2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission I need new brakes on my 2001 2500 4x4

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Is this hard to do? Service manual really talks about a 2wd and no pics of a 4x4. If i need the rotors machined or replaced can i pop them off the hubs on the truck or do i have to take the axle apart? I've read various topics on this but can't find a real answer.



Gary
 
For the 1998. 5 (mine) the manual shows the best way is grinding while on the truck. Really can not be perfectly mounted without runout otherwise. If you can check for runout and smothness just do a pad swap. The only difference is the pads take longer to "bed" to the slightly worn rotors. Brake shops turn them all the time - it is best for the customers brake performance for the pads to "bed" to the rotors on the first brake application. If you are willing to put up with a possible pull for the first six or so hard stops- save the expensive rotor metal until you have runout or warpageor have gone metal to metal. Just my opinion- Pro mechanics feel free to shoot this down if wrong.
 
Gary,

If your rig is a 2001. 5 take a look at the "glide-pins" that must be removed to access the pads. I and many other 01. 5 owners have found that the "pins" are Torx heads and it's not Torx 45 as it's too small and Torx 47 is too big. We have all called our local dealers and no one knows! I called Glenn at EGR last week and he is not aware of this problem. Sorry to pass this along to you but, I've been waiting for an answer to this for 3 months. I just want to change out the pads for less dusting issues.

If you tackle this and find an answer please let us know:(



William
 
I used a Lsyle t47 size. It worked perferectly, just spray the bolts with PB Blaster if you are worried. Be careful though, OTC has released a different style torx driver. It is fatter and rounder, and costs much much much more :mad: You will have to remove the guide pins and remove the caliper. Clamp back the puck to keep it from over-expaning and hang it out of the way. Remove the big metal bracket that the caliper sits in, you will need a 15mm? 12pt. socket to remove them. The rotor is bolted in, there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold it onto the hub. Do not remove the caliper unless you plan on replacing it. Most machine shops do not have lathes big enough to cut them.
 
just did the front brakes on my 2000 4*4. I was able to use the 45t torx. It was a loose fir but the bolts were not that tight and were able to loosen them right up. Then i took the caliper adapter off. after this the rotor just slid off. had to fight one since it was rusted on the hub. I turned the rotors because mine were pretty warped already and figured what do i have to lose adn plus did not have cash to but new rotors. they came out gorgeaus but at next brake job i will need rotors because they are almost at minimum. to prevent warpage, you need proper break in period, take it easy on the brakes after a brake job, don't romp on them because this causes warpage. EAse them into the punishment of b4eing on a dodge. ITs been a month since i have done them, 5,000 miles, and no problems. My squeak has not come back adn no pulsation yet. Hope my problems are solve . if you still have question let me know. :cool:
 
I replaced the brakes on my Y2K a while back and someone said a 12pt socket was what I needed. I have both 12 and 6Pt and one of the 12pt sockets ( I do not remember which size) fit fine.
 
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