Help! 250 miles away from home with transmission problems

[Mpoland]

I am in need of advice. Pulling a 9K TT, my transmission started jumping in and out of TC Lock. I was running on level road about 60 to 65 MPH. Needless to say the fluid heated up. I flipped my TC "magic" switch, and the TC stayed locked up, fluid cooled down, with no further problems.

Later got into some hilly country, coming out of a town, and TC would NOT lock up... (shifting from 2nd to 3rd). . without the manual switch engaged.

After dropping the trailer, the transmission works like a champ. Not a hint of a problem without pulling a load.

Question to anyone, first off, any idea what the problem and/or fix might be? Second, and more importantly, can I pull my trailer back home, using the TC Manual switch, with success, and without further damage to the transmission?

Thanks for you help!

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99' Quad Cab, ETC, Auto, 4. 10 LS, Di Pricol EGT, Boost, & Trans Temp. Gauges (from TST), 275 Injectors, Practical Solutions Boost Module/Elbow, Torque Converter Lockup Switch, with complete AMSOIL fluids.
NRA Member
Semper Fi

 

[Joe G.]

It sounds like the TPS is the problem. Are you running with the cruise control on? Try cleaning the TPS with some contact cleaner and see if that helps. You should be able to make it home ok, but be careful of pulling hard with the TCC manually locked up.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[rotohead]

According to my transmission guru, Clay Carrington, my TPS is probably going bad too but I fixed mine temporarily but unhooking my batteries (I left them that way overnite) and that fixed it so far (about two months now). My TC would lock/unlock in all conditions. Maybe worth a try.
Chuck

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'98. 5 2500 QC ISB 4x4 SLT, Auto DTT TC & VB, JRE 4" exhaust w/5"Tip, DD II's w/Module&Elbow, VA box, Rancho 9000's w/in cab adjust, Mag-Hytec trans&diff covers, Jacobs E-Brake w/BD autoloc, trans temp, boost & EGT gauges, 2Low Kit, Air Horns, Catz MSX, Drawtite Front Hitch, Brite Box, Steel Horse Billet Grilles, AirBullDog hood induction system, Brandon's stainless steel fuel lines, Intake heater system saver

 

[Mopar-muscle]

roto , you more than likely need to have TSB 18-02-99 done if it hasn't been done , look on fritzs sight . here is a link to it :
http://dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/1999/18-02-99.htm

M. POLAND , that switch is going to be DESTROY the clutch lining of the TC , manually looking your TC is the WORST thing you can do . have you had the reflash i mentioned above done ? if not check it out and check the build date of your truck ... do your self a favor , remove that switch and throw it out . i'm going to assume your trans is still stock ? though 275's isn't a ton extra power modifying your trans will be the best money you could spend ... you know who to call .

 

[rotohead]

I've had that reflash done twice now, once before I unhooked the batteries and once after. So far, with my new DTT trans mods, I'll holding lockup well under all conditions. Still leary though.
Chuck

 

[rotohead]

Now that I think about it that first reflash was done by one of those *5* star dealers that left my stock airbox open. They had no reason to be in my airbox either, that's why I drive hour and a half to a small dealer rather than 10 min down the road from me. Maybe they never did that first reflash? My records show they did it.

 

[TowPro]

Sure they had reason, when any vehicial came in my shop I used to check for things like clogged air filter, bad hoses/belts, wipers bad, condition of oil, etc. 6 out of every 10 cars needs something, and 9 out of 10 owners were HAPPY I took the time to look, and usualy wanted the problem repaired, and better yet, then came back the next time they had problems!

The only difference is I knew how to put the air box lid back on!

Originally posted by rotohead:
Now that I think about it that first reflash was done by one of those *5* star dealers that left my stock airbox open. They had no reason to be in my airbox either,

 

[Mpoland]

Mopar:
You have been the first to tell me that my TC Lock-up switch is a bad thing. I can understand that "overuse" of this switch... would be bad, however in this situation, it really pulled my fat out of the fire. Now please correct me if I am wrong, but, if the computer is telling the TC to un-lock, when it shouldn't, manually tell the TC to stay locked up... . should be a good thing. In any case, I presently have no other option, but to start on the trip home..... in this condition.

I was wrong with my first layout of the problem. The truck will lose TCC lock-up even unloaded and on level ground. I haven't noticed it happening with the O/D switched off... . but pulling with the O/D switched off, I'm turning something like 2300rpms @ 45 mph. That's NO way to be pulling down an interstate!

I did call a local Dealer, about the reflash. They quoted me, $65. 00 diagnostic fee, plus a $65. 00 fee to do the reflash. That doubling of the price, for something that was wrong with their equipment in the first place, ticked me off! (So yes, I'm dumb enough to start out on a trip home, without it being done. ) Is this a normal way dealers charge their customers?

Rotohead: What DTT Trans mods have you had done, and the cost?

Thanks for the input, and wish me luck!!!



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99' Quad Cab, ETC, Auto, 4. 10 LS, Di Pricol EGT, Boost, & Trans Temp. Gauges (from TST), 275 Injectors, Practical Solutions Boost Module/Elbow, Torque Converter Lockup Switch, with complete AMSOIL fluids.
NRA Member
Semper Fi

 

[Mopar-muscle]

m. poland , when i first got my ram i couldn't wait till the TC locked , my DTT TC made the lockup just another hohum shift , not the big rush it used to be , and i have a TON O'HP now .

the computer has the TC unlock for a reason , , along with allowing a down shift which i believe it won't do with TC locked , so you are lugging your engine and causing the TC clutch to slip . besides the fact that 99 and earlier won't lockup in 3rd if OD is not locked out . it waits till the shift into OD , 2000 that changed , my trans will shift will lock in 3rd with the right throttle position . also am i understanding you correctly , you expect the trans to shift from 2 to 3 with the TC locked ? this is in your original post , if so thats not the case and again the trans wasn't designed to do that .

now that i reread your post its the tsb that is your problem , stop at another dealer ANYWHERE and get it done .

as far as that dealer goes , thats BS , what diagnositic time , print out the TSB , hand it to them and tell them to do it , problem solved and they KNOW it has to be done , if they don't find another dealer .

good luck .

[This message has been edited by Mopar-muscle (edited 05-16-2001). ]

 

[Mpoland]

Well, folks I made it home oaky. As the truck would shift into TCC Lock, i. e. around 45mph, I'd throw the TC Lock-up switch. If it wasn't for the switch, I'd never made it.

After reading the TSB, this reflash is to prevent the TCC from un-locking due to electrical noise. It states: "look to see if the TPS volts are fluctuating by 0. 2 volts or more". I have a question, can one check this out by reading a voltmeter, while the TCC is locking and unlocking?

Another point, or question, when you were talking about the TPS... . were you meaning the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor)?
That is all that I find in the Service manual. Being an electrical tech, it seemed likly to be a "dirty" pot, however the manual has a danager warning saying that the APPS is calibrated and removal would "kill" the calibration. Replacement is only by changing almost everything! How was anyone able to clean it with contact cleaner?

Thanks for any input.


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99' Quad Cab, ETC, Auto, 4. 10 LS, Di Pricol EGT, Boost, & Trans Temp. Gauges (from TST), 275 Injectors, Practical Solutions Boost Module/Elbow, Torque Converter Lockup Switch, with complete AMSOIL fluids.
NRA Member
Semper Fi

 

[Mopar-muscle]

M... did you check the build date of your truck to see if it falls within the dates in the TSB ? no need to try to take it apart , just get the reflash and ditch that switch , unless of course you prefer to burn up you TC and possibly the trans , thats your choice .

 

[Joe G.]

MM,

I disagree. If you use the switch properly it's a big help. Towing heavy loads or drag racing with it on WILL tear up things of course. I've used mine mostly for my PacBrake for a long time. It works fine for that. I have mine rigged so that it's real easy to turn off and on while I'm driving. The ground to the switch is routed thru a push button on the floor that all I have to do to disconnect it is step on the button. The switch on the dash is used as a master switch and the button is the control.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[rod77zilla]

Whatever you do, do not overheat the transmission! I work at a transmission shop and I see 1 ctd a month. Every one I see has either overheated it or drowned it in some mudhole. I will post something about how to get rid of some factory defects in a little while

 

[Mopar-muscle]

joe you can disagree , you better erase that post , Bill K. sees it and any warranty claim you may have had is out the window , he in no uncertian terms wants his TC used with a mystery switch , yes its your truck , but its his warranty money .

as far as the switch , unfortunatly the proper way to use lockup with an e brake is costly , and many go the route you have to save a buck .

also as you will note , that switch isn't needed with a DTT TC , runs much cooler even unlocked .

 

[Joe G.]

MM,

Bill knows about my switch and how I use it. We have discussed it via e-mail. He also has my old stock TC as a core so he can take a look (I've asked him to) and see if there is any damage from the way I drive it. It was showing no signs of problems. That stock TC had about 80K on it when I replaced it. It is not the original. Problems caused by a bad TPS caused the original to fail. The original was only used a short time with the switch and it did not contribute to the problem. The TPS caused failure was not internal but sheared off mounting bolts from a severe hammering condition when towing. Actually, using the switch would have prevented that failure, but that is another story.

 

[Mopar-muscle]

joe , that post will probably cause more than a few to add the switch , what will happen is anyones guess . its the persons problem , if they want to add a switch fine .

i for one will not use one ,i tell my customers not to use one , if they have one i will disable it , tell them not to use it and i inform bill who has one , i tell them if they use it and smoke the clutch don't come back to me , call bill and you and he can deal with it .

we could go back and forth on this , whats good for one person is not good for others . to each his own .

good day