How Much Horsepower? Clutch Slipping

[JCarroll]

Please look at my signature and tell me how much H. P. this should produce. I have the non HO version truck. My problem is trying to find a clutch that doesn't slip. The one I have is rated for 550 H. P. 1100 lbs. ft. torque. Anything over settings: 3 HP. and 5 Tq. on my TST causes the clutch to slip at around 2000 rpm. Time for a dual disc I guess. Lets see what the supplier of this clutch will do for me since it only has approximately 1000 miles on it. I have upgraded my flywheel to the 13" version for my NV4500.

 

[sick_ram]

I had the same problem your are haveing I had that same cluch. I sliped it the second day I put it in. I went to a southbend dd. It is a street dd. You would love it. You can launch in 4th in four wheel drive and it is very easy to drive on the street just like the single. But you will have to drop about 2 grand for it. But it is worth it. If it is a southbend that you have now He would probily warrenty it for you towrd the dd.

 

[mattymac]

I had the same problem your are haveing I had that same cluch. I sliped it the second day I put it in. I went to a southbend dd. It is a street dd. You would love it. You can launch in 4th in four wheel drive and it is very easy to drive on the street just like the single. But you will have to drop about 2 grand for it. But it is worth it. If it is a southbend that you have now He would probily warrenty it for you towrd the dd.

I thought that the SBC's are feramic?

 

[sick_ram]

They are feramic

 

[Big MAK]

I'd guess you're in the neighborhood of 500 to 550 hp. Limited by the amount of air you can feed it.

 

[Got Smoke?]

SBC's FE & FEW model clutches are full feramic, the Con OFE I believe is feramic on one side and ceramic on the other, and then the Con O is just ceramic... ... ... that's if memory serves me correctly. :-laf



I would recommend you call Peter and see what he has to say. I wouldn't go to a dual disk unless you really NEED one. They shift a little slower and its a little harder to play on the street, and I'm guessing your truck is a daily driver that probably won't be sled pulling. I only went with a DD because I plan to sled pull next year. If my guess is correct talk to Peter and see if he has a single disk that will hold your power.

 

[Fred Swanson]

FE is full feramic, OFE is feramic on flywheel side, organic on pressure plate, O is full organic

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

FE is full feramic, OFE is feramic on flywheel side, organic on pressure plate, O is full organic

Yeah, what fred said



The real trick to the FE clutch is to NEVER slip it on purpose. They dig a hole in the flywheel if you slip them. Side stepping (for the most part) gives them a long life. Heat is their enemy and slippage causes heat. No 3rd gear launched without a DD.



Drive it easy for a few days and it may reseat itself to the flywheel and plate. Try again after a week.



If all else fails call Peter

 

[Fred Swanson]

JCarroll, looking again at your signature, I can assume it is not a SBC. They don't make a Cerametallic clutch. Any good single disk is going to be borderline with the mods you have. Looks also like your still running a stock turbo, too.

From what I've seen and learned, your probably slipping this one in the mid-range? Or is it on the top end?

I'd say step up to a dual disk, for all the right reasons. Slipping, don't think so.



Mark, ahh I'd slip the FE a few times to help break it in. But I know that is not for everyone to do the same. I put 25K hard miles on the FE before the DD 3600. That clutch went into another 03 running about 400HP and was performing great.



The DD has worked perfect. I've had no issues with slippage at any RPM, either. And with the 94-97 hydraulics, it's even better.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

I had one of the first SBC DDs and I loved it. It was carbonic. With out the slippage I was a LITTLE hard on the transmission. If it hooked up it broke... . I had so sell it. I couldn't keep my foot out of it.



TOO MUCH TORQUE. . there is such a thing.



Later,

Mark

 

[mattymac]

Luk makes the ceramitalic right?



But then agin SBC uses Luk parts.

 

[JCarroll]

I contacted the mfg. today and he is making up a new disc for me. Seems my 2-third gear 20 lb. boost 4wd take offs were detrimental to the longevity of this clutch after talking to the mfg. (But man! that joker took off fast) He said slipping it the way I did undoubtably glazed the disc. I will receive my new disc tomorrow. (Another 200. 00) Surface the flywheel and try it again. If it still slips I'll have to switch to a dual disc. I'm running into a lot of cash in clutches now so hopefully this will hold.

 

[mattymac]

Dont you wish that with all the $$$ you spent in single discs you should have just bit the bullet and gotten a DD instead?

 

[JCarroll]

Yep, I usually buy the best and cry once but I was assured that this would hold.

 

[PGoble]

I have the DD Con-FE, rated at 550 hp, 1100 tq. My Dyno was 556 hp, 1126 tq. The ONLY time this clutch has slipped was while I was running the quarter mile on the Dyno. The clutch slipped in 6th gear at the end of the run. On the road, it has never slipped.



Peter

 

[Fred Swanson]

Peter, nice numbers. That's why I went to the 10-button 3600 lb. DD Street Comp. Rated for 650HP.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

Luk makes the ceramitalic right?



But then agin SBC uses Luk parts.

Sbc uses the OEM Luk parts as a base then puts on custom linings. The SBC pressure plates are modified to change the engagement and pedal effort.

Dont you wish that with all the $$$ you spent in single discs you should have just bit the bullet and gotten a DD instead?

Dual Disk clutches hold the power but punish the transmission. the unsprung hubs transfer very harsh shock loads to the transmission. There just isn't enough space to put 2 sprung hubs.



I believe SBC to have the best clutches going but I won't drive anything but an auto over 550hp from here on out. I get tired of replacing parts.



fwiw,

mark

 

[PGoble]

Peter, nice numbers. That's why I went to the 10-button 3600 lb. DD Street Comp. Rated for 650HP.

I talked to Peter at SBC about a DD, and he recommended staying with a single disk for the reasons Mark Kendrick mentioned above. He said 550/1100 is the highest single disk they currently have available, but they are working on one to hold a few more ponies. Peter did say that the hp/tq ratings were based on single turbocharged applications, and that with twins you might slip the clutch with less hp because of the speed with which the twins build power.



Peter

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

I talked to Peter at SBC about a DD, and he recommended staying with a single disk for the reasons Mark Kendrick mentioned above. He said 550/1100 is the highest single disk they currently have available, but they are working on one to hold a few more ponies. Peter did say that the hp/tq ratings were based on single turbocharged applications, and that with twins you might slip the clutch with less hp because of the speed with which the twins build power.



Peter

When you get to that HP level you have to go to a larger input shaft (NV4500) then the input shaft is not the weak link, the transmission is. Add to that the lack of a sprung hub and disaster is soon to follow. In one transmission I twisted off the shaft that the inpushaft inserts into, the next one lost 5 teeth off 3rd and 3 off 4th gear, the last one disintegrated the 5th gear cluster. they almost didn't let me use it as a core .



BTW it takes ~600 hp and a set of baja claws to completely trash an nv4500.



It was a lot of fun playing but it was hard on the pocketbook.



FWIW,

Mark

 

[JCarroll]

I received my new cerametallic disc today, pulled the transmission (Wow! What fun). Found clutch burned badly. I'll have the flywheel resurfaced tomorrow and put it back together. Hopefully no more slippage.