Help with Motor Mount R&R

[Sandflea]

The bolt that attaches the passenger side engine mount insulator to the engine mount bracket fell out after the mounting bracket threads holding it in corroded completely.



I was looking through the Haynes manual and it says the proper procedure is to raise the front of the truck on jack stands, drain the oil, remove the oil filter, remove the engine cooling fan, and on my 4WD remove the front axle assembly for the passenger side mount. I also need to use an engine hoist to support the engine from the top.



Is there a simpler way to do this? I couldn't find anything in the TDR online issues regarding this replacement. Can I not simply take the load off the existing mounts by supporting the engine from underneath the oil pan? Do I need to drain the oil and remove the front axle assembly? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Prairie Dog]

You mean they didn't start with the quintessential; Disconnect negative battery terminal? :-laf

 

[Sandflea]

Whoops. Missed that!

 

[The patriot]

If you raise the truck by the K frame, you could us wood blocks under the SIDES of the oil pan and CAREFULLY lower the truck to where you need it.



Same effect as raising the engine.

 

[Sandflea]

That's an intriguing idea, but if I need to play around with the height to get the bolts back in place, I think it might be more precise jacking the 700# engine up and down slightly rather than the 7000# truck. If I had a fully equipped garage with lift or better yet an overhead hoist, maybe, but I'm using bottle jacks and jack stands. Either way, I'm still not sure if I need to drain the oil, remove the oil filter, front axle assembly and cooling fan like the Haynes manual indicates.

 

[Bob4x4]

Do not lift on the oil pan... . it will collapse

the crank will hit it

Lift from the rails or on the pass side the

Ac bracket

Both sides should be lifted at tha same time

 

[Bob4x4]

That's an intriguing idea, but if I need to play around with the height to get the bolts back in place, I think it might be more precise jacking the 700# engine up and down slightly rather than the 7000# truck. If I had a fully equipped garage with lift or better yet an overhead hoist, maybe, but I'm using bottle jacks and jack stands. Either way, I'm still not sure if I need to drain the oil, remove the oil filter, front axle assembly and cooling fan like the Haynes manual indicates.

Closer to 1100 lbs

 

[Sandflea]

Much obliged, Bob. Do you mean the truck's outer frame rails, or the rail around the perimeter of the oil pan where the oil pan bolts are? Also, do I need to drain the oil, and remove all the stuff the Haynes manual says? Thanks again!

 

[sag2]

No you don't. You just need to raise the engine from an area of support like the oil pan rails to the block. Like it was mentioned, if you try and jack up the engine from the pan you risk bending it even if supported by wood blocks. With the axle in the way you might have to get creative with wood and jack placement. You can lift several inches before you contact the fan. Go slow and watch the top side so you don't break anything. Lifting from the front pulley is also not a good idea as it is way too much bending stress on the nose of the crank.

 

[Sandflea]

Thanks to all for your input. I also got some helpful feedback from Jim Anderson at TDR along the same lines. I'll give it a try this weekend.

 

[Bob4x4]

Just be sure you lift both sides evenly and drop both sides evenly for the bolts to line up in their Saddles properly

 

[Sandflea]

Thanks Bob. Will do.