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Today after work I got the new Valair "Quiet" Organic Dual Disk flywheel, clutch disks and pressure plate properly placed and torqued onto the back of the Cummins and the new throw out bearing and fork in the front of the transmission.
All looking good and waiting for me to stab it together on Sunday when I have some help coming over.
In the first picture, be sure to notice the short black straps that keep the center "floater" plate from rattling against the flywheel when the clutch is depressed, which is a hallmark of dual disc clutch packs.
These straps are why they call it the "quiet" version of the DD clutch. IMO, it is a MUCH better and more stable design then the Southbend dual disc clutch which uses rubber tabs fitted into pockets between the center plate and flywheel.
Prepped for tomorrow by making the gasket that goes between the shift tower and the transmission which is not available anymore. Most people use RTV, but I made a cardboard test template and then copied the template on to some cork/rubber. Im also gonna make one out of a thinner fiber gasket material, round the inside corners on it a little better, then decide which one to use tomorrow, Opinions welcome…
Ya me too….certainly DON'T want it loosening up on me while Im driving down the road.
I will also make one out of the thinner fibre gasket stock that I have and probably used that one.
True story…Years ago, I was passing through a small town with a large hardware store that in its heyday was used to service the Redwood lumber industry.
Walking through the store, smiling with my mouth agape, I saw that they had a couple aisles of those old steel cabinets with steel drawers… NO cardboard boxes here. Even though they were 1/100th the size, their stocked hardware items put Tractor Supply and Home Depot to shame.
I went a little crazy when i saw their "gasket" drawers and bought a couple sheets of each kind and thickness material and IIRC still didnt spend more then $20 total.
I bought a Ford 3000 tractor that had a problem with the shifter jumping out of the fork rails. The PO had even put a new shifter on it. I finally figured out that the thick rubber gasket he’d put under it wouldn’t let the shifter ball go all the way into the rails like it should. I removed it and put a bead of Ultra Gray on it and never had another problem with it.
Good work on that old Ford… the cork looks thicker in the picture then it actually is … 3/32".
The fiber gasket is only 3/64"…the G56 ball detent on the tower has rock solid enagagement but Ill be sure to double check that the gasket is not gonna interfere with it.
Got the G56 stabbed back onto the Cummins today …working by myself, it took longer then I expected and I am tired.
Next time (actually given the quality and holding power of the Valair dual disk clutch, I am hoping that there wont ever need to be a next time!!!) but if there is, I will definitely buy, rent or make a transmission/scissor lift for easier alignment and rolling into place.
That said, I was still able to keep the longer guide bolts that I ran through the g56 bell housing and into the machined adapter plate finger loose (in other words in perfect alignment) while I used a ratchet strap hooked to the front of the jack and a bolted down work bench to slowly pull the transmission forward while I adjusted the angle of the dangle with a stubby bottle jack placed piggyback on top of the floor jack and while I kept checking the guide bolts for free play.
A final smack with a single jack at the back of the floor jack sent her all the way home !!!
You are better off without the gasket, and using the gasket maker as specified. Gasket maker is an anaerobic sealer that is different than any of the RTV sealers. But I would use RTV if you don't have anaerobic sealer. It should only take a very small bead.
After work today, I utilized more ratchet strap innovations to get the TC up and back in place by myself.
Note that both strap ends had to loop OVER the top of the frame on each side in order to raise the TC to the necessary height.
What you DON'T see is the working end of the red/black strap which connects to the leaf spring of the Toyota truck parked in the next stall.
All of the straps adjusted to tension just right allowed me one hand to turn the output shafts in order to match the splines and one foot to push it home
Of course if it wasn't an hour drive each way to town, I would/should have just rented a scissor jack.
In the first pic, just over the transfer case and held up by a fender washer and nylock, you can also see how nicely the Resonix revamped transmission tunnel sound and heat insulating blanket came out.
Im happy to report that the new Mopar 5086341AA that I bought through Amazon seems genuine and of high quality.
I punched the the old one out with a small cold chisel and pressed the new one in with a short piece of 3" ABS pipe.
I did end up first chamfering the inside of one end of the 3" pipe for a better fit where the boor flares at the seal.
Also, smeared just a bit of grease on it to make pressing it in smoother/easier.
I even located the small drain hole properly at the bottom
The sealers applied correctly will never leak. The gasket has the potential to leak, or weep over time. Nothing wrong with a gasket, but if the surfaces are flat and clean, and they were designed for sealer, you will get a better seal out of the sealer.
Anerobic sealers are generally used where the surfaces are very flat and there is very little sealer used. The actual sealing surface is only a few thousandths thick. RTV or Three Bond is generally used where there is more variation in gap (larger parts) or where there is a T-joint where the gap may be much larger. Most people that use RTV or Three Bond still apply way more than necessary.
Today after work I got the transmission filled from the top with all 8 quarts of the Amsoil MTG 75-90 that @AH64ID sent me.
Then I used the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker that @sag2 recommended to seal the shift tower back onto the G56. I already had a tube here so it was no loss, except a short bit of time, to use it instead of the fiber gasket I already made. You can see the Gasket Maker pressed out of the shift tower connection in the first pic.
The I also made another small blanket to completely seal of the larger opening of the shift and TC boots at the top of the transmission tunnel before reinstalling the shifter boots and console.
Second Pic.
I used more of the same high quality product from ResoNix that I used to revamp the falling apart OEM sound/heat blanket over the G56. It was their Silver Aluminum faced Fiber Mat.
Heres some earlier pics of the extra thick Resonix CLD tiles I stuck up on the underside of the transmission tunnel to quiet down the gear rollover noise.
Oh yeah, I ALSO installed the new stop and go pedal. Well Im calling them new, but they have been sitting on a shelf in the shop for at least 6 years now.
Machined, formed and anodized non-slip aluminum pads… drilled, tapped and threaded into the OEM pedal.