High Quality Cargo Trailers

[HParfitt]

Hi,



Looking at a cargo trailer. Not looking for the cheap way out. Looking to get a good trailer with good build quality. It will be used mainly for motorcycle hauling, dirt & street bikes. Looking at adding an rv door and few creature comforts. Awning, air, ect. Most I'll ever haul is 4 bikes and gear so I've been looking at an 18'. I narrowed it down to trailers from 3 companies.



First the Wells Cargo Express Wagon an 8' trailer.



Second the Pace American Conquest a 7' trailer. It's listed as on the website as having an overall width of 7'4" basically it just has fenderettes. My wife liked this cause our old trailer was a 7', with what I'll call 7' axles. Meaning the wheels only stuck out about 1" past the sides of the body on each size. She felt very comfortable in construction zones ect. The trailer was basically as wide as the truck. Now the dealer says that the Conquest may only be available with 102" axles? Especially if I get an axle upgrade.



Third the Car Mate 800HD. An 8' Trailer.



I was initially looking at Haulmark, it's real easy to price one out on the net. My buddy just picked one up and I was looking around on the dealers lot. The dealer was a Haulmark & Car Mate dealer and stocked maybe 100 trailers. I thought the Haulmark build quality wasn't very good. Screws missing, doors rubbing, plywood interior fit was very poor. Little stuff but annoying none the less. The dealer said that for his money he went with a Car Mate. They looked to have very high build quality but I am a little skeptical about the wood framed walls.



What can anybody add from ownership experiences with these companies?



Is it worth upgrading from the base 3500# axles to 5200# or 6000#. I might be close to 7000# fully loaded, but not often. Probably mostly be running about 5000#. I was looking mostly at axle upgrades for bigger brakes and better tires. Both bigger diameter and heavier duty. Had a lot of problems with a race team that I ran with on a trailer with 3500# axles and 15" wheels. They also ran heavy but I thought an axle upgrade might be worth the $'s if your ordering a trailer.



Also what about torsion axles vs spring axles. I've towed a bunch of utility trailers from 14' to 28'. I always thought that spring axles towed great. The trailer seemed to ride very smooth. I recently towed a 24' with 6000# tandem torsion axles to bike week. My first experience with torsion suspension. It only had 3 bikes in it. I used this trailer since my 14' got wiped out in an accident sitting in my driveway by an 18 year old answering a cell phone the week before Daytona. Luckily no bikes were in it. Anyway the trailer was loaded very light but I thought it rode terrible. It seemed to bounce around much worse than any other trailer I evet towed. Also going over any bad bumps you seemed to get 2 distinct hits/jolts as opposed to the spring setup that seems to walk over bumps especially speed bumps. Everybody is telling me torsion is the way to go but I'm not convinced. Anybody with any experience comparing the 2?



I will be using it for about 12,000 miles per year.

 

[y-knot]

Nice to see a fellow atv'r

I have some experience with cargo/auto trailers, I have bought 4 in the past 10 years or so. Hopefully I can help.

You did not say how many ATVs or motorcycles you would be hauling at the same time, which makes a great difference. First the seven (7) foot wide models are cheaper but not very practical. You can not get two (2) ATVs loaded side by side in the smaller seven (7) foot wide trailers. I would stick to the wider trailers and make sure you compare the specifications closely. Many trailers are 102" wide, but inside width varies greatly. I have a 102" and I can just get two ATVs loaded side by side (I run in the sand, and yes I do have wider rims and some with greater then stock off-set). The RV type door is a favorite with me, it looks better and allows the door to be locked from the inside, great option! I have ordered all my trailers, they were, 1-14',1-28',1-32', and 1-36'. The absolute best option for a new trailer is the E-Track running down each side, I like to have one row at 18" off finished floor and one row 48" off the floor. When you order it as a option, they weld it in to the framework, so it looks clean and is very strong. The E-Track makes tyeing anything down a snap. I would also have several D-Ring Ty-downs installed in the floor, together they make a great system. For the cycles, several different manufacturers make front wheel hoops, that are removable. these hoops hold the front wheel securely, and the rear can be tied down with the D-rings or E-Track. I like the fact that you can remove them quickly and easily, increase your hauling needs change.

Another cheap but useful option is roof vents. They help cool the trailer and allow the gassy smell to get out. Also for you, the ramp door should be your option, it makes loading a snap. Not to sure how decked out you want it but these options are not that expensive. Do not get aluminum tread plate flooring, it looks good, but is a pain to maintain, and no one likes walking on it. if you go with a bare, plywood floor remember to paint it before anything gets loaded or dirtied up. This allows the paint to be adsorbed into the wood, which will help protect it and allow quick clean-ups after rides. I usually give it 2 coats. I have only had one trailer with a bare wood floor, the others were all vinyl. This works great too, but adds to the price, I have painted one of mine and a buddies that had wood flooring. Make sure the floor is had of 3/4" treated wood, many like to use cheaper wood here.

For structural strength, I would only buy a trailer that has the side studs 16" on center, and the roof bracing the same. For the floor, most seam to go with the 24" on center, this will do but the main frame needs to be stout. Make sure you consider this when shopping around, many cut corners with smaller steel tubing on the frame, or on the cross-members.

At 18 foot, you will be getting a 2 axle trailer, most likely with 2-3500lb axles. Make sure you think about what you will be hauling. Take the trailers weight and deduct it from the gross vehicle weight, and make sure this is enough weight rating for what you will be hauling. Tools, fuel and extras add up, so think about the whole picture here.

I like Dexter axles, with torsion housings. They keep the trailer low to the ground and tow nice and straight.

I have had really good luck with Hallmark trailers, they have several lines to choose from but all seem to be quality trailers. Good Luck

 

[doppx006]

The only time in my mind springs are superior to torsion is if there is going to be alot of weight stored in the trailer for long periods of time and they are cheaper to replace than torsion. Otherwise torsion springs are much better for towing and handling springed trailers usually pound that junk out of you if they are empty.

 

[MABurns]

See if there is an H&H dealer near you.



www.hhtrailer.com



I have smaller Haulmark and borrow a buddies bigger H&H if I need to move something bigger and it is pretty nice.



Ditto on the torsion axles and E-track, they are must haves.

 

[DJennings]

Check out Thule trailers. They are out of Maine. They are full aluminum and very nice trailers with tons of options. Thule does torsion axles. In my opinion, torsion axles offer a smoother ride. I tow mine with a very light load and it doesn't seem to be that bouncy. My trailer is just a small 12footer but it does have twin 3500lb axles that are torsion sprung.



www.thuletrailers.com

 

[lawdog]

1 word... . FEATHERLITE





Best you can buy, all aluminum 6 year warranty and they stand behind their product... More expensive... yess, but you get what you pay for... I agree on the diamond plate floor. My 40' G'neck Featherlite has the welded aluminum DP floor and it is very slick when wet, nice to hose out, but slick. My floor is 12" on centers and walls 16" on centers with big hat posts. The trailer is built more like a semi trailer

 

[lawdog]

1 word... . FEATHERLITE





Best you can buy, all aluminum 6 year warranty and they stand behind their product... More expensive... yess, but you get what you pay for... I agree on the diamond plate floor. My 40' G'neck Featherlite has the welded aluminum DP floor and it is very slick when wet, nice to hose out, but slick. My floor is 12" on centers and walls 16" on centers with big hat posts. The trailer is built more like a semi trailer



www.fthr.com

 

[MABurns]

I think I have seen that tandam axle 2d gen on I-80 near Clarion..... ?????

 

[JayWm]

Out here on the west coast TPD is the hot ticket. Heard good things about H&H. Can't go wrong with Featherlite. Pace and Haulmark are about the same quality in my opinion. If you are truly going to put 12,000 miles a year on a trailer I'd step up a bit to some of the other brands mentioned. Other issue with brands like Pace and Haulmark is the sidewalls use a Z rail design that I'm told does not work well for adding cabinets or anything else of substance that you may want to mount or anchor to the walls. You may have to spend more up front to get the quality of trailer you want, but at least you will buy it once and be done rather than having to replace it in a few years if it starts falling apart. I like to see full box steel construction as opposed to I beams or C channel type stuff. I like to stand in the rear corner of a trailer and jump up and down and see how much frame flex I see. I like a stiff trailer. When I looked at both Pace and Haulmark, I felt that for a little more money you can get a way better trailer that will allow you to add cabinets, etc at a later date if you don't install them now. And I agree that E track is cool stuff, pricey, but very versatile.

 

[MRay0324]

I think Wells Cargo makes the best trailer for the money. Featherlites are very nice but also very expensive. If you go with Wells or Featherlite you cant go wrong. Never forget the golden rule - you get what you pay for.

 

[DPelletier]

Another vote for the Wells Cargo. My EW1622 Express Wagon has held up beautifully and I take it offroad alot. Build quality is very high; price is reasonable; and changes based on my needs were easily encorporated at the factory.



3500 lbs axles are probably all you need for your load and they ride much better than the optional 5000 lb axles. I doubt you'll ever need 10,000 lbs GVWR hauling ATV's around.



I find the torsion axles to ride much smoother than leaf sprung units. In addition when driving down logging roads and washboard, only the one tire is effected by a pothole rather than the teeter-totter effect you get with a tradtional leaf sprung set-up.



Dave

 

[BigEasy]

I wouldn't give a nickel for a CarMate... I don't care what kind of a warranty they have... you shouldn't have to use a warranty. Those trailers are poorly made junk that won't last 10 years. Their fit-and-finish is about 3rd-grade-level.



I've been EXTREMELY happy with United Expressline and Pace American... both are top notch, absolutely no problems.

 

[sdstriper]

I went with H & H, the best value compared to the rest in my opinion. Check the standard options compared to others, taller inside, wider doors, coated frame, even the plywood walls are installed with some thought put into it. I would buy another in a heart beat, only I would put my order in way in advance next time, had to wait longer than I wanted. I really like the no fastener skin on the thing, sleek looking, the rivets etc on the others makes them look cheap.

 

[kshimizu]

Check out Cargo Express if you're looking for a high quality cargo trailer. They build a nice trailer that handles everyday use and looks good at the same time. All of their trailers are now built with square tubing, no more hat channel frame. Square tube is 20-30% more rigid than hat channel. If you have any questions feel free to contact me. There's also a ton of info on their website.



www.cargoexpress.com