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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) I Need Fuel Filter Replacement Advice

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Im wanting to change the fuel filter on my recently aquired 97 12 valve but I would like some tips on doing this without getting fuel all over the place (starter included) and getting the truck fired back up without toasting my batteries and stater. Should I also go with a fleetgaurd or Mopar filter here also? I used a Mopar oil filter when I changed the oil right after I got it. Any help is much appreciated.
 
I changed mine once and then bought the primeloc fuel filter relocator. There are cheaper relocators out there too, Genos offer two versions. So, my 2 cents is get the sucker relocated to a better location so your future fuel filter changes will be painless. :)
 
If you use the drain you shouldnt get fuel all over.

Open the bleed screw on the top of the banjo fittings and prime a LOT when you got it all buttoned up. When the fuel comes out w/o air bubbles you can stop.

It wont require much more than 5 seconds of cranking if you did it right.

If you have 4 wh ABS it will be tight, but not a big problem.
 
I changed mine once and then bought the primeloc fuel filter relocator.



I purchased the Prime-Loc for my 98 from Geno's a couple of years ago. It was listed as suitable. When I installed it I found it fouled some steel brake lines. I reported this to Geno's, including a photograph. I managed the install by moving the lines as much as posible, but one still touches the filter. I now see that in the current Geno's catalogue the Prime-Loc is only recommended for 94 to 96 12 valves. The original poster has a 97.

Nick.
 
Drain the filter as suggested. Unplug the WIF wires. The retaining nut is a 9/16, not metric. I use a universal and a couple of extensions snaked through the wire bundles. I drop it down, rest it on the frame, then remove it from the bottom. Once you have it on the bench I suggest you unscrew the brass nut that holds the bolt in, then go to your local Ace hardware and get a #8 grade bolt to replace it. My stock bolt broke on a hot saturday afternoon in rural Alabama. Lube the rubber rings with a little petroleum jelly prior to reassembly.
 
Oh I forgot.
There's a tab in the housing. Be sure you have this lined up correctly or bad times will result.
You can install it hand tight, then wiggle it to assure youre within the slot.
If you wiggle it after loosening it up before removing it you'll see what I mean.
I put a little neverseize on my threads to help it be easy to hand thread on.
The nut on the housing is in a biotch of a spot.
 
I second the Prime-loc. After the first filter change I said theres got to be a better way. Went to a TDR rally and came home with the prime-loc. Modified the cover so it does not cover any thing up on the engine. See my Old readers rigs gallery for photos. And it is now painless to change.
 
I second the Prime-loc. See my Old readers rigs gallery for photos.



I would be interested to see this plate modification. I went to page 84 and others on the Readers' Rig section, but could find no entry under your user name. Do you have a link? Many thanks.

Nick.
 
I would be interested to see this plate modification. I went to page 84 and others on the Readers' Rig section, but could find no entry under your user name. Do you have a link? Many thanks.

Nick.



I would like to see this also since as Crowhurst stated the kit sold at Genos isn't really meant for my 97
 
Your not going to see it on page 84.

Look at my name above, and to the left/bottom you see - ----"OLD READERS RIGS GALLERY"----

Click here and it will take you to my stuff that I have done to my truck.

I cut the top part smaller and tucked it back into the corner by the firewall and hood bracket. If you have the hydro brake system and the four wheel anti lock this might present a problem for your later models. But it worked for me.
 
Lets see if this will work

This is not a very good picture but you might get the drift.















<-------- Just click over here
 
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