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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Hydraboost brake problem

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Timing Tools

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Driver side mirror problem

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I recently started having problems with brake failure. When I come to a stop its like I lose all power assist to the brakes. I just replaced the hydraboost today with a NAPA rebuilt unit. Not to bad a job but problem didn't change. I don't think it is vaccum pump because I never lose steering when I lose the brakes. It is only occasional when it happens. I can be slowing with light pressure on the petal and it suddenly gets hard or impossible to push the petal. Anyone have any ideas?
 
I have read another thread on TDR recently where the guy got a rebuilt from NAPA and still had trouble and then replaced it with a new unit from Hydraboost. Here is the thread:



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120920&page=2&pp=5&highlight=hydroboost



The problem with rebuild units is it may take 2 or 3 to get a good one. I have read several posts about failed rebuilt NAPA hydraboost units. I have a leaking hydroboost and I'm currently waiting to get mine from Hydratech... it will be here next Thursday. Paul at Hydratech is great to work with and they offer 1 day turn-around. Here is the web site:



http://www.hydratechbraking.com/products/



You need to email them or call and ask for an OEM replacement since they offer retrofit and off road kits also and the OEM prices are not on the site.



My 97 hydraboost unit cost $275 new plus shipping. Thats about 1/2 of the new price at Dodge ($520) vs abot $220 for rebuilt. The only problem is you have to send your old one in because they need to transfer the brake pedal rod, firewall bracket and another part from your old unit to their new unit.



I don't know if your problem is the hydraboost unit or not, but the rebuilds are not reliable IMHO. I suppose you could have a bad brake master cylinder.



Good luck,



dave
 
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Hello, I am having the same problem w/ my 99. It is usually when I am making a right turn and trying to stop, the pedal just pushes back and becomes rock hard. The dealer told me it was a kinked brake line w/ a bad ball joint/wheel bearing combo and that it was moving around and causing the abs sensor to go off. New ball joints, new brake line, new bearing (all on front passenger side) and still same problem. I took it up to dodge and we drove around with the DRB2 computer on it, no codes were saved and the abs sensor had not been going off while the prob was happening... . but. . We found that the front driverside ABS sensor was not reading the same as the other wheels while turning or stopping. While cruising, the readings were steady, however when stopping/turning, the sensor would return to 0mph a few seconds before the others. This would trick the sensor into thinking that the truck was losing traction and therefore alert the ABS to engage. Now I am waiting till next paycheck to replace it. Only problem is that dodge sells you the whole hub/bearing/ sensor assembly, not seperate. The front right cost me $350. 00 w/ a discount cause I know the guy who works there, but it's not worth replacing if you aren't sure that it's what is causing the problem. Hope this helps some. Josh
 
kebees4 said:
Can the ABS be disconnected someway to see if the problem goes away?



Yes, you can pull the fuse to the ABS. The ABS/Brake lwarning light will come on and the ABS will be disabled. I would try that before throwing money after a questionable diagnosis like 50rocket88 got. It sounds more like he is having a problem with the Hydroboost unit also.
 
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I am waiting on my second NAPA rebuilt Hydrabooster to come in so I can try it. I hope this fixes it. If not I will disconnect the ABS.
 
Need to read

kebees4 said:
I recently started having problems with brake failure. When I come to a stop its like I lose all power assist to the brakes. I just replaced the hydraboost today with a NAPA rebuilt unit. Not to bad a job but problem didn't change. I don't think it is vaccum pump because I never lose steering when I lose the brakes. It is only occasional when it happens. I can be slowing with light pressure on the petal and it suddenly gets hard or impossible to push the petal. Anyone have any ideas?

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69047
 
Keebes4, your vacuum system has nothing to do with the brakes. Hydraboost means hydraulic boost. It runs off the power steering pump. Do you have oversize tires? If the pump is a liitle weak it may not provide enough output to turn larger tires from a stop and still provide brake boost. .
 
Yes, you can pull the fuse to the ABS. The ABS/Brake lwarning light will come on and the ABS will be disabled. I would try that before throwing money after a questionable diagnosis like 50rocket88 got. It sounds more like he is having a problem with the Hydroboost unit also
.





Well. . good advice. I tried pulling the fuse and my problem is now gone!! I am glad to know now that it for sure is a problem with the ABS sensor. Now... I noticed that my Speedometer doesn't work and my mileage isn't going up either? Looking in my manual, it doesn't say anything except ABS for the fuse I pulled, why would the speedo not work?
 
50rocket88 said:
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Well. . good advice. I tried pulling the fuse and my problem is now gone!! I am glad to know now that it for sure is a problem with the ABS sensor. Now... I noticed that my Speedometer doesn't work and my mileage isn't going up either? Looking in my manual, it doesn't say anything except ABS for the fuse I pulled, why would the speedo not work?



You can try pulling the fuse in the power distribution center under the hood. It shows fuse #11 in the manual. The fuse in the dash apparently also disconnects power to the rear axle speed sensor on the all-wheel ABS trucks.
 
Jetson said:
You can try pulling the fuse in the power distribution center under the hood. It shows fuse #11 in the manual. The fuse in the dash apparently also disconnects power to the rear axle speed sensor on the all-wheel ABS trucks.
The speed sensor/abs sensor on the rear are one and the same. bg
 
If the speed sensor/abs sensor on the rear are the same wouldn't this eliminate the possibility of it being bad if the speedo works all the time. My speedo has never done anything out of the ordinary.
 
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