How Do You Change Headlight Bulbs?

[Alan Reagan]

What do you have to do to change the headlight bulbs in a 3rd Gen. I looked at those things this afternoon while installing my block heater cord and it looks like I would have to pull the headlight assembly.

 

[KCJackson]

According to the FSM, that's exactly what you have to do. Sure defeats the purpose of replaceable bulbs, doesn't it? Sealed beams were easier to change!

 

[Alan Reagan]

Thanks. I assume it's the three screws I found, two torx and a 10mm (guess). Hope there's enough harness to pull them out.

 

[DDiMarco]

There are 3-10 mm bolts that secure the headlight (as your facing the truck looking at the right headlight, one is in the lower left quadrant between the bumper skirt and the headlight assy, and the two others are obvious with the hood up), and a small phillips head screw securing the headlamp assy skirt that is easily removed. The trick is prying the headlight assy straight forward without damaging anything. There are two plastic guide pegs that are easily broken off if you try to pry only one corner forward at a time, inducing a side load on the peg. In addition, there is a forked clip at the top of the headlamp assy that springs outward in it's receptacle (not unlike a dashboard clip). You can remove the left-side tire well and squeeze the clip and push forward to release the headlamp assy but on the right side, its obscured by a panel. That leaves grit-your-teeth and pull like hell on the right-side. I broke one guide peg on each headlamp assy so I speak from experience. It's a total PITA. There is enough service loop to get to the connector and change out the bulb. I am in the process of de-bugging my Summit Racing headlamp wiring harness that isn't working. Don't be duped into thinking that different bulbs are the solution to our awful truck lights; its the wiring. I measured 11. 17 volts at the headlamp; that means about a 25-30% loss in lighting power. If I ever get this harness figured out, I expect 13. 5 volts at the bulbs because its wired directly from the battery with no voltage attenuation.

 

[klenger]

The owner's manual has instructions. They must have felt it was within the average owner's ability to do it.

 

[Bugracing]

Its a straight forward operation and should only take less than 10 minutes per side to remove the light assembly, replace the bulb, and reinstall the assembly. You may want to place a towel between the light and the bumper for protection of both parts.

 

[Alan Reagan]

Thanks for the details. I didn't look in the Owner's Manual. A quick glance made the two on the inboard side look like Torx. Thanks. Everytime I look at this truck, I find a major difference between it and my first two Rams.

 

[ARARAR]

Woman's work

I normally use such task and training aids for my kids; and wife. But I guess it's a matter of ignorance. If you don't know you don't know.

 

[moolie]

now if you have a grill guard with the narrow piping in the front of the lights you are talking about a really great time just to change a stupid bulb

 

[Alan Reagan]

I normally use such task and training aids for my kids; and wife. But I guess it's a matter of ignorance. If you don't know you don't know.

I normally assume that a job like this would be fairly straight forward and simple. On my 01, I just reached behind the headlight assembly and unscrewed the bulb holder. The 3rd gens don't allow access to the rear of the assembly. Maybe my 10 year old can do it, but I was sure that someone on the board here had changed these things could offer some advice so that I wouldn't have to bother her (my 10 year old) with such a trivial job. My bad for not looking in the owners manual but I didn't think of it. I usually go directly to a service manual if I have questions but haven't gotten one of those yet.



But seeing how you had a question a while back concerning how to get the rear differential cover off, we'll call this one even.

 

[bpenrod]

[I am in the process of de-bugging my Summit Racing headlamp wiring harness that isn't working. Don't be duped into thinking that different bulbs are the solution to our awful truck lights; its the wiring. I measured 11. 17 volts at the headlamp; that means about a 25-30% loss in lighting power. If I ever get this harness figured out, I expect 13. 5 volts at the bulbs because its wired directly from the battery with no voltage attenuation. [/QUOTE]



The bright box will give you full voltage to the lamps with no harness to trouble shoot!

 

[Alan Reagan]

bpenrod, I'm surprised that the voltage drop is almost a volt to the headlights. They must regulate the voltage to 12V in the power distribution system. Still, almost a full volt drop is a lot no longer than those harnesses are. Did you check with the engine running or off? Not that it should really matter.

 

[bpenrod]

When it warms up a bit I'll have to check them again, if I remember the engine was off but it was awhile ago and I was just doing a quick check to make sure it worked before putting it together.

 

[bpenrod]

I have also heard that the wire harness will disable the Lamp out feature, has anyone looked into that!

 

[IC Smoke]

Easy fix! Duct tape and a flashlight or two!





:-laf



Ian

 

[NSundance]

With Noah's help I need to ask a question... . Speaking of headlights, I have an '04. 5 with a 6" lift that makes my headlights and fog lights too high... Before I get pulled over again, can anyone tell me how to aim these lower? I have never run into something like this before... Even the dealer couldnt tell me! Also, on the subject, anyone else have the dreaded vibration problem that Dodge knows about but cant fix? I had it before the lift, and still have it even after a driveline shop checked all the U-joint angles, and straightened and rebalanced the driveline (which was way out of round and balance from the factory) Thanks guys



MrBill '04. 5 Cummins 3500 Laramie SB, 6" lift with 35's, bullydog power pup, MBRP stainless 4" exhaust minus cat convertor.

 

[PHeadings]

NSundance I'll get you the thread where this came from:



Hey Rammers,



Just wanted to let you guys know that the factory fog lights CAN be adjusted up and down. If you look at the fog light from the front, at the 12 o'clock position, you will see a T20 torx screw that allows you to raise or lower the light. Tightening the screw raises the aim of the fog light.



In my truck (04. 5), I had to raise my fogs 2 turns as they were pointed into the ground. When reaiming the fogs, I was careful to make sure that the light output skimmed the ground (proper aim for fog lights) so they did not shine into other driver's eyes. I have driven my truck extensively at night since doing this mod without ever being flashed once by oncoming traffic! I also live in snow country and have used the fogs and park lamps (no headlights) in raging blizzards without any problem with stray light.



I don't know how (or if) DC sets fog light aim from the factory - therefore your factory fog aim settings may differ from my truck. If you choose to mess with your aiming screw, it is a good idea to count how much you turn the screw (so you can return to the factory point) AND to road test your lights to make sure they are not pointing up. It is also prudent to realize that if you are carrying a heavy load, to not use the fogs, or to adjust the aim down if you want to use fogs in loaded condition.



IMO, properly aimed lights that are used properly, cause no problems for oncoming drivers.



Respectfully submitted,



Joel Toy

Baker Auto Accessories

970. 879. 4200

 

[PHeadings]

Good stuff, Here ya go:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118748&highlight=headlight+aming

 

[NSundance]

Cali, thanks... . but... The fog lights are the least of the worry. It is my headlights that are waaaaay to high with the 6" lift and 35's. I also have airbags in the rear, but they are pumped up a bit, aiming the headlights down even more... ... Whenever I am behind someone, my lights go right into the rearview, and oncoming traffic always brite lights me, as well as cops pull me over for "having my high beams on" when they are on low..... How can I adjust the headlights on this beast? I havent seen a rig that I couldnt adjust before..... HELP!!!

 

[Alan Reagan]

The headlights are adjusted using the Torx screws on the headlight mounts. Be careful, though. They don't move easily and you will strip out the Torx head if you aren't careful. Just back away from a wall about 50 feet and put the beams where you want them. If that is too far, move in to 25 feet to get a narrower beam width.