must be the blend door
 
Thanks for all the replies I am going to try to fix the blend door when I get a minute . I just ran the temp readings because the manual says if the one heater hose is a lot cooler than the other the heater core may be plugged so it doesnt look like that is the prboblem it must be the blend door
 
Ok I took some temperature readings with my infrared thermometer and here's what I came up with 135 degrees on the heater hose closest to the cylinder head 121 degrees on the hose that is closest to the turbo . 181 degrees at the thermostat housing and 138 degrees on the upper radiator hose .
Your t stat was not open yet. Let it warm up more to be sure the core is at full temp then check heater outlet temp
 
heater performance specs
Temperature Reference
Ambient Air Temperature 15.5° C(60° F) 21.1° C(70° F) 26.6° C(80° F) 32.2° C(90° F)
Minimum Air Temperature at Floor Outlet 62.2° C(144° F) 63.8° C(147° F) 65.5° C(150° F) 67.2° C(153° F)
 
My floor to temperature is 70 degrees might as well not have the heat on this was at the above temperatures I posted and after driving the truck for several hours I have the engine fan removed and the radiator partially covered
 
Tested the antifreeze just now it's good for 40 below zero straight antifreeze won't register will it? I am going to try flushing the core when it warms up some been 15 below the last couple days . I bet the core is plugged the guy I got the truck from said it was leaking and I'm thinking that he used some stop leak to slow it up do he could sell it my engine temp goes up fast faster than any other cummins Ive owned which makes me think it's got a fair amount of stop leak in it I know when Ive put stop leak in other engines that's how they will react .
 
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