I flushed my brake fluid today.

[LightmanE300]

Just wanted to post for those that haven't done this or that wondered if they could do it themselves. I have a motive brake bleeder - www.motiveproducts.com and used the universal adapter which works easily/perfectly. I bought the adapter because I had originally purchased the european brake bleeder kit - which threads right on the reservoir cap of my mercedes. In any case, the universal adapter fits our trucks (and any other round capped reservoir I could imagine).



Using the motive couldn't be easier. You attach the bleeder's adapter to the fluid reservoir and pump it up to 15psi (the motive has a little pressure gauge). Then you simply go down to the bleeder valves on the brakes and attach the length of clear hose that comes with the kit, and loosen the bleeder valves. Basically then you just have to let the thing drain until you no longer see the old fluid coming out of the tube, only new/clean fluid. Repeat at the other three wheels and you're done. Pretty easy and definitely only requires one person, no brake pumping, nothing tricky.



I used Valvoline Synpower synthetic dot 3/4 brake fluid - which was the best they had at Advance auto parts. It had the highest wet boiling point of 330F, so that's what I went for.

 

[rbattelle]

Cool! Exactly which model do you have? The 0101? The "Power Bleeder Pro", model 0250 looks very nice... and only $25 more.



I've been looking for a convenient, easy-to-use, effective brake bleeder for years. I've been using a Mityvac... but this power bleeder looks far superior!



-Ryan

 

[Briman]

I have a pressure bleeder I bought from IPD (Volvo folks). It had a screw on fitting that did not fit the Dodge. I bought a spare top for the brake resivour for my pickup at the Dodge dealer and drilled a hole in the center and installed the through hull fitting from the other setup in it. It works just fine to pressure bleed the system. Probley could have saved myself some time buying the piece lightman mentions but I didn't know it existed. I purge the old brake fluid every two years, same as the antifreeze.

 

[LightmanE300]

Ryan, the 0101 is the one to get for our trucks. I actually have the 0100, I bought it 2 or 3 years ago before I had my truck to flush my MB. I just bought the universal adapter for it.

 

[RJOL]

Looks like this would work pretty well. Found it here for $47 and free shipping:



http://www.apexperformance.net/cartgenie/prod-46.htm

 

[LightmanE300]

Rjol that's the exact setup I used - and yes it does work very well.



If you guys have read the instructions on how to use the motive, I should just note that I did it a little differently. Instead of filling the motive reservoir with brake fluid, I left it empty. I pressurized the system, and bled out as much of the old fluid as I safely could (leaving a little in the bottom of the reservoir - can't drain it empty and let air in the system). Then I depressurized, and filled up the reservoir with new fluid all the way to the top, and repressurized to 15psi. This way I was able to bleed 3 of the brakes until I saw clear/new fluid coming out. I then had to depressurize, top off the truck's reservoir one more time all the way to the top, and then bleed the remaining brake out until the brake fluid level in the reservoir was perfect at the full line. Now this may seem like a lot of extra work with all of the pressurizing/filling, however what it does achieve is a perfectly clean brake bleeder that you don't have to clean/wipe out! I'm all about low mess.

 

[Jengle]

Does this cause any problems with the anti-lock system? Is it really this easy? TIA

 

[gtobey]

Pressure Brake Bleeding

I have the Snap-On Unit which looks very much like the ones you linked to. I have used it for years, and that is the only way I bleed brakes, especially since ABS. This is the recommended method for ABS systems to keep the sensors from failing due to moisture int he brake fluid ruining them. One thing I didn't see here was that this also prevents master cylinder failure from cut seals.



The reason this happens is because when the dirt and moisture settles to the bore of the master cylinder, it corrodes the precision machined surfaces and pits them. When you operate your brake pedal normally, it travels only the first 1/4 to 1/3 of the total travel. The water and dirt then reside farther down in the master cylinder bore doing their dirty deeds. When you bleed brakes by pumping the pedal, you are forcing the master cylinder seals to ride over uncharted terrain, the rough pitted bore, and it cuts them.



Not long after bleeding brakes this way, I have seen folks come in to my shop complaining of a spongy pedal and shop "x" had just done a "complete" brake job on their vehicle. They look at me like I have 3 heads when I tell them their master cylinder is bad. How could that be? I just had a "complete" brake job!



You have a great tool there! Enjoy it!!!!

 

[LightmanE300]

Great info GTobey! I knew it was safe for ABS systems, but had no idea of the dangers of conventional methods.



Jengle - yes it's really that easy. The whole thing took me about a half hour.



I will comment that it's much easier if you choose a brake fluid that comes in two colors. I use ATE Super Blue in my MB. It comes in Blue and Tan. That way you alternate colors, so you can tell quite easily when the old fluid has been bled and the new fluid is coming through.

 

[rbattelle]

Well, that settles it... I'm gettin' me one.



-Ryan

 

[LightmanE300]

Well, that settles it... I'm gettin' me one.



-Ryan

Good call! I also should comment that shipping was very quick from their website - when I recently ordered the universal adapter kit.



BTW that universal bleeder should work easily on any vehicle with a round/capped brake fluid res, which makes it even more valuable as a tool to have around. If you do it once, you've paid for the thing compared to what a dealer charges for brake fluid flush.

 

[STEVEBROOKS]

In the Mopar service manual, it mentions the need for a DRB scan tool to "fully" bleed the brakes on our trucks. For those who have bled their brakes, but didn't use the DRB, did you experience any problems? If getting a DRB is a must, where's the best place to get one (or a suitable substitute)?



Thanks,

Steve

 

[TowPro]

Just a quick tip. Suck the old fluid out of the resevoir first, refill it then flush it. No reason to push that old fluid through the system

 

[nickleinonen]

In the Mopar service manual, it mentions the need for a DRB scan tool to "fully" bleed the brakes on our trucks. For those who have bled their brakes, but didn't use the DRB, did you experience any problems? If getting a DRB is a must, where's the best place to get one (or a suitable substitute)?

there won't be any problems. i'll bet the scan tool is needed to make the abs pump cycle to flush them out too...

 

[RHildreth]

I have to ask the question.



Hydraulic fluid has an awfully long life, why would you need to flush your brake fluid on a vehicle only a few years old?



The only reason I can see to change it is if you somehow got water in it.

 

[gtobey]

TowPro, that's right! I forgot to say that I saved the old ear syringes from my kids for that purpose. Do you remember the old rubber bulbs with the small snout where they put them in the baby's throat and ears and suck out all the bad stuff? I have 3 of those from my kids and they still work good now 27 years later! I have always done that first, and it is a great help...



If you take your vehicle out after flushing it and activate the ABS, what little is left in their system will mix in with the new and you should be OK. I have done that since '94 in my ABS equipped vehicles without a problem or a failure of the ABS system...

 

[RJOL]

I have to ask the question.



Hydraulic fluid has an awfully long life, why would you need to flush your brake fluid on a vehicle only a few years old?



The only reason I can see to change it is if you somehow got water in it.

Some types of hydraulic fluid attract water. Water is the enemy of brake componets.



Here is a site that talks about brake fluids:



http://www.carcarecouncil.org/Brakes/brake_fluid.shtml

 

[RHildreth]

I checked out the site. Sounds like a scam to me. Must be trying to sell some fluid. I guess if you park in water above the calipers and pump your brakes with a cylinder leak, you might possibly suck some minuscule amount of water in, but it would push right back out the next time you hit your brakes. Absorption of humidity at the master cylinder with the cap off for however long it takes to top off can't possibly attract enough moisture to cause a problem. IMHO.

 

[STEVEBROOKS]

I have to ask the question.



Hydraulic fluid has an awfully long life, why would you need to flush your brake fluid on a vehicle only a few years old?



The only reason I can see to change it is if you somehow got water in it.

Brake fluid is the most hygroscopic (the ability to absorb moisture) of the fluids used in vehicles. Depending upon where you live, brake fluid can reach its maximum moisture content in as little as one year's use.

 

[RHildreth]

I guesss I'm just not worried enough about the volume of air in the master cylinder containing enough moisture to contaminate my brake fluid. Especially with the corrosion resistant properties of brake fluid. But then again, just because I'm paranoid, doesn't mean their not out to get me.



Whatever gives you peace of mind. I'll spend my money on air, oil and fuel filters.