Injector Problem - Intermittent Return Flow Light, Now Fuel in Oil

[FPollard]

My 2006 has intermittently been displaying the grid heater light while chiming 3 times (I think) for a while now. Initially I didn't think it could be the injectors, because I had a shop replace them less than 40,000 miles ago. I swapped out all of the other parts that could cause the problem, but it persisted intermittently. Thursday I was heading home from a job site when for the first time my oil pressure "gauge" dropped to 0. I shut the truck off, restarted it and it was back to normal until I pulled into my driveway, when it dropped to 0 again. When I got out, I notice what looked like oil, but smelled like diesel on my back bumper, prompting me to check the dipstick. The reading on the dipstick was way over the full mark and smelled of diesel as well, so I set about the task of pulling my injectors. I noticed that both bolts holding down 3 of the injectors were quite loose, could that be my problem?

I really don't have the money at the moment to purchase a full set of injectors and I need to get my truck back up and running if possible. My next question is, how do I determine which injector(s) are bad? Can I get by for a few thousand miles by just replacing the bad injectors? Lastly, I can't figure out what injectors the shop installed previously, can anyone tell me from these pictures? The nozzles look like they have 8 ports and they were supposed to be new +100hp Bosch units.

 

[Ozymandias]

That Diesel came out on the top side, valve cover. Otherwise you would have a hell of withe smoke from the exhaust.
Probably the problem has been the loose hold down bolts, put on set of new copper seal rings, torque them down properly and try again. And clean the sealing surfaces before doin so. There was some dirt on them from the installer i can see on your picture.
Also torque the cross over tubes to the latest spec.

You want save money - it's six seal rings for a couple cents. Give it a try.

 

[FPollard]

That Diesel came out on the top side, valve cover. Otherwise you would have a hell of withe smoke from the exhaust.
Probably the problem has been the loose hold down bolts, put on set of new copper seal rings, torque them down properly and try again. And clean the sealing surfaces before doin so. There was some dirt on them from the installer i can see on your picture.
Also torque the cross over tubes to the latest spec.

You want save money - it's six seal rings for a couple cents. Give it a try.

Thanks for the advice... Yeah, the diesel oil combo was coming out the overflow tube I believe... Who carries the copper seal rings?

 

[sag2]

Unlikely it's because they were loose. If they're loose they're going to leak back on the return flow side because there's an o-ring that keeps it from going into the crankcase. More likely that you've got a cracked injector body. Before you tore it apart you should have fired it up and looked with the valve cover off and see if you can find the one that's leaking

 

[sag2]

If you can't see it spraying take a piece of white paper with it running and dip it into the oil around each injector. If there's one leaking it's going to be much thinner and lighter oil residue on the paper

 

[Ozymandias]

Unlikely it's because they were loose. If they're loose they're going to leak back on the return flow side because there's an o-ring that keeps it from going into the crankcase. More likely that you've got a cracked injector body. Before you tore it apart you should have fired it up and looked with the valve cover off and see if you can find the one that's leaking

I just recommended the cheapest possible way to start from.

Seal rings are available from shops specializes in Diesel Engines.

 

[FPollard]

Unlikely it's because they were loose. If they're loose they're going to leak back on the return flow side because there's an o-ring that keeps it from going into the crankcase. More likely that you've got a cracked injector body. Before you tore it apart you should have fired it up and looked with the valve cover off and see if you can find the one that's leaking

Yes, I was looking for mist, but I couldn't see any. Is there a better way to identify a fuel leak?

 

[FPollard]

I just recommended the cheapest possible way to start from.

Seal rings are available from shops specializes in Diesel Engines.

Thanks, we have a Cummins store in town, but that's about it in Flagstaff....

 

[Ozymandias]

Thanks, we have a Cummins store in town, but that's about it in Flagstaff....

They have them.

 

[FPollard]

If you can't see it spraying take a piece of white paper with it running and dip it into the oil around each injector. If there's one leaking it's going to be much thinner and lighter oil residue on the paper

Since I already have the injectors out, I may just swap the seals and rings then start it again and use the paper test method.

 

[Ozymandias]

Since I already have the injectors out, I may just swap the seals and rings then start it again and use the paper test method.

Wear safety goggles while doin so.
Then you can disconnect the FCA to raise the Injection pressure to 21K instead of only 6K at idle. Dont do this any longer then 30sec at a time or you harm the PRV, let it cool of if one attempt enough to determine the leak.

 

[FPollard]

Wear safety goggles while doin so.
Then you can disconnect the FCA to raise the Injection pressure to 21K instead of only 6K at idle. Dont do this any longer then 30sec at a time or you harm the PRV, let it cool of if one attempt enough to determine the leak.

Thanks so much, I really appreciate the assistance!

 

[cerberusiam]

Those are the smaller production run marine injectors, what is called a 50 hp injector.

If they were loose or not seated you might be over pressuring the return circuit. That generally never ends well, push fuel past the CP-3 seal and crack solenoids. Since you have them out check each solenoids and make sure they are with no obvious damage. Check the cross over tubes closely for mating issues on the tips, hopefully you got new cross over tubes with the injectors. If not get a new set. Unless you are running a tuner get the 5.9 tubes not the nwere style 6.7's. Reinstall properly after cleaning of the injectors holes with a brush and flushing with cleaner Then see if you have leaks around the injectors.

 

[FPollard]

Those are the smaller production run marine injectors, what is called a 50 hp injector.

If they were loose or not seated you might be over pressuring the return circuit. That generally never ends well, push fuel past the CP-3 seal and crack solenoids. Since you have them out check each solenoids and make sure they are with no obvious damage. Check the cross over tubes closely for mating issues on the tips, hopefully you got new cross over tubes with the injectors. If not get a new set. Unless you are running a tuner get the 5.9 tubes not the nwere style 6.7's. Reinstall properly after cleaning of the injectors holes with a brush and flushing with cleaner Then see if you have leaks around the injectors.

Well, I saved number 6 for last and there is definitely damage (see below), but I'm not certain if the shop put it in with this damage or what the heck happened to it. The cross over tubes all looked good. I cleaned all of the injectors and tubes by soaking them in Coleman fuel, then wiping them down, blowing them clear with shop air, installing new o-rings (both injector and crossover) and copper seals before reinstalling, except for #6 pictured here. I do run a Smarty tuner, what impact does that have on the crossover tubes?

- Any idea what could have caused this damage?
- Do you have any idea what the part number on these injectors are and where in the heck I might find another on?

 

[cerberusiam]

The Bosch part number you want is 0445120254. The 254 stamped on the top of the solenoid tells the actual last 3 of the part #.

Nasty damage there, where did you get those injectors from? That might be your fuel in oil problem if that gouge in the body is into the fuel area.

A tuner will usually cover up issues with the grid heater light from having the larger injectors and cross over tubes installed. A stock tune will sometimes not like the different parts as it messes with its fuel used calculation.

 

[FPollard]

The Bosch part number you want is 0445120254. The 254 stamped on the top of the solenoid tells the actual last 3 of the part #.

Nasty damage there, where did you get those injectors from? That might be your fuel in oil problem if that gouge in the body is into the fuel area.

A tuner will usually cover up issues with the grid heater light from having the larger injectors and cross over tubes installed. A stock tune will sometimes not like the different parts as it messes with its fuel used calculation.

That's kind of what I was thinking. I had a local shop install the set a couple of years back due to 2 of the original injectors failing prematurely, along with a FASS 150gph dual filter lift pump. The gouge cut into the body of the injector a bit (see picture below), so I am guessing you are right about my fuel in the oil problem. I don't have a clue how it held up as long as it did or why it finally gave way. Any idea who might carry these who would be willing to sell a single injector? Three of the injectors had hold down bolts that weren't even finger tight when I pulled them...

My truck hasn't complained with my Smarty PODS S06 running tunes 3, 5 or 7 so far and I've had it 3-4 years...

 

[cerberusiam]

Diesel Auto Power or Injectors Direct or Engineered Diesel. One or all of them should sell you a single injector.

 

[FPollard]

Diesel Auto Power or Injectors Direct or Engineered Diesel. One or all of them should sell you a single injector.

Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it!

 

[Ozymandias]

That looks like chaving, is there something with the valve train out of alignement or broken?
From the angle it looks a lot like the valve bridge leaned on it.
Better check out the valve lash at that cylinder, and better, check them all.

 

[FPollard]

That looks like chaving, is there something with the valve train out of alignement or broken?
From the angle it looks a lot like the valve bridge leaned on it.
Better check out the valve lash at that cylinder, and better, check them all.

I don't know about chafing, the damage looks like chipped glass or porcelain, like the metal shattered almost. The valve train looked perfectly fine when I was running the engine with the valve cover off to check for injector leaks, but I was planning on checking the valve lash on all of the cylinders while I have it all apart anyhow.