Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help With Neighbors 95, Again

[dusthomps]

Well, after taking the advice of everyone who posted the last time I needed help, my neighbors '95 2500 is running like it should again. Turned out to be the lift pump, overflow valve, and the wastegate actuator. I installed a boost gauge before I started working on everything and I was lucky to get 12-14 psi out of the old girl.



Now to my current situation. When I picked up te overflow valve at the local Cummins dealer, he told me a new fuel plate was not needed to increase fueling and just a screw needed to be adjusted like on the first gens? Now I admit when it comes to these pickups, I'm almost lost. Is there a screw I can adjust and if so where is it located? If not, which number fuel plate would be a good choice for this pickup? This truck spends it life on the road pulling a 14ft enclosed trailer that totals about 7500 lbs. My next questions is which injectors would be a good choice, and also if I should change the exhaust housing to something bigger? My last question is this truck had a new transmission installed in '99 (auto) and this thing is terrible. It hangs and searches for gears like nothing I've ever seen. Is there any adjustments or help for this thing?



Thanks to all tose in advance for any help as these trucks are not in my general line.





Dustin

 

[Joe G.]

There is a screw, but it won't help with power. It's the fast idle screw. It will let the engine run faster with no load. A full load throttle stop (AKA torque plate) is needed to add power.



A #6 plate is the maximum recommended for a stock auto. IF the auto is beefed up then a #5 or #10 will work well.



There are some adjustments for the 47RH which is the transmission in the '95. It depends on just what it is doing to determine what adjustments are needed. It's a good idea to hose down the shaft of the TPS with contact cleaner and work the linkage some every so often. Band ajustment and kick down cable adjustment affect shifts too.

 

[TFlower]

Stay away from the dorks at Cummins. I was having a major idling problem recently. They told me that I needed a new $4000 fuel injection pump. Turned out to be the overflow valve! (Thanks BigHammer). Since then, I have done some rather extensive research with the boys at Cummins and have found that Cummins is a great company, but try and find anyone that knows which end of the shovel is which that works at one of the repair facilities.

Call Piers or any one of the very knowledgeable people that have custom diesel companies all over the states.

 

[bighammer]

It sounds like he thought you had the old 1st gen engine and not a p pump version. I think those are just turned up with a screw adjustment.



TFlower, so it's still going strong? You DO realize the $20 overlflow valve would've been included with the $4000 injection pump.

 

[Extreme1]

Make sure the throttle is opening all the way.



Make sure the TV cable has about 1/8 or less freeplay at WOT.



Test the TPS resistance. IF it is out of limits, try cleaning it.



A couple things I disagree with that are stated above: Don't adjust the bands. They don't wear and the adjustment made when the trans was built is more precise that what you can do with the trnas in the vehicle (if you follow the FSM instructions). Also, I wouldn't hose down the TPS unless you have tested the resistance and it's messed up. If it's OK and you hose it down, you might wash some material into a place that WILL cause problems.

 

[Joe G.]

He reports a shifting problem. That can happen if the bands are out of adjustment. If the transmission was a new one from Dodge and not a rebuilt it probably is adjusted ok. The installer may have "touched up" the adjustment. He doesn't say what his shift problem is.



Cleaning the TPS will help take care of a "ratty" signal. My TPS checked ok for voltage, but I had a problem with locking and unlocking. The voltage was spiky on a scope when the throttle was moved. Cleaning it cleared it up.