In cab controls for airbags

[SRadke]

I plan to plumb up a set of in cab controls for my airbags. I'm considering a couple difrent ways to do this. I could use 12v selenoids and run electric wires or plumb hoses all the way to the cab and use a pair of three way valves. Either way I'll want a pressure gauge for each bag and the ability to control each independantly.

My question is for those of you who have experience with this. Did you uses the mechanical or electronic method, and where did you mount this display of gauges and switches? Thanks for your imput.

-Scott

 

[tgbol]

You might check out this set up made by Firestone.

http://www.ride-rite.com/Air Accessories.htm

we have them on some trucks at work. They work pretty good. and they are simple.

 

[Bill Stockard]

I have the Air Lift 5000s for hauling my heavy camper. I use the Load Controller II with the Dual Gauge setup to control the air pressure in each air bag separately. For more info check out:



http://www.airliftcompany.com/new-index/Frameset.htm



The Dual Gauge system is Part Number 25812, which gives control of the pressure of each air bag individually. You monitor the pressure in each bag with each gauge, the compressor on/off switch, and individual air bag pressure release valves are on the panel. The pressure switches that keep the pressure above 5 PSI in each air bag are in the air line under the dash.



I had this system on my '00 3500 DRW and changed the dual gauge controller and compressor over to my '03 3500 DRW. The in cab controls and compressor were one of the few things that would fit the new truck.



I mounted the control panel low on the dash to the right of the steering wheel so I could monitor the pressure and reach the controls. I ran the air lines and wiring through the hood release cable grommet in the firewall. The air lines and wiring don't show when sitting in the front seats. I mounted the air compressor under the floor board in the area under the left rear seat. Works great and no problems.



The Firestone Ride Rite system is very similar and will work just as well. I would go with the one I got the best deal on.



Bill

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Originally posted by Bill Stockard

I have the Air Lift 5000s for hauling my heavy camper. I use the Load Controller II with the Dual Gauge setup to control the air pressure in each air bag separately. For more info check out:



Bill

I spent $400 putting them on my truck and was really unhappy with how they work. I pulled them out and have to try and get my money back from them. Basically they way they are mounted the bottom out with just a couple inches of travel. It doesn't allow you to squat the back of the truck down at all hardly, pour design.

 

[OTRPU]

Got the Controller I, didn't see I needed individual control. But wouldn't be without one or the other. Makes hooking up any kind of trailer alittle simpler at times. Stead of adjusting the trailer I adjust the rear truck height. In particular nice for installing spring arms of equalizing hitch. Bout run outta places for guages in the cab so I installed a Shelf-It. As many times as I hook up, the bags are really indespensible for hooking and controlling ride height.



http://www.autostyles.com/shelfit.htm#DODGE



Installed the Controller I on this. Mounted the CB there also.



Be Safe,

Steve J.

 

[SRadke]

Thanks guys, this is all good info. Most of these kits use mechanical switches, am I correct? You have to run at least 3 air lines up to the switch/gauge assembly to control both bags independantly? I intend to do it myself rather than buying a kit because I already have the air and I wonder how the professionals do it.



Mopar_Mudder-

You said they only allow a couple inches of travel down. Does this mean the airbags bottom out before the axle comes down on the rubber stops? That doesn't sound too good. Would they not bottom out on a good bump also?

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Originally posted by SRadke

Thanks guys, this is all good info. Most of these kits use mechanical switches, am I correct? You have to run at least 3 air lines up to the switch/gauge assembly to control both bags independantly? I intend to do it myself rather than buying a kit because I already have the air and I wonder how the professionals do it.



Mopar_Mudder-

You said they only allow a couple inches of travel down. Does this mean the airbags bottom out before the axle comes down on the rubber stops? That doesn't sound too good. Would they not bottom out on a good bump also?

The bags actually bolt in place of the rubber stops, and yes they will bottom out long before you get to the over load on the leaves.



It only takes 2 air lines to the gauges. The way it works is the compress fills both air bags at the same time. The you have individual bleed valve for each line at the guages to take them down to the pressure that you want. Pretty simple really.



Here is a link to the instruction, their is a diagram of how it is plumbed



http://airlift. r-catalog.com/ImgVD/AIL/MN-337(25812).pdf

 

[SRadke]

You're right Mopar_Mudder, this system only requires two air lines. My system will utilize compressed air in a storage tank that I already have so I do not have the option of turning it on and off without another valve. It's not a big deal, I just need a fill line to each bag and a common high pressure line to fill them with. Both can be vented at the valves/gauges. This will allow totally independant control both up and down for the bags. That is a great link you provided, thanks.

-Scott

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

Firstone Airbags

Like Bill stockard earlier in this thread, I too have the Firestone Air Lift 5000s for hauling my heavy camper.



Here's a picture of the in-cab set-up.

#ad

 

[Duck]

Here's a link to my install thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=75502



Obviously I went with mechanical valves, mounted them in the lower storage bin. I got the dual gauge and reversed the flow for one of the needles so it reads tank pressure.



Why do you want independant adjustibility? Camper or uneven loads in the bed?? If you're mainly towing then I don't see the benefit.



I'm really happy with the Firestone's and my installtion.

 

[SRadke]

Thanks Duck, those are great pictures of your install. It looks like you've got a great system there.

I would like to have fully independant adjustability for a couple reasons. First because it make leveling a camper really easy and second because I load my quad in many odd places. If I back up to a dirt bank that isn't level I want to pump up one side and make the pickup closer match the bank. I suppose leveling an off center load could be a third benifit but that would be a rare occurence.

Anyway, thanks to all you guys for your responses.

-Scott

 

[Kilby]

SRadke, check out Dakota Digital if you like digital gauges. http://www.dakotadigital.com/products.cfm?Category=144

 

[JWhitcomb]

Mudder, I had problems bottoming out also. What I did is make some spring slippers to allow the over loads to come into play sooner. Now I only bottom on really nasty pot holes. I think the air bags work best when the overloads are removed. Plenty of travel then.

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Removing the over load will not increase your travel. Also bottoming the bags out will wreck them eventually. My biggest problem is you have to leave the back of the truck so high the trailer doesn't pull as good as when it sits down level. I also notice more axle wrap when taking off which I assume is beacuse the springs aren't loaded with enough weight.



Ideal you should be able to sit the truck dead level with a load on it. With thoose air bags you can't even get it to level because the bags bottom out.



What happens when you blow out a bag with a heavy load???? It would be interesting.

 

[Duck]

Since my truck has the leveling kit, when I put any serious weight in the back the nose goes up. I installed the leveling bags to level out the ride.

If you're suspension is stock, and whatever you're pulling isn't putting you past level, then I wouldn't bother with them.

 

[SRadke]

It sounds like the way most airbag systems mount in the third gens (on top of the axle) they don't have much room for compression. Perhaps a new mounting method should be designed more like the second gens where they mount up on top of the leaf springs? This is more difficult with a frame that you aren't suppose to drill or weld on. The bags are also not as safe from road debris when sitting on top of the axle.



I'll do a side by side comparison of an air bag equipped truck and one without and see if I can determine exacly what the suspension travel diffrences are in the 03's.

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

I considered taking a 2gen system and putting in on my 3rd gen. Problem is that I already have the B&W goosneck hitch that clamps around the frame. So I would have to weld bracket for the top air bag mount to the B&W side plates. Too much messin around for what it is worth.



I came up with only around 3" of suspension compression before the bags would bottom out.

 

[Bob V]

An easy, cheep way to plumb the air bags for in cab control is to use a relieving type regulator(s). The relieving type regulator will bleed off air when turned down. A side benefit is the air pressure would stay constant if you had a small leak. I used this set up on the front of a Ford F350 I had and it worked good.

Bob V

 

[SRadke]

This afternoon I compared a truck equipped with Firestone bags to a stock truck. Both were 03 2500's. I determined after the removal of the rubber axle stops (to install the airbags in their place) the overall travel of the rear axle was reduced about 1 inch. This doesn't seem like much but they only have about 4-5 inches to begin with. I guess we loose approximately 20% of our travel with airbags installed. To clarify, that is 20% of the suspension travel beyond what the weight of the truck compresses the springs.

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Originally posted by SRadke

This afternoon I compared a truck equipped with Firestone bags to a stock truck. Both were 03 2500's. I determined after the removal of the rubber axle stops (to install the airbags in their place) the overall travel of the rear axle was reduced about 1 inch. This doesn't seem like much but they only have about 4-5 inches to begin with. I guess we loose approximately 20% of our travel with airbags installed. To clarify, that is 20% of the suspension travel beyond what the weight of the truck compresses the springs.

You have to make up brakets for the top and bottom of the air bags also. The brackets from Air Lift I would say take up atleast 3" of space, which is more then the height of the rubber stop that you took out. Then add in the thickness of the air bag and it doesn't leave you much.