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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) HELP! Speedometer. Brake light and ABS

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This started with the brake light and ABS light coming on. Then the speedometer starting acting up, then the cruise control quit working, I get DTCs 1693 and 1603 (I think it is 1603 I took them a month ago).



I have changed the ABS sensor on the rear end, checked the wiring from the ABS switch to the engine compartment for continuity, checked all the fuses, changed the Cam Position sensor and I still have a speedometer that goes to zero when I accelerate and when I let off it goes up to my approximate speed. The Brake light and ABS still come on. However, when I checked this afternoon I did not have an y DTCs stored.



I hope I have used the right terminology for the parts.



I am at a loss and I am going on a long trip this weekend and the cruise is my only hope for not getting a speeding ticket.



Any help would be appreciated.



Paul Harlacher
 
The speedo gets it's signal from the abs sensor on the rear diff so there's your problem. Bad sensor, bad connector, bad wire, or bad tone ring. With my 1500 the limited slip clutches came apart and chipped the tone ring.
 
Thanks Road Dog, I thought it got its signal from the Cam Position sensor. I replaced the ABS sensor and checked the wires a couple of weeks back.

I will drain the oil, pull the cover and check the tone ring. Is it hard to change?

Paul
 
The codes for the ABS module require a special scan tool tool to access so you won't see them. I don't know about the tone ring on the D70. On the Chrysler 9 1/4 it's a press fit on the carrier (it's the same size as the ring gear). The local shop will knock off the old one, freeze the carrier (to shrink the metal), bake the tone ring (to expand it) and then fit the two together.
 
Start with

Start with just replacing the sensor on top of the front of the rear end. Make sure you get it all the way down in there and then bolt it back down. A rubber mallet will usually help get it the rest of the way down. If that doesnt work... Then you can move on to other possible options.

Craig
 
Put a ohmmeter across the unplugged rear differential sensor. It should read somewhere around 1800 ohms if good. A bad sensor will usually read open.



Dave
 
The sensor is brand new; I drained the differential, wire brushed the exciter ring. I don't know what a good exciter rings looks like, this one was flat but it looked like that is the way is was made. I did not find any metal that would make me think I had internal damage. I sprayed everything with Napa engine cleaner and put the cover back on. Still the same.

I checked the old sensor and it had 1730 ohms across it. I am going to pull the new one today and check it. I am also going to make sure it is seated good. When I pulled it out the last time; ( I have had it out a couple of times) it looked like there was dirt under the seating surface.

If that does not work; what should I do next. I am leaving for Virginia at 5 AM tomorrow. Cruise would be nice.

Paul
 
New sensor has 1990 Ohms, over 1800. Is this close enough to around 1800? I hope so, it is going back in all cleaned and seated "well".

Paul
 
Wiring

Follow the wire harness from the senso up to the front of the truck. I just remember that I had to fix mine. It was rubbing on something & had chaffed enough to break one of the wires. Seems like it runs up the drivers side. I think the spot where it chaffed was inside the drivers side rear wheel well. See what you can come up with there maybe?

Craig
 
Thanks for all the help. It is fixed. It appears that my 1999 Dodge does not use a 1999 ABS Speed Sensor. It uses a 1998 Speed Sensor. The 1999 Sensor that looks like the one that should work does not; however, the 1998 Sensor with the wrong wires, that has to be spliced in, is the one that works.

I am sure that Dodge saved a couple of bucks per unit for not changing it until the next model year.

The extra time and money I spent finding this out was many hours and a couple of hundred bucks.

If the Cummins came in a Ford I would buy one tomorrow. Let Obama keep his Dodges and GMs. How is a man suppossed to know what parts his 98. 5 Dodge takes if Dodge doesn't know.

F()!^# P!$$es me off. Sorry but I just don't have money and time to throw away.

Again, Thank all of you for your help and I hope someone else can save themselves some headaches by buying the right part.

Paul
 
Dodge changes the body on the model year and the drivetrain/mechanical on the half year. Plus they use up the old parts before changing to the new. That's why the dealer parts department always wants the VIN and jobbers get it wrong all the time. For example, my [Nov] '98 had a '97 exhaust system.
 
I guess I am stuck with going to the Dodge dealer. This last sensor I bought is real close but not right. I am sure it will cost me three times as much. Thanks for the help; I thought for sure I had it.
 
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