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How do you recommend keeping the Cummins engine clean

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Never had a diesel before, but you can eat off all my gas engines, they are that clean. I know it sounds anal (it is anal :) ). What I do with the gas engines is take it to a car wash, (short drive so the engine is not hot) use the engine/tire cleaner spray and then wash it off with low pressure (I don't pull the trigger on the wand). I keep away from the electrical stuff and then armour all, all of the hoses. My question is can I perform this same process on the Cummins without messing it up? I promise in a couple of months I will quit asking these dumb questions :)

Thanks

Denny
 
I caught a good tip on TRUCKIN TV over the weekend.

DON'T spray silicone in your engine compartment to make all that stuff "pretty".

The silicone gets sucked into the intake tract and will screw-up all your engine sensors.



Can't blame it ALL on the K&N huh?

OMYGAWD I've probably started another K&N flamefest, what have I done?:rolleyes: ;) :eek:
 
A while back when training on some Perkins diesel engines, the topic came up about washing diesel engines and injection pumps locking up at the same time. There have been reports of pumps locking up when washing a warm engine due to the fact of cold water hitting the aluminum housings of the pumps when hot/warm causing them to contract and sieze up the internals. It was also noted that the problem was occuring even more as the later model engines started using higher injection pressures to satisfy emissions since the pump has to run harder and hotter.



If you do wash a diesel, then I would recommend doing it on a cold engine. HTH.
 
I wouldnt use any water or alcohol based fluids to clean/wash your engine, it could dry up some seals/gaskets over time.



In the past I have used a rag dipped in motor oil to

wipe off external components on the engine. This seems to work well and will not dry anything up!
 
Hi D Latimer,

I lived in your town about 6 yrs ago. I allways wash my engine off with just plain water unless there is oil on the engine then engine cleaner. If you have not relocated the breather bottle you will need to or the front and driver side will continue to get oily. I have never had any problems cleaning a cool engine. Sam
 
Stay on top of it....

Caveat... . this only works for pavement driven trucks.



The trick is not to let things get away from you so that you have to use cleaners/washers. I've got 21K on my truck in 10 mos. , and the engine compartment looks almost showroom. At least once a week I take maybe 15 minutes to make sure my turbo clamps are tight, and use a California Duster to wipe down the hoses, valve cover, wiring, etc. Maybe once a quarter when I wax, I wipe down the painted hood, radiator, battery, etc. with a damp cloth if needed. Apply a little rubber treatment where needed and that's about it. This engine takes a lot less work than gasser's I've had.
 
Thanks Guys, I will make sure the engine is cold and not use any silicone in the engine compartment, I think I saw that same show. I like the idea about just wiping it down, since it is clean now maybe I can do that and just keep it that way. Only problem is winter and it gets to cold to clean the engine so I might have to degunk in the spring and then maintain until winter. I agree about drying out the rubber and will use a non silicone product to keep it like new. Thanks again for the quick response on the newbie question.



By the way does the engine compartment stay pretty clean on its own or does a lot of dirt get blown up into the engine compartment? I will be on paved roads only. Just wondering? Only had the truck for a month and it still looks clean.

Denny
 
I drive mainly paved roads and find that the engine does stay fairly clean, except for some light dust. Which comes off fairly well with a damp rag. It is much easier once you ditch that bottle.
 
Simple Green.

I just spray a little on my cold Eng. let it soak for a minute, and rinse it off, I cover my alt. and box as to not soak them. A couple times a year and it still looks like new. :rolleyes:
 
Simple Green on a warm (140 deg or less) engine is the best. Hose down the motor with low pressure water, spray on the cleaner, let it sit and do its thing for 10 mins, then hose it down. Simple as that, works great. I got 63K on my 2001, and it looks like new under the hood. :D



Avoid Castrol Super Clean. It is very corrosive, and will damage the clear coat and is very hard on aluminum. :eek:
 
Evan's right, I've been using simple green on my 99 since I bought it and it looks great. It's not no show car great but as good as it was the day I bought it. Make sure to put a bag over the BHAF before cleaning the compartment, and row up the windows on the truck to. :eek: That was one of those long days right there. :mad:



Big D
 
I do basically the same thing except I use Prestone tire foam. I also use it on the frame rails that hang down and all the undercarriage that can be seen and the wheel wells. it keeps everything nice and black without leaving runs and a residue like Armour all or Son of a Gun can leave.



I spray everything down before shamying(sp?) off the truck, that way, all that overspray on the paint doubles as a light wax each time :D
 
Super clean

Is Castrol super clean as bad if you thin with water, I use it to take the gum of my saw blade's it works great. I did use it on my old truck does work well.

Joe
 
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