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Homemade rail cap, WOW!!!!!

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Diesel Power said:
i've replaced many bone stock trucks relief valves with rail caps( yes they were bad )--the rail cap does not mean you need power to match it

you must be seeing a lot of trucks with over 100,000 miles. Otherwise for the life of me I don't know why I would want to replace a relief valve with a cap on a stock truck that was under warranty, but then again if someone told me I would make more HP with it... ... ...
 
So when this relief valve starts going bad , what exactly are the symptoms? :confused: My truck lately has a "weird" hot idle upon start up, thing will rattle a bit and sometimes changes RPM , up to 12-1300 then back down, sound familiar?
 
lmills said:
you must be seeing a lot of trucks with over 100,000 miles. Otherwise for the life of me I don't know why I would want to replace a relief valve with a cap on a stock truck that was under warranty, but then again if someone told me I would make more HP with it... ... ...



accually no there newer trucks, i dont know why they are failing, but debris could be an issue? or production flaws
 
MMeier said:
So when this relief valve starts going bad , what exactly are the symptoms? :confused: My truck lately has a "weird" hot idle upon start up, thing will rattle a bit and sometimes changes RPM , up to 12-1300 then back down, sound familiar?



it can be several problems because it will cause other problems soon after it fails, the best way to tell is to pull the banjo off of the valve start the truck look for fluid coming out of the valve (make sure the line is out of the way) then go into your truck and stab the gas if its leaking at all its bad----i say this because the valve is rated at 26,500psi and a stock truck only delivers 23,206psi max also its best to do this when the truck is cold :-laf i usally see the failures at idle, then i replace them with new ones or we cap the rail Oo.
 
Diesel Power said:
gettin restless are we... ... ... ..... :D

Maybe, just getting sick and tired of the almost daily "WTF is the truck going to do today" syndrome. #@$%! Seems every time I turn around lately, it has something new in store for me. And I rely on it for work right now also.
 
I know I'm giving up some hp by not running a rail cap but I'm afraid to run one every day on stock injectors.

It would be good to be able to switch the rail cap off for every day and on for racing like I do with my pressure box.
 
Ok, guys. Sorry I haven't had time to get on here. All I did was make a 12mm bolt and screwed it in where the banjo and return line goes in the top of the valve. Then I took another bolt and nut with a crush washer on each side to seal up the return line. Cost me less than $1. And it takes about 3 minutes to put it back to stock. And yes, I'm thinking a solid bolt will hold the pressure fine if that relief valve body will hold it. Thats just a myth to try to get you guys to spend $100 on something that costs $1. You can buy a 12mm bolt at just about any hardware store. I just made my own because I have a lathe and they didn't carry one short enough at the hardware store.
 
Black, so you just blocked off the return line where it was originally attached to the valve, correct? what size threads are on the valve itself where it screws into the rail? Couldn't we just take the valve out all together and go that route, would leave more room to block off that return line also, if i'm picturing this correctly.
 
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yes MMeier, I basically just took the banjo bolt out, bent the return line out of the way and stuck a bolt in the hole. You could take the valve out and block that hole I guess. I don't know what the thread is there though. I wanted to leave the valve in place so that way I can just take the bolt out and hook my return back up in just a couple of minutes if I need to. The thread in the top of the valve is 12mmx1. 50 if I remember correctly. I'm positive its 12mm, But I made something else out of 12mmx1. 75 so now I can't remembe which one it is. But I will look tomorrow.
 
There have been some guys that have put dimes in the manifold and then screwed the by pass valve in on top of it. They have reported that the fuel pressure blew a hole through the dime. The bolt can have a problem in that the threads don't seal and high pressure will find its way through and may blow out a copper washer. We have been working on a quick way to block the by pass in which the by pass valve stays in place and the spring is replaced with a steel peg. The hard part is finding metric helcoils to replace the one in the by pass valve. We do have them and this will be the easiest and cheapest way to block the by pass. It looks stock and I doubt anyone would suspect such a mod. Thanks, Brady
 
WOrkin On A Kit

Hey guys I'm workin on a cap for the relief valve on the 3rd gens.



iron out the details and supply availability tomorrow..... also price in a week if all goes well...
 
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