Help with weight distributing hitch setup.

[Yo Hoot]

It just seem like this hitch doesn't have an optimum ball height for my truck/trailer combination.



When I had the hitch flipped up and the ball carrier at the lowest position, it seemed like the ball is too high... trailer was level but the front of the truck was up. Tightening the bars raises the trailer tongue.



I flipped the ball hitch down and put the ball carrier in it's highest position and now it seems too low. Trailer tongue is down and the front of the truck is up. How far do you go with the chains... what is too much on the bars?



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[MMeier]

Looks like you may need the insert that has both drop and rise straddling the center . By the looks of that little trailer , you should shoot for about a 19, ~1-2", ball height... . ground to top of ball . The bars should be just about level when all is set up correctly, your pic shows they are tweaked up too much . Make sense ??

 

[Yo Hoot]

Yes that makes total sense. I guess I'll have to buy a new insert that allows a mid point bolt-on. It's a Nash 26X, 7000 dry and 10,000 GVW. I read it's a little tongue heavy.

I tweeked the bars another link and the truck got almost level. Any negative to bowing those bars?

Another fellow suggested I add air bags.

This is what it looks like with the truck unhooked and the trailer level. . if I flip the insert the ball is higher than the tongue.

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[GAmes]

I never tow the same trailer twice, so I have to make slight adjustments every time I hook up a TT. Here is what I would do with yours. Flip the stinger back up . Using the tongue jack level the trailer, then raise it another half inch or so. Install the ball at that height. Lift the trailer tongue high enough to back your truck under the the coupler. With the ball under the coupler lower the trailer until it is about a 1/4 inch from seating. Attach the chains to the snap-up brackets with enough links to be able to force the bracket up by hand. With both chains attached put all the weight on the hitch. If the front weighs enough to drop the hitch too low use a lever to make the chains one link shorter. The tighter you have the chains, the rougher the ride BTW. Works for me.

 

[MMeier]

IMO, it puts undue stress on the trunnion... or whatever you want to call the part they slip into on the hitch. Just for gits and shiggles, unhook the trailer from the truck and get a measurement of how high the ball will be. Does the truck still have the stock springs out back ?

 

[B.G. Smith]

With the trailer unhooked, level the trailer. Back truck up near the trailer coupler and see which way the ball needs to go to hook up. Ideally it should be correct height when trailer is level and truck is level. After you hook up you want enough tension on the bars to level the truck back up. bg

 

[mpaulson]

Air bags will solve all your problems and make the rear of the truck much more stable while towing. As long as you can bolt on the ball mount at the right height, you may still need to replace the drawbar. I'm always cautious of putting to much tnesion on the distributing bars as it puts alot of stress on the trailer frame and loads the trailer axles more which are usually not rated high enougth for the trailer to begin with.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Flip the stinger back up . Using the tongue jack level the trailer, then raise it another half inch or so. Install the ball at that height.

Look at the picture I added with the trailer unhooked, both level. There's about a 5" separation. If I flip it the thing is like 3" higher.
That's the problem. This stinger won't let me get close. I saw one at the RV place that had a full row of holes going above and below center. You wouldn't have to flip it.

This is the one I have. .

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Need one like this. .

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[HookMeUp]

You can use any shank as long as it is rated for the weight of your trailer load. What is the rating of your spring bars? They may not be heavy enough. Another thing is you will need to tilt your head back so that you will have access for the spring bars to move freely. Looking at your first set of pictures your spring bars are above the bottom of the of the frame of the trailer when snapped up which could cause binding issues when cornering. They need to hang below the frame rail. Just my 2 cents.

 

[MMeier]

Hoot, if you buy another brand , make sure the holes are spaced apart the proper amount . More then once when using other peoples 'stuff', I've found there are variations on how they are made . Also, air bags are a very nice addition to any tow rig , IMO .

 

[RVTRKN]

It might be deceiving, but is that receiver bent upwards?

 

[Hoefler]

You need heavier bars, they are bowing too much. The angle of the ball mount/hitch head is very important in getting your preload on the equalizing bars. Level the trailer, set the ball height, hook up to trailer, make trailer level, insert bars and hang on last link, set head angle + one spacer/washer, now start chaining up by dropping links to get level. If you have to drop more than 2 or 3 links, tilt the head more. If you keep dropping links with little or no affect on level, your bars are too light.

 

[Yo Hoot]

It might be deceiving, but is that receiver bent upwards?

Yes, it's bent a little from yanking trees and shrubs out

Hoefler,

That description helps alot. First things first though is get the ball the same height as the level trailer. Means I have to get a new "stinger".

I was confused as to how the angle adjustment was to be used. Thanks for explaining it.

How about tire pressure. Got the Carlisle tires D rated. Looks like 2450 at 65 psi. They had 40 psi in them. They looked a little too squashed so I raised it to 60. Any bad effects of running on the high end of the pressure range even if I'm only putting 2000 on each?

 

[LandShark]

You need to start with the basics: Weight the trailer and get the weight on each axle and the tongue. Tongue weight needs to be between 10 and 15% of total trailer weight. If you don't know your weights you will never get this right and never be safe.

Trailer tires generally will need to be run at max rated pressure to obtain rated tire capacity. Some trailer tires are run at max + 10psi for running at highway speeds. Check with the tire maker.

 

[Yo Hoot]

You need to start with the basics: Weight the trailer and get the weight on each axle and the tongue. Tongue weight needs to be between 10 and 15% of total trailer weight. If you don't know your weights you will never get this right and never be safe.



Trailer tires generally will need to be run at max rated pressure to obtain rated tire capacity. Some trailer tires are run at max + 10psi for running at highway speeds. Check with the tire maker.

Who does this type of scaling? A big RV outfit? How do you weigh each axle?



Bare in mind I already pulled this trailer over 400 miles two weeks ago with no issues. I just didn't like the way it was sitting when the ball was high.

 

[HBarlow]

You definitely must change that dropped drawbar. You will hook it on something if you tow over uneven ground the way it is in your photos.

Your trailer is a little too low to pull behind a tall 4x4 Dodge Ram without a special height adjustable draw bar. Ultimately you might want to consider moving the trailer's axles below the springs and even installing spacers at each spring to raise the trailer.

As others mentioned, your trunnion bars look a bit light for the trailer but you really can't use the trunnion bars to lift the trailer that much to compensate for a height mismatch between truck and trailer.

You need the fully adjustable draw bar.

 

[LandShark]

Who does this type of scaling? A big RV outfit? How do you weigh each axle?

Bare in mind I already pulled this trailer over 400 miles two weeks ago with no issues. I just didn't like the way it was sitting when the ball was high.

Around here we have numerous state scales that are closed most of the time, but leave the scales active for anyone to use. Many gravel pits also have scales. Larger truck stops also have scales, but they would be my last choice because they have fees and will usually not let you linger on the scales.

 

[Mark31]

Around here we have numerous state scales that are closed most of the time, but leave the scales active for anyone to use. Many gravel pits also have scales. Larger truck stops also have scales, but they would be my last choice because they have fees and will usually not let you linger on the scales.

If you can show up when the "pay for" scales aren't usually busy, maybe they will let you take some time. "Please" and "thank you" still goes a good ways in this US of A!

 

[Yo Hoot]

Problem solved.

Got the adjustable drawbar today. Brand is Blue Ox. Cost $134. 99

It gave me everything I needed to get it perfect. It does stick down low but I don't want it flipped cause the tailgate hits it when I open it.

Took it for a test drive. Feels great.

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[tempforce]

first: i see your hitch stinger is to long, giving the load extra leverage.

next you need to line up your trailer and hitch ball. measure from the ground to the top of the trailer ball reciever. adjust your hitch ball 1" below the trailer ball height. so that your trailer is front low. that will help control sway. next angle you reciver hitch head so that your arms are parallel with the ground when fully loaded, approx 5-6 links down from the clamps.

i hope with that trailer weight you have the 1000 lb bars. if not, i suggest you get some... if they make 1200 lb bars they would be better.

i'm running a 34' hr with about 10500lbs behind my 1 ton.

my only problem is that i don't feel the weight and end up speeding, if i don't use the cruise control.