2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission I let things go for a couple years and need to do some catching up pronto

[SRath]

Not wanting to be left out, my '96 has decided to join the bandwagon and blow its rusty brake hardlines out. Front and rear. So my plow truck is out of commission during snowplowing season. I've been expecting this and it wasn't catastrophic but I've been too busy (and broke) to do much on the truck for a couple of years.

Which brings me to the laundry list of things I would like to deal with once and for all while I have a couple of weeks to do it. Other things will need to be left on 'hold' for now.

I'm considering simply removing the bed which may make the job(s) easier and provide much better access (I hope).

1> replace all brake hardlines with those pricey Circle Track stainless steel lines. They should outlive me.
a> My '96 has vacuum brakes but I have all the parts (I think) from a '98 to do a hydroboost conversion. Obviously a different kit would need to be ordered. Or at least a couple of the MC lines I think. But I'd hate to get into it and discover I don't have all the hydro parts I need and not have the right lines to even get it back on the road with vacuum booster. I definitely have a heckuva oil leak up around the power steering pump/vacuum pump, and don't I need a different PS pump for hydro anyway? Didn't Larry B's sell something like what I need?
b> I also have almost everything to convert the front axle from knuckles out to Ford live-bearing and lockouts. I need calipers & the associated hardware yet. I've been holding off on this until I could afford the new 1-piece axle shafts. I'll most likely keep that project shelved for now.

2> Fuel guage hasn't worked in years. I hope with the bed off I can avoid the hassles of dropping a 2/3 full tank and easily replace it, too. Or is there a simple but effective fix for the current one?

3> II would be very surprised if my fuel lines are in anay better shape than my brakelines. Now is the time to deal with them, but I'm not sure if the slow but definite decrease I've seen in power over the past couple years might be from sucking air?
a> Is it best to just replace them with SS hairlines or do the whole marine rubber hose thing?
b> I don't know if my fuel heater is a problem or not. Leave it or eliminate it? I do use my truck in extremely cold sub-zero weather.

4> Fuel shutoff solenoid has been held together literally with a couple of zipties for about a year. Still functions but it isn't ideal.

5> I have new rear brake drums already and want to upgrade wheel cylinders to chevy K30 parts if that's still the hot ticket for getting some use out them. and I need to buy brake shoes. Maybe front calipers, rotors , and/or pads. Won't know till I see what's left.

6>Almost forgot: my parking brake cables corroded and fell apart years ago, too, which makes launching and loading the johnboat alone a real challenge. I'm pretty sure I have all the right cables and will be replacing them, too.

Anyway, with all that and more to do, I must separate 'need's and 'wants' and make maximum use of my couple of weeks off right now and my very limited budget. I also don't want to have to repeat my labor later, hence spending premium money for stainless lines. So maximum bang for buck, and time, and efficiency is the name of the game.

Many of you guys have already done most, if not all, of these things. What game plan and methodology would you recommend? Would removing the bed make things easier or does the cab cover too much of what I need to get to.

I appreciate any help in putting together an executable battle plan.

 

[JR]

With what you need to do, pulling the bed sounds like the way to go, especially if your messing with the fuel tank/sending unit. Instead of SS brake lines, I would use Copper Nickel. They are DOT approved and you may be able to find them at a local auto parts store. If not, places like Summit, JEGS, etc carry them by the roll. Much cheaper and easier to work with than SS, yet will last a lifetime like SS. High end European cars have been using it for decades.

The Ford knuckle conversion is something I've always wanted to do but one of those projects I have not found the time for. Free spin axles and dual piston calipers, why didn't Dodge think of that?

 

[fest3er]

You may find the top of the in-tank module rotted out. Replacement is about the only option. But be sure you get the right year. I bought one for a '97 and had to frankenstein the two to get it to work. (But it's been rock stable since.) If you module isn't rotted out on top, you can repair the level sender. If I didn't post here about what I did to adjust mine, I'll find it and send it along. (In a sentence, dismantle the sender, clean it, and put a gentle 'v' in the contact arm to pull the contact to a fresh spot on the resistor plate to sweep. No sharp bends!)

If you're going to do extensive replacements down there, take the bed off and do it all. But you'll probably have to drop the fuel tank anyway to get to the brake/fuel lines on the frame. I found an ATV lift handled the half-full tank well enough; but you should have more support under the tank.

 

[mwilson]

Body off, it is the way to go. Good time to inspect / wash / paint the truck's frame as well. Also inspect the fuel filler neck while body is off, I have had one rust out already.

Also check the rear spring shackles for rust through, super easy to change with the body off.

I have done a pair of '97 trucks using the body off method, wouldn't do it any other way.

Fuel sending unit is available by itself, you don't have to purchase the entire module to get it. I chose to go new rather than attempt the fix as I would never be any closer to it.

I ditched the factory fuel lines, heater and screen. No issues as a result. Class 6 trucks using a 6BT do not have fuel heaters so I figured my truck did not need one either and wound the whole twisted mess into the dumpster. My module fittings were rusted so I went with the Draw Straw.

If that route interests you I can find you the part number for the fuel pump spacer, does not cost very much. I used good quality fuel line and installed a Fleetguard FF5079 inline filter to catch any chunks.

Brake lines...Save your money and use the Copper Nickel Alloy line as JR suggests. Cheaper, bends easy, flares almost by itself. Do it once and done.

Mike.

 

[SheldonBates]

Mike,

I too have a '96. A future project is to delete the fuel heater/pre-filter just as you did. That lift pump spacer part number would be great. Thanks.

 

[mwilson]

Mike,

I too have a '96. A future project is to delete the fuel heater/pre-filter just as you did. That lift pump spacer part number would be great. Thanks.

Here you go Big Fella'........

Ref #2 on the illustration
Part # 3914284

Should be around $14.00 or so.

 

[SheldonBates]

Thank you!

 

[Missouri Mule]

Look at this fuel sending repair.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/Huey_C-sender.htm

 

[SRath]

I really appreciate all the advice on these lines and issues, guys, but could sure use more details.

I'm fortunate to have a good ol' Chevy K20 '81 Silverado that is reliable as can be and has filled my transportation and hauling needs quite well while the Dodge sits awaiting repairs. Unfortunately, the Dodge is my only plow truck and the only one my V-blade goes on, and we're definitely having some snowplow weather with about 8 new inches. I can easily get in and out my very long driveway just fine without plowing it, but what I can't do is make some $$ snowplowing, which would sure be nice while I'm on break to pay for some of these parts.

It appeared the fastest way to put lifetime brakelines on the truck, and fuel lines too, for that matter, was to order the prebent stainless steel ones (brake and fuel) from Circle Track/EGR (which I'm told is one and the same company). I tried to do that last week, but never received a call back from their in-house expert about my questions regarding any differences in lines between my current vacuum boost setup and the hydroboost I'd like to install. When I again called them today, I was told both the brakelines and fuel lines would be at least 3 and probably 4 weeks in "production". Plus the week wasted waiting for a return call that never came. I'm not impressed with them.

So Forget that! Copper-nickel and do-it-myself is my only real option to get the truck back on the road yet this winter at all, much less during my brief holiday time off.

So I then spent over 30 minutes on the phone with the owner of Fedhill, which is the source for the copper-nickel line and fitting of all kinds. Tim (the owner) is an extremely helpful and knowledgeable man, but our Dodges are some of the most notorious vehicles there are for having "mixes" of fittings and flare types, ranking right there among Ford passenger cars for lack of consistency, rhyme, or reason to what the factory used, so there is just no way for him to tell what types and sizes of fittings I would need to order.

Has anyone here actually done the do-it-yourself route for the replacing all the hardlines in the entire brake system and do you know what fittings I should order? I'm pretty sure my (rear-wheel-only-anti-lock) '96 takes 3/16 hardline for the entire brake system, but I'm not positive about that. I have no idea what to order to replace the fuel system hardlines while I'm at it. I'm kind of surprised nobody has documented and/or written up the whole process here already.

Is it better to just forget replacing the fuel hardlines and use marine-grade fuel hose? Or can I? I can just see one more "bandaid" fix coming just to get the dodge out plowing for awhile, and sooner or later another brakeline blowout, and that isn't what I want, but I also really don't want this Dodge becoming a cobweb-covered "project" taking up my shop space for weeks or even months.

 

[mwilson]

Scott,

Home doing battle with a nasty case of the flu so if I ramble a dite more than usual please forgive me.
The brake line is available at any chain, such as Carquest, NAPA, etc.

3/16" is the size.

Many of your current fittings can be used over, those that are not fit to use can be obtained at a chain store as well. I did buy a bubble flare tool a while back, can't remember if the '97 had some bubble flare or it was one of the vans.

I will be a little more coherent tomorrow, think I am through the worst. I will look through my spare fittings and get some descriptions.

As far as fuel line I used good quality blue push-loc and fittings. I think there are pictures on one of my computers. See what I can find.

 

[Wayne M.]

Hi Mike, sorry to hear you are down. Scott, Wifeys '98 Durango has bubble flares, so I'd gamble that the '97 does too. Invest in the right tool.

 

[HomerDog]

Scott,
I have a '96 as well and just went through some of your issues so thought I might offer my 2 cents. My brake lines were badly rusted but not leaking, I went with SS pre-bent lines from EGR/Circle Track. Yes they are expensive but it was a time vs. money thing for me. I was told 3 weeks to make them up but I believe they arrived in about 2 weeks. If you call Glen at EGR he will know what you need for your truck, all of mine had the correct fittings and fairly close bends. If you plan of going another route and reusing fittings be aware mine were really rusted and probably couldn't be reused. I soaked the heck out of mine beforehand and basically destroyed some of them getting them off. Brakes are great now.

My fuel line were leaking all over, mostly on the return side and the fuel gage didn't work. I purchased a draw straw and fuel level float to rebuild mine but ended up just buying a new fuel module. I used trident diesel hose from tank to pump and a quick connect from overflow valve back to the tank. I just left the old lines in place and followed them with new lines and protective covering. Not dodge approved but certainly works and a lot of people have done this.

I used a cherry picker to raise the drivers side of the bed, much easier than removing the entire bed. However, if I had people to help and the room to store the bed I would remove it as well.

I have my old fuel module that I removed, a new float, and a draw straw configured with barb fitting to accept the rubber hose. Send me a PM if you are interested in any of the parts and I will make you a great deal. Good Luck,

Dave

 

[JR]

All brake lines are standard bubble flared 3/16 line with standard fittings. The exception that I have encountered on my 98 is at the abs module under the hood, and those are metric 12 x 1.25 threads. Be very careful threading/unthreading the lines coming out of the module, steel fittings going into an aluminum housing is a recipe for disastor. I accidentaly cross threaded a line one time, but i got lucky and was able to tap the threads with a bottom tap. Those can be reused as well as any others that arent too rusty. I usually take apart a brake line from fitting to fitting, lay it out on the floor, and duplicate it with the new brake line. Using small zip ties to fasten the 2 together helps as your making bends to keep a nice tight pattern. The beautiful thing about the copper/nickel line is you can easily form it by hand, no tubing benders needed to make a nice clean bend.
As for the fuel line I would skip the stainless again and go with 3/8 or 1/2" rubber. IMO the OEM lines are too restrictive and it makes the pumps work harder than they need to. If your having a hard time sourcing the line locally Check out Vulcan performance online. They also carry various fittings to tie into the sending unit and the OEM fuel filter. If you have any questions they are very knowledgeable folks to talk to.

 

[JMcCoy]

Welcome back Scott! I'm sure I'm not the only one who missed seeing that red semi in the lower left corner LOL. Since you may need new calipers, pads and rotors anyways, spend the money on the ford parts. An inexpensive set of loaded calipers really made it easy for me. You can always go back and do axles when you service the bearings. I am still running the cad with the Posi-loc, but your vacuum actuator "should" keep you going until you get your solid axle. The Ford brakes will change your truck. Once completed, you will want to punch yourself in the face for not doing it sooner. I know I did. The Chevy wheel cylinders also made a huge difference. Since you are having rust issues, take a good look at your rear U-bolts. Mine were almost rusted through at that stupid lower salt/sand bucket at the bottom of the axle. I live in Florida and rust is not usually a problem. I installed custom upper brackets and had "real" 5/8 U shaped U-bolts made for pretty cheap (original was 9/16 if I remember correctly). I should never have this problem again. I did not know about the copper-nickel brake lines. Something else for the list. Keep us posted on your progress. Good luck.