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How to remove silicon?

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Big Horn Mountains

Anyone know of a chemical or solvent that easily removes silicon rubber without damaging painted metal? I use silicon on my chronically leaky oil drain plug and always have a hard time removing it after each oil change. (using silicon is much easier and less expensive than replacing the oil pan!)

I don't like to scrape it too much for fear of scratching the oil pan and eventually causing rust... .

I have heard that gasoline works well.....

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated! :D
 
Cursing , cussing , eventualy throwing sush said effected object :D



wd40 , and a razor blade works then after use brake cleaner to save off the oils left behind so adhesion again is stronger.
 
I personally see no need to use one but in your case I'd consider using one of the several valve type drain plugs that Geno's sells. Silicone it up once and be done with it.
 
Originally posted by sdalton

Just break down and pay the $3. 75 for a new oil plug gasket from a Cummins shop.



Nope, ain't that. NEW heavy duty drain plug and Cummins gasket, and it still leaks..... :(
 
Acetone works great on removing silicone. Either use regular acetone or paint thinners containing it will work. Carefully scrape off what you can and use the acetone to remove the residue.
 
Originally posted by DEZLPWR

Nope, ain't that. NEW heavy duty drain plug and Cummins gasket, and it still leaks..... :(





sounds like either a bigger (universal self tapping pan plug and gasket) or a new pan.



fighting the silicone thing will get old soon, just fix it right and be done with it.



It will cut those oil changes down from 3 to 4 hours trying to get the plug to seal to just a half hour or so





hope you don't mind this coming from a Ford guy



:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:



good luck





:D :D



big jake
 
Try this...

Next oil change, cut a gasket out of sheet material - I use cork right now but have used rubber. Make the OD slightly larger than the factory gasket and punch a hole in the center with a sharpened piece of 3/4" copper pipe.



Put this new gasket between the pan and the factory gasket, and torque to about 25 fl/lbs.



After trying numerous fixes, this is the only thing that worked on my truck. I've been doing it for about three years and never leak a drop. I make up about a dozen gaskets at a time and put a new gasket on at every oil change.



Bob
 
Is the hole cracked? I've heard of a couple of those. Get some dye penatrent and a black light to check. You can get these at some auto parts places. Don't know which ones tho.

WD
 
I'm with WDANIELS, it sounds like you have some more serious problem. Check the threads real good for cracks, on both the plug and pan. If it were me, I would have the original plug welded shut, then tap in a Fumoto valve, with a welded on protector, like a cut off piece of 2 inch pipe around the new valve. .
 
As to the original question, I've had good luck using spray on paint and decal remover and a wire brush to remove a thin layer of silicone sealer.

Jared

oops missed the part about painted metal before I posted
 
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I've had good luck using starting fluid ( ether ). Seems to just crinkle it all up and can then wipe it off with a rag. Just a quick squirt usually does the job. Not sure how bad it is on paint, but cant remember any peeling because of it.



A Johnson
 
Silicon or Silicone?



you can remove Silicon with HF... . (it will also eat the Calcium from your bones)

you can remove Silicone with a putty knife...





sorry... could not resist :p
 
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