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I solved the slow fillup problem on my '03

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305 or 315 tires

Fuel Filter Drain Line

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They are check valves to permit fuel vapors into the charcoal canister and not raw fuel. The gas trucks require a closed system so those barbed ends have a hose attached and then go to the canister.



That would explain why it takes so long to fill that air space in the rear of the tank. There are no bubbles coming out of the vent as the last 3-5 gallons are put into the tank. That air must be slowly escaping out the check valves.
 
Steven,



I plan on keeping them available as long as I can. If there is demand, there will be product. I've got 10 kits built except for 2 parts that should be here on friday and they're all accounted for. I'm putting together more right now. Check the classifieds when you're ready.



BTW, I wrote up some detailed instructions for the kit that should make installation easier.
 
I plan on ordering an '05 and would be in the market then also.

Any chance you could post a set of those detailed instructions? I'm one of those "want to know early" kind of guys.

Thanks,

Tim
 
As my truck is a short bed, I assume the air space at the rear is likely smaller than on the larger long bed tanks. Anyone done this on a short bed?



Also, has anyone used this really neat kit with a transfer flow type auxiliary fuel tank? These type tanks also "T" into the vent line.



A combo of being able to use the full 34 gallon capacity of my tank along with a 30 to 40 gallon in bed aux tank would probably satisfy my capacity needs (really WANTS! LOL!).
 
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installed spooled up kit this morning. works like a charm, went to the filling station and after the nozzle clicked off it only took about 10 seconds to fill completely to the top. :D :) :D



gary
 
I plan on getting this kit after I get back from vacation. How hard is it to get the tank out? I am pretty mechanical so what is an estimated time to install/modify? Like I said, I am gonna do this but just trying to get some info before tearing into the project.
 
smithinc told me it took him about 2 hours to do the entire job. Not sure what tools he had i. e. jacks etc. I just used 4x4 blocks and a 5 gal bucket on each end to lower the tank. I kept pulling one out at a time at each end lowered the tank 4" at a time. When the tank is on the buckets, it's manageable by one person if it's empty enough.
 
Spooled-up, I got the kit the other day, The question I have is what size and what kind of hose are you using to piece the brass T to the main vent.



Jeff
 
Originally posted by rfoust

I plan on getting this kit after I get back from vacation. How hard is it to get the tank out? I am pretty mechanical so what is an estimated time to install/modify? Like I said, I am gonna do this but just trying to get some info before tearing into the project.



it did take me about 2 hours but i spent about 45 minutes trying to get one of the fuel clips undone on the top of the tank. I have air tools and I did it myself with over 1/4 tank of fuel. I jacked up the rear of the truck and loosened the two nuts holding the tank straps ( I was able to get a deep socket on both nuts and loosen them the whole way with the air ratchet) I put a jack stand under the front end and removed the rear strap and let the tank go to the driveway. since all the fuel was at the low end i was able to them remove the jack stand from the front and lower the entire tank to the ground.



to reinstall the tank i put a jack stand under the front again and lifted the rear with a floor jack them reinstalled the rear strap them jacked up the front and installed the front strap.



gary
 
Originally posted by Spooled-up

Steven,



I plan on keeping them available as long as I can. If there is demand, there will be product. I've got 10 kits built except for 2 parts that should be here on friday and they're all accounted for. I'm putting together more right now. Check the classifieds when you're ready.



BTW, I wrote up some detailed instructions for the kit that should make installation easier.



I know I'm a little late here, but living in the middle of sprint country, wouldn't a speed shop have fittings and stuff that are much easier to work with?



I know on my sprinter, all fittings were push on with no clamps. And bulhheads could be bought with a washer/o-ring combo. It's all -AN stuff, so it might be a little more expensive, but it's quick, easy and liiiigghht, LOL.



Just a thought.
 
Originally posted by JVolkmann

Spooled-up, I got the kit the other day, The question I have is what size and what kind of hose are you using to piece the brass T to the main vent.



Jeff



Jeff,



The "T" fitting included in the kit goes in the stock rubber 3/4" vent hose. After you remove the tank, cut a section out of the hose that will allow the "T" fitting to fit and will also make the hose the same length as the stock hose. There are no other parts required other than some teflon tape.
 
Did The Same As Spooled-up But Went To Ace Hardware And Bought



1Ea. Grey 90 Degree 3/4 Inch Hose Barb With 3/4 Inch Female Thread.

1Ea. 3/4 Inch Grey All/Thread Nipple.

1Ea. 3/4 Inch Conduit Nut.

1Ea. Washer Made Out Of Aluminum - Made Myself

3Ft. 3/4 Inch Fuel Hose @ Auto Parts

Drilled 7/8 Inch Hole In Tank With Blade Bit At Highest Point And Tapped With 3/4 Inch Pipe Tap. Tank Is Thick Enough To Thread.

Screwed Nipple Into Hose Barb Tight And Then Into Tank.

Reached Through Manhole In Tank And Installed Washer And Conduit Nut. Angled Hose Barb Slightly Toward Fender Well And Toward Vent On Filler Neck. This Needs To Be Done On Last Turn Since Hose Barb Bottoms Out And Seals On Top Of Tank. Used ABS Pipe Glue On Top Of Tank To Help Seal. Hooked Hose Onto Vent Tube And Capped Original Vent At Tank.

Cost About $6. 00

Tank Will Hold 30 Gallons When Hits Empty. Will Hold 42 Gallons If Dry. 12 Gallon Reserve. Same Results As Spooled-Up On Fill Time.
 
Spooled-up, I was checking out your pic's and now have a question. Is it possible to just cap the stock vent fitting and replace it with the new vent fitting? With only the one vent line it might slow done the filling a bit but would make the install easier and cheaper.
 
phloop,

I have asked around about the bulkhead fitting that would be required for this. I wouldn't want to use anything that would be smaller than the stock vent. That means using a 3/4" inside diameter fitting that connected to 3/4" i. d. hose. I haven't been able to find anything that large that has a rubber gasket or o-ring, is made of brass, or is made of fuel approved plastic.



I wouldn't want to go any smaller than 3/4" because some of the big truck pumps put out a whole lot of fuel and a large vent is required to evacuate all of the air that the fuel displaces. With my kit, we're only venting a small part of the tank at the end of the fillup.



I'm willing to explore any options that anyone can come up with though.



-Dave
 
i have all the parts i would need to do this mod floating around home [i was planning to do this before spooled up made up his kit] the only thing i don't have is the bulkhead fitting. if i could get some lathe time, i could turn myself a 7/8" NF bolt into a -10 [5/8" jic] fitting to bolt down to the tank... i don't work down in maintenence at work anymore and that's where the lathe is :(:(:( and i don't want to buy a -10 fuel cell bulkhead fitting [costs more and has a lock nut that goes into tank, mine would have no lock nuts in tank]
 
Yesterday I installed David's kit. A few observations: I had a hard time getting the electrical connector off. Found the orange slide thing, but couldn't figure out how to get the actual connector out. Or, for that matter, how much actually came out (just the black or the gray). Finally got that off. The install of the kit parts into the tank went OK until I tried putting the large white ring back on. That was tough. Took a good 10 or 15 minutes to get it. Got the tank back up & in the straps. Had a hard time getting the fuel line fittings reconnected. After fighting, gnashing teeth, etc, I finally figured out that the two prong connectors have flats on them. The female line ends have corresponding internal flats. Naturally these must line up for them to snap together. There are corresponding external flats on the female ends so you can tell when you have 'em lined up. After I figured that out, they snapped together just fine. The two prong part can rotate on the tank connector so they can get out of alingnment. I cut about 5" off the end of the 3/4" OEM vent hose to make room for the "T". Cut a 2" piece off that to use to bridge between the "T" and the OEM steel vent line. In his instructions David talks about poor accessibiltiy to the front bolt. That must be unique to long bed trucks. Mine is a short bed & I had no problem at all. A 1/2" drive deep well 5/8" socket took 'em all the way off. 1/2" drive is deeper than 3/8 " drive. I used a motorcycle lift to lower and raise the tank. Worked fine.



I must be a real duffer compared to some of you other guys who have done this install. I see reports of 2 hours. I took 4. Wasted at least 1 fooling with fuel line fittings.



Just got back from filling the truck. WONDERFUL!!! After click off, I was able to squeeze in only another 1/2 gallon. Had fuel standing in the neck. I've never seen that before!



David, great job on the kit.
 
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Re: phloop,

Originally posted by Spooled-up

I have asked around about the bulkhead fitting that would be required for this. I wouldn't want to use anything that would be smaller than the stock vent. That means using a 3/4" inside diameter fitting that connected to 3/4" i. d. hose. I haven't been able to find anything that large that has a rubber gasket or o-ring, is made of brass, or is made of fuel approved plastic.



I wouldn't want to go any smaller than 3/4" because some of the big truck pumps put out a whole lot of fuel and a large vent is required to evacuate all of the air that the fuel displaces. With my kit, we're only venting a small part of the tank at the end of the fillup.



I'm willing to explore any options that anyone can come up with though.



-Dave



try here
 
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