Next post on build. So I am actually on my third engine. The first engine I had built by a diesel performance shop that made it 300 miles before it cracked all the way down the passenger side of the block. I did not know this until I went to my grandfather's to show him my new engine. Grandpa is who was a diesel mechanic in his military career, fast forward quite a few years he retired as a lineman foreman, unfortunately got sick and became disabled came disabled and retired early.but he still is very knowledgeable in the heavy duty diesel world, and when I showed him this engine he said why is your paint lifted off the side of the block? I said Gramps I don't know why, so I took a flat tip screwdriver and poked it and coolant was pouring on the ground. The block that they had used to build this was a 53 block that was ground down where the numbers are which I didn't think anything of it the guy seem pretty straight who built it. Took 6 months to get it warrantied finally got the engine back put it back in the truck drove it for 1,000 miles exact, at the time I was working for a big heavy civil construction company building highways as a mechanic fresh out of college and halfway home the truck started getting a knock. I realized that I had good oil pressure that was not diminishing, (meaning no crank or rod bearings were lost), and my coolant temperatures were not rising, so I figured this was a injector knock from a stuck injector which is common on mechanical injectors. I drove it two and a half more hours home, pull all the rockers arms and injectors out sent them off to be pressure tested and checked only to find out they were all garbage. So I bought a set of 250 horsepower ducky fuel injection injectors, Chris luttrell is the one who owns it and he is a great guy. I stuck the injectors in and the knock was still there so I knew it had to be a broken ring or a piston. Used the service truck, yarded the engine out tore the engine apart and on cylinder 5 the oil control ring and combustion rings had broken inbetween them and there's about a 2-in piece of piston that was just slapping between rings. Now normally this would score the cylinder walls terrible, horizontal scratch marks are bad news bears. Rings catch horizontal and cause what i said above. But because this was a vertical scratch after this failure, marks in the cylinder walls after honing it you weren not able to catch it with your fingernail, besides vertical marks can't really catch rings and break them. Thinking this was just a lemon piston, flaws in casting, idk for surel. So I went all out after this happened on my block. I have Pistons from industrial Injection that are ceramic coated and pressure treated. And a stage 2 camshaft, more or less a "towing cam". FYI IF you can measure Piston valve clearance/ protusion, with a cam and if they do not touch you don't need fly cut Pistons. A fire ring head gasket like i have makes a big difference and raises cylinder head a little bit, sometimes enough to clear. A towing cam is not Always big enough on overlap for that to be needed. ALWAYS CHECK TO MAKE SURE. If block had been decked absolutely needs to be checked and that is a catastrophic failure I wish on no one. Pistons from manufacturers are supposed to be perfect fit but you still need to check ring Gap on rings in a cylinder for all of them, no exceptions I do on all c15s, c32s, and mainly what I work on 3516 and c175 caterpillars. With that being said I would take a piston that I was going to put in, let's say cylinder four, come loaded from caterpillar factory , liner, piston and rod in one package and still check it. We are all human and miss some things now and then.
If I had to grind it down with a bench grinder I did it. RING GAP IS ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL NO MATTER THE BRAND OR SIZE. That was 6 years ago I built that block and have yet to have a problem, moral of the story I'm trying to get across, even if a manufacturer tells you it is perfect obviously it was not in my experience which led to thousands of dollars of repairs and thousands of dollars in upgrades to avoid any future failures. only stressing this so much, so someone else doesn't have to learn the way I did. ARP rod bolts are the s@#$!! Next post about block and crank, etc tomorrow
situations.