Horn question

[Archive]

I'll be installing my airhorns soon and was wondering how many amps are running through the stock horn lead that you would/could cut into to activate the solenoid for the air horns (basically so that your steering wheel horn button works)? I'm wondering because I plan to run a switch so I can toggle between stock horns for a gentle warning and the airhorns for a not-so-gentle warning.

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by Scooby (edited 09-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

My horns are on back-order, hope to get them soon. Looking to do similar setup as you.

The horn button output should be a pilot duty circuit that just activates the horn relay in the stock setup. Usually a solenoid valve is about the same or slightly more amp draw as a relay. If the switched line from the horn button to the relay is cut and wired through a SPDT switch, you can wire the switch common to the button, one pole to the existing horn relay lead and the other pole to a new wire running to the solenoid valve. The switch will select either the factory horns or the air horns. I would think a 20 gauge wire would be all you would need.

If someone with the horn kit (assuming the Grover horns?) could check on the solenoid valve it should have both voltage and power draw printed on the body somewhere. I'd bet it reads something like 12VDC,10W. Remember W = I x E. If 10 watts you would only have 0. 83 amp at 12 v. A typical DC relay might have a coil draw of 0. 5 amp. Most small toggle switches are rated at least 5 amp, so that shouldn't be a problem.

If anyone sees a problem with this approach please let me know. Thanks.

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Just got my 2001 2500 QC, SB, 4x4, ETH 6-sp, 3. 54 LSD, SLT++ (everything but those lights on top of the roof), White over Silver, Tan leather. Picked it up 8/31/00.

 

[Archive]

I have a real stupid horn question.

Somewhere along the line, the original horn disappeared from from the truck. The Ford dealer I bought the truck from, stuck some pathetic little horn on it for me. I cant hear it over the engine noise.

Pep Boys sells replacement horns in the 132 db range (about 10db higher than OEM). On a 1996 2500:

1) Did they have one or 2 horns?
2) Any idea what notes they were? What notes would sound good, anyway?

Sorry, not ready to do the air horns... yet.

 

[Archive]

Scooby,

It should work.

I operated the solenoid on my Grover setup using the wire from one of the factory horns while I left the second factory horn connected. I ran things this way for about a month with zero problems. I've since put the air horn solenoid on its own button and restored the factory horns.

The solenoid has small (20 ga. ???) leads and I imagine it is a low current item and is not on long enough to get very warm.

The installation instructions from Grover actually mention using the stock horn button by disconnecting the factory horns lead(s) and attaching them to the solenoid.

The only current draw that I've seen mentioned is "approximately 6 amps" for the compressor.

[This message has been edited by Thomas (edited 09-28-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I installed mine last week and wired the solenoid with one of the existing OEM horns. I want to wire the pump to the ignition switch so that it doesn't come on when i chirp the horns with the remote. I find the sound of the pump kinda annoying when the trucks not running. Sounds like it's vibrating the grill. Anyone else hearing this? Maybe I tightened the bolts holding the pump down too tight. ?? Any ideas? <font size=-2>

[This message has been edited by WOWZY (edited 09-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

SkiBum,
Thanks for the info. I found some really "clean" looking switches and they are only rated at 3A. I'll check the solenoid to see if there is any information printed on it.

20 guage wire is pretty small - I'm guessing I won't have any problems using this switch.

WOWZY,
I plan to install a switch to be able to turn off the compressor at will also. This switch will activate a relay and the switch will draw it's 12V from the fuse panel (hot only when ignition is on). That way the compressor won't run unless the ignition is on and I have the switch in the on position as well.

By the way, I finally found a small aux. fuse block that I had used on a previous vehicle. You simply tap off the + battery terminal and then can insert 6 blade fuses to tap off of for power - this may be similar to the painless wiring kit - is it??

 

[Archive]

When I installed my air horns, I sourced the air horns solinoid 12v directly off the 12v lead on one of the factory horns. Works fine. An added bonus is the factory horns are backing up the air horns if the pressure gets too low.

I sourced the compressor 12v from a switched circuit to keep the compressor from running when the engine is not.

As far as the air horns on/off switch, I installed a switch but I have never gone back to the OEM horns. I only use the air horns to remind @#$% drivers to get out of the way of my RAM. Believe me, once you install the air horns, you won't use the factory horns again!

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2001, 3500, 2X4, QC, SLT, Auto, 3. 54 gears, camper and tow packages. Lance model 1130 camper. Rancho 9000 5 Speed shocks. BD Brake, autoloc, presureloc. Hadley (LOUD) air horns. OEM bugshield w/eyebrows. Member San Jose Ram Runners.

 

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I find myself just blowing the horns for the helluvit all the time. I guess alot of people think I'm nuts after they mess their britches! #ad


I have noticed that the smaller horn of the two sounds off a split second before the other one does and sometime sounds off by itself without the longer one. Why does it do this?