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Help! fuel filter replacement

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Installed a DTT Valve Body Today

convex mirror makes me dizzy

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Does anyone out there have any instruactions on fuel filter replacement? 96 model

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96,2WD 3/4t ext. cab-DC,just added DTT torque convertor with valve body,tst #4,full pillar guages,5th wheel setup
wanting to add 2-3 lift, and rig style volosity stacks. Dynoed Horse power?
 
az,

I've done it a couple times -- not an expert but here's my best hints.

Drain some fuel out by pushing up the water-in-fuel sensor assembly. Then unscrew the water-in-fuel sensor assembly (disconnect the wiring first). I was able to maneuver an oil filter strap wrench onto the filter to unscrew it -- not easy but it can be done. There are a couple gaskets that are used -- look at the old filter to see where they go. Some guys say don't put in any fuel in the new filter because it could introduce contamination. I don't know if that's true; it depends on which way the fuel flows through the filter. In any case, I fill it about halfway full before installing it. Restart the filter on the filter head and tighten snugly with the strap wrench. Reattach the water-in-fuel assembly and connect the wiring.

If you can find the plunger on the lift pump, push it repeatedly to prime the system. Otherwise, use the starter (be careful not to crank the starter more than 30 seconds).

I'm sure you will get other ideas but this is my $. 02

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.
 
Check my reply at:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/003602.html

Since you have a '96 I would add that you can take the nuts off that fasten the master cylinder to the vacuum booster and lean it to one side to give yourself more room to work.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
 
Use a litre or quart bottle (empty - water) to catch the diesel you let out. I would empty all the fuel into the bottle, this way it has been filtered. Remove/replace canister any way you want or easiest for you. Remember to put oil on O-ring like the oil filter and as recommende by other members tighten it more than instruction's say to.
You have the option of pouring some of the fuel back into filter or all into tank. You will neeed to prime the filter with primer button.

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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000
 
A new trick a fellow told me about I haven't tried. After installing the new filter remove the inlet bleed screw and crack the outlet one, you can then use a pump type hand oilier filled with diesel to fill the filter though the inlet screw hole. The guy said it was much faster and easier than pumping the lift pump. I personally just fill the filter most of the way with fuel before installing, it only takes a few pumps of the lift pump to fill then. Removing the two nuts that hold the brake booster and swinging it out of the way makes the job much easier.
 
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