Here I am

I'm done...

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Engine Codes/ Rough High Idle

03 trans ????

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I'm figuring this will take at least three cold days to try since the grid heaters cycling and truck being cold soaked only lasts so long. Probably try it tonight, see what happens.



I'm almost hoping I can simply have the wife start the truck and hear the culprit tapping...



I can get a set of injectors, minus the tips, for $2k... not sure if that's good/bad/indifferent. I can order advertised-as-new Bosch injectors online for as low as $333/each plus the core charge.
 
OK, I got a technical question... since this is nothing more than a solenoid, can it be tested by the home mechanic?



I have access to the terminals on the head (and even if I need to pull the valve cover to get better access)... if I read ohms across the terminals, would I see any difference between one that is weak and one that is good??? Would it be worth looking at?
 
OK, I got a technical question... since this is nothing more than a solenoid, can it be tested by the home mechanic?



I have access to the terminals on the head (and even if I need to pull the valve cover to get better access)... if I read ohms across the terminals, would I see any difference between one that is weak and one that is good??? Would it be worth looking at?

Steve,

I beleive the only thing that you will be able to do with an Ohm meter, is to see if the Solenoid is open or shorted. It will not tell you if the injector itself is bad. With the wires off the solenoid, the resistance should be less than 100 Ohms. If resistance is higher, then the solenoid is bad, which could cause the injector to not function properly.

If you do this, make shure you remove the wires before testing.
 
Steve,

I beleive the only thing that you will be able to do with an Ohm meter, is to see if the Solenoid is open or shorted. It will not tell you if the injector itself is bad. With the wires off the solenoid, the resistance should be less than 100 Ohms. If resistance is higher, then the solenoid is bad, which could cause the injector to not function properly.

If you do this, make shure you remove the wires before testing.





I'm chasing what I feel is a solenoid failing... which should be able to be tested, somehow.



Thanks for that insight... at least I have a starting/reference point...
 
I just spoke with a CTD tech at the local garage... I explained the issue, the mods to the truck, and what I had done already. These are his thoughts:

1) DC can do a balance test, where they turn individual injectors off, but he was not aware of an efficiency test.

2) Test the resistance of each solenoid, see if one is low/high when compared to the others...

3) Pay particular attention to the under-valve cover wiring and connectors to see if one is cracked/stripped.

So I now have a starting point. I can at least start to methodically narrow the issue down with some sort of testing that will provide actual numbers. I fully plan to pull the valve cover off sometime this weekend, but I need to install a radiator in my DD first.
 
Steve,
If you need to test things with the grid heaters on, you may be able to add a switch to manually turn on the relay instaed of waiting for cold mornings. Just a thought.


I'm figuring this will take at least three cold days to try since the grid heaters cycling and truck being cold soaked only lasts so long. Probably try it tonight, see what happens.

I'm almost hoping I can simply have the wife start the truck and hear the culprit tapping...

I can get a set of injectors, minus the tips, for $2k... not sure if that's good/bad/indifferent. I can order advertised-as-new Bosch injectors online for as low as $333/each plus the core charge.
 
First, I want to apologize for having stuff strewn throughout three threads, I'm going to continue here solely, to limit confusion. I also have been responding with a blackberry, which does not allow me to quote responses and that makes me appear all over the place as well...

moonranch: I will try to isolate the circuit... should be easy enough to apply power to the relay. That would at least make the quirk last longer...

I started it last night, albeit it was 30*F at the time; the truck had sat all day and the temps had been near 45*F. It did idle rough, and you could plainly hear a miss in the exhaust. I took a short video of it (with sound), but the echo from the building makes it hard to hear the miss (although you can still hear it). I was all excited to go out this AM and try again, only to have the temps around 40*F this AM... so I decided to not bother since it needs to be cold. I will try again this weekend since it is supposedly going to be in the 20s. Keep in mind, this video is showing the very mild version of what happens... when it does it bad, you can not only hear it miss badly, but it smokes bad, and you can hear what sounds like an injector snapping (like when they fail). It starts out fine, but if you listen to it around the 40 second mark you can hear it missing slightly... it does it a lot worse at times. See if I can make this link work...

#ad


Let me know what you think about this video, and if it sounds normal to you... or if you pick out any other noises that might be an indicator (ones that may have became "normal" to me).

I pulled the valve cover last night... disconnected the leads to the injectors at the valve box (not from the injectors themselves) and checked the resistance of the solenoids. I "zero'd" the meter the best I could, it stabilized between 0. 2 and 0. 3 ohms... unfortunately, my digital meter only has resolution to the nearest 0. 1 ohm. I then tested each solenoid, again disconnected at the valve box, to find all were reading 0. 4 ohms after the reading stabilized... no single injector read odd compared to the others.

I also inspected the injector connections, and found they were fine... really didn't figure there would be an issue since Lloyd knows what he's doing, but I was in there anyway...

So now, I got to find a meter to check the solenoid passively... I have a call into my father at the moment.

I was also looking at the harness from the valve box to the injectors... and I may look at that deeper because some of the wires were touching the head, and were not protected with a loom from abrasion... not sure if this is ever a problem (rub through), but it doesn't hurt to check... although I would expect it to happen all the time then, not just when cold.

I was going to read resistance back through the injector harness, to see if there was any odd reading there... but decided against it since I do not know what shorting those leads out (even with the ignition off) might do...

At this point, I'm torn. Do I take it back to Lloyd yet again (bad time of year since this is our second 4wd we rely on) and let him try to figure it out (and possibly come to the same frustration level I currently have)? Do I take it to the dodge dealer and let them diagnose it?? Do I just buy a new set of injectors and continue to throw parts at it??

All this and there has not been a single code set (that a normal DIY code reader will see, I have an Actron)... if this was an injector circuit issue (not the injector itself), would it throw a code?
 
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Well, after some thought about the next step... I decided to let the Lloyd have it again. I'll be taking the truck to Lloyd tomorrow and leaving it with him for a few days, or weeks... whatever it takes. Hopefully he determine's the root cause and can determine the fix.



I decided that there was nothing further I could do myself.
 
If I wouldn't take a long deep bath on my 3rd gen I'd be looking for another 12valve. I like my 97 much more than my 04. 5. I'll take the trade offs.
 
I've always said, the 03 and 04 are the ones to own. I certainly would not let one persons issues influence my decision. It would have to be a debacle like the sick point OHHHHH for me to think serious about going to a much older truck.

I think the 03-04 years are the simplest and most trouble free of any of the new common rail designs.
 
I've always said, the 03 and 04 are the ones to own. I certainly would not let one persons issues influence my decision. It would have to be a debacle like the sick point OHHHHH for me to think serious about going to a much older truck.



I think the 03-04 years are the simplest and most trouble free of any of the new common rail designs.
83,000 miles and the only problem was lift pump at around 50,000 and steering box with heavy abuse offroading.



Jake
 
Ohhhhhhhhhh, if I didn't have bad luck I would have no luck...

Seems FedEx may have lost my injectors!!!! They have not made it to F1... and Lloyd says he can't even track them now...

I swear this truck is cursed...
 
To me its NOT good news, being I wanted to know what was causing the issue. All this may lead to is throwing parts at it.
 
Whoooo-hooo!! The lost are found!

If they were sent out like Lloyd typically does, they arrive nearly 5 days after they were supposed to... but at least they made it!
 
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