How to test leaf springs etc for axle wrap

[Razorhunter]

Early 04 Cummins with 80k miles. Flabed with hydraulic hay baler installed. In a previous life, this truck was used to haul hay bales. That is all I know.
Truck was eating midshaft bearings so I installed 1pc driveshaft just last night. Man what a difference. Smoother shifting (NV5600) and almost makes it feel like better throttle response.
I SHOULD HAVE tested with a gopro camera previously, but didn't. Another guy asked me if I ever figured out the root cause of carrier bearing wear (the rubber mounts always would tear after only 3 weeks of normal driving)
This all got me thinking. IF I do have axle wrap which was eating these carrier bearings, am I now more at risk of hurting transfer case (N271d) with a 1pc driveshaft installed?
I will post a pic later, but I'm not sure if the truck is completely stock back at the leaf springs/axle, or if these short pieces of leaf spring material (stacked to make a block between axle and leaf springs) are added blocks or if they are oem. Truck does t sit high and doesnt appear to be lifted.
Anyhow, how can I test for excessive leaf spring wear, or if there is excessive axle hop/wrap/etc? Can measurements just be taken (loaded or unloaded?) Or can I put a gopro camera under truck and just drive it through the gear shifts to see what is happening?
Do my (probably) worn out shocks come into play at all here? How about the motor mounts? Truck only has 85k miles but I've read that IF it lived a hard life previously, (hauling heavy wet hay bales on bumpy terrain) things like leaf springs and motor mounts can wear out much faster.
How should I approach this and do some testing on my leaf springs, motor mounts, etc?
Should I add torsion/traction bars perhaps?
Thanks for any advice here. I would really appreciate it.

 

[cerberusiam]

You have axle wrap, it is a fact of life with ths springs and engine TQ. However axle wrap is not taking out the carrier bearing, deflection from the TQ is.

Axle wrap cause the nose of the differential to move up and down not sideways. That said if you have worn spring eye bushings, broken springs, broken centering pin, worn shocks or something else that causes the axle to move that WOULD create a bind on the carrier bearing.

 

[Razorhunter]

I can only guess TQ = torque.
So sounds like you're suggesting its engine torque, making the transfer case move thereby taking out carrier bearing?
OR, it could be worn shocks, springs or bushings.
Do I have that right? IF springs, bushings, and shocks are all good, then what should be done? Add traction bars?
Not sure if I mentioned before but I have replaced NV5600 trans mount. Have not replaced motor mounts. Wondering if I should? Visibly, they do not appear broken but I have no idea if they're worn.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, traction bars are an option. If the truck has been used hard pretty much every bushing and\or mount is suspect as it takes the abuse of all the TQ.

 

[04blackcherry]

Looking at the grease pattern at the slip joint on my one piece, there is a fair amount of movement mostly coming from the axle (I assume). I had a small vibration after install so I replaced the extension housing sleeve bearing. That helped. I also had a lot of miles and 2 failed center supports on that slip joint. Drove home both times with a flail for a driveshaft. The sleeve did show wear. Love the one piece.

 

[Razorhunter]

Hey blackcherry, how much trouble was it to install the new sleeve bearing/tailshaft bushing in your transfer case? Was it a N271D like mine? Any special tools needed?

 

[04blackcherry]

The sleeve is pretty thin so you need the right size piece of round stock or tubing, but is just a simple press out and press in. I can't remember if I needed to drain the fluid out before taking off the extension housing. I have the electric shift TC. Maybe it's a 273, but I would think they are the same slip joint size. You would need to decide if it needs one based on your mileage. Sounds like the truck has been used for real stuff, so maybe at 80,000 it should be changed.

 

[cerberusiam]

You can also buy the whole housing with new sleeve and seal for a little it more and not have to fight with the bushing. Check Steve White Motors for 1 source.