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I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

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RAM 2015 problems

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I would suggest using the Fleetguard, Donaldson filters

Oil is a choice personally use Amsoil in all our equipment never had an engine failure in over 4000000 miles combined mileage due to oil failure

We also do not allow our equipment tucks to excessively idle but that’s a choice as well

Also believe your selling dealer offers a credit for first oil change of $50 or so something to consider
 
That’s not something I’ve seen on a CTD yet. The EB will shutoff when ECT reaches a certain temp, even if it’s selected in.

180°F is where it shutoff on my 5.9, and I haven’t messed with the 6.7 enough but I know it won’t be engaged at 190°F.

John and Ozzy,

The way that I know that the EB stays engaged is when you idle and it is manually set is that I am deleted. The exhaust will have a (lack of a better definition) high pitch whistle similar to a jet engine when brake is engaged. There is no sound difference if the exhaust system if the brake is not engaged between driving and idling. When I set the high idle feature to 1,000RPM's or higher, this will remain engaged until I shut it off either by tapping the brake pedal or turning it manual off. Whenever the brake is engaged with the engine on and the truck is stop or idling for what every reason the exhaust tone switches to the high pitch whistle.

I know what is causing this jet like sound, it is the restriction of the sliding vane on the exhaust side of the turbo, which is reducing the air flow from the turbo for braking purposes.

My younger son's 2013.5 does the same thing as my truck and has a similar tone, but just a little deeper. He has also enable that the brake will come on immediately upon start up. He did this with the EFILive program on his truck.
 
Stuart no you do not need the EB on for long periods of engine idling. The reason my brake is on is usually to warm up the truck in the winter. Or I have been on the highway and the truck needs fuel. The EB is on from being used on the highway (my EB is on 99% of the time) and I am letting it idle as I fill-up the truck.

Stuart I should have stated for summer time use you do not need to use the EB when Idling for long periods. I was think this when I wrote the first sentence, but I did not include that statement in my response.

At truck stops if my wife stays in the cab on either a hot or cold day, I will pull forward after filling up leaving the truck idle with the brake on. I will set the high Idle feature and go in to pay with the A/C or heat on and the EB is set.
 
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"Stuart no you do not need the EB on for long periods of engine idling." Could you please explain this?

I leave mine on all the time. When I was in cold weather taking a couple hour nap the truck would idle up as needed.

I thought the idea was to keep a load on the engine for extended idle times.
 
You want it on for extended idle. It will load the motor which keeps it warm and reduces wet stacking.

Even on a 2010 I drove for a bit a few winters ago the EB would open up when the ECT got up. It was not stock.

Stock or not I don’t see any tables for keeping it on above a certain ECT.

EDIT:

This is the owners manual excerpt.

The exhaust brake feature can also be used to reduce the engine warm up time. To use the exhaust brake as a warm-up device, the vehicle must be stopped or moving less than 5 mph (8 km/h), the Exhaust Brake Indicator must be on, and the coolant temperature must be below 180°F(82°C)andambienttemperaturebelow60°F(16°C).
 
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I put the transmission flow thru on . towing a 14000 lb 5th wheel thru 4 hrs of LA stop and go traffic in 90 to100 plus proved to me that not having the thermostat control and smaller orifice did make a real life difference to the tune of keeping the temp below 210 instead of 225 or higher in stop and go conditions .I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND IT FOR COLD CLIMATES . its a hundred bucks and worth it in my opinion
 
Hey guys I just had a question have we ever figure it out yet if alternative ride height on the 19th is riding better or worse I've got to go back up to shipshewana Indiana and pick up another unit to take to a RV dealer so I was just curious I'd like to try the alternative ride height with a travel trailer and as I said a few days ago I did put 720 lb worth of blocks in the back of the truck to make it ride better but it still won't go down to alternative ride height I guess after I put the travel trailer on it will no problem get into that position of alternative ride height.
 
Around eight mpg and 17 empty.

it actually gets worse fuel mileage than with the jayco North point which weighs 17000 ready to go so a travel trailer actually makes me burn more fuel go figure.
 
FINALLY got to POP the B&W Cherry today.....with this Solitude Grand Design.
A20AFD4B-AD07-4D91-A809-BCC13D389C7E.jpeg
 
That Solitude looks heavy, :cool: so what is your opinion of the B&W 5ver hitch? As you know I own the same flatbed base, and I was impressed with the way it seemed solidly atttached to the bed. But the B&W puck system base I now have with my 2019 3500, is even better. BTW, nice truck gsbrockman.
 
@RVTRKN
It pulls great....It has a Lippert air ride hitch on it.

Trailer does not seem too heavy. Keep in mind I picked this RV up at an IAAI auction; it was sold as having undercarriage damage. The plastic “belly pan” on the RV is sagging some towards the front, giving it the impression that it is nose heavy. I later utilized a ratchet strap across the bottom of the frame to support it some, AFTER the picture was taken.

Hitching and connecting the B&W appears to me........99.999% eeeeeeeediot proof. On a flatbed application, a quick, easy peek at the jaws let’s one know that it is hitched.....period.

I like it really well.

One can enlarge the picture and see the 4500 has minimal squat.
 
I know it would not be worth doing any adjustments but it's amazing how many people would hook and go and not think there is anything wrong with the setup! I am betting front axle is 1,000# heavier than the rear.

YES the B&W is damn near idiot proof! One thing that leads to dropping a B&W is pinning the handle open, NEVER and I mean NEVER do that!

I NEVER do a pull test as all that is needed is to do a VISUAL test. Kingpin and hitch plates touching Check, handle closed pinned and locked check, 1" thick jaws are closed around king pin check, now get in and drive away.
 
YES the B&W is damn near idiot proof! One thing that leads to dropping a B&W is pinning the handle open, NEVER and I mean NEVER do that!

I pin it open every time. If I can’t remember to close my hitch, and check it, before leaving I probably shouldn’t be towing on the road anymore. Just sayin...
 
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