I would like a second opinion

[1stgen4evr]

1989 D250. 165k miles. Cranks instantly. Constant blowby with noticable palpatation in the blowby stream. Significant rattle that goes away with the number six line cracked.



I figure a burned piston, hopefully no cylinder wall damage.



Will the oil pan come off in frame on the twd model without some trick I don't know? I have seen posts about swaping ends on the oil pan in the fwd models so there must be more clearance on those than I have.



I have a significant leak at the rear of the engine (motor oil). I am trying to make up my mind as to pulling the engine.



Any thoughts/comments appreciated.



James

 

[tugboatphil]

James,



I've had 2 rear seals replaced on my trucks (one for each). Just judging by the labor charge, I would guess that they did it in frame. Never did see it, but it wasn't an unreasonable charge in both cases.

 

[dpuckett]

I think you have to lift up the engine to clear the pan by the oil pump pickup tube; I could be mistaken. This is not personal experience; just from my limited reading on the Cummins B Series.



Hey, if you have a burned piston, now is a good time for marine pistons (drops you to around 16:1 if I recall, from our 17 or 17. 5 to 1). If it goes away with cracking the #6 injector line, I'd suspect an injector before a piston or anything else. Blowby could be a few things- I've had some that had quite a bit of idle blowby not burn more than a quart every 5K mi.



Rear main seal is a cinch- drop the transmission, and there you be. I'd also recommend replacing the cam plug while you have it apart. Gotta take off 6 or 8 bolts and remove the bell housing adaptor. Murphy's Law states that the cam plug, no matter how dry it was before, will start to leak like a seive the minute you replace the rear main seal and get it all back together Fortunately, the rear main and cam plug can be replaced independently of one another.



Good luck



Daniel

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

If a piece of paper held against the tailpipe outlet gets sucked back (palpitations????) that suggests a bad/burned/bent exhaust valve. Barking at the air box suggests bad intake valve.

 

[MMiller]

I too would like to know if the oil pan will come off with engine in chassis. The cross member below the engine looks very tight+ the bell housing would not allow the pan to go rear ward.



Pull #6 valve cover and see if the valves are still moving ok. Thats easy to do.



Michael

 

[Grey Wolf]

I've had the pan off on my (4X4) truck, it's not a fun job but it can be done. My sons 2wd would mean the engine would come out, not much room there

 

[1stgen4evr]

Thanks guys. I will do a follow up soon as I get it out.



James

 

[1stgen4evr]

And the answer is; severly burned piston on number six. I am changing the engine and will decide later just how to best repair the take out. Five perfectly good cylinders and one that will certainly have to be bored and sleeved if it is to be used as standard. Probably I will bore all the cylinders and do a complete overhaul.



James