Injector pump leak

[JJump]

I have recently noticed the smell of fuel when opening the hood to plug in the block heater. Yersterday I located a small leak on my injection pump. The leak is coming from a very small rigid line that hooks up to a device mounted to the outboard side of the injection pump. The line originates at a banjo fitting on top of the pump, just aft of the gearbox mounting flange. The leaking end terminates with an internal flare nut threaded into the device. The device is cylindrical, about 1 inch in diameter & 2 inches long, and oriented fore & aft; the line enters from the top into the side of the cylinder. A wire is hooked up to the aft end of the device.



The fuel is leaking up through the flare nut along the tube. I wiped the fitting clean with a paper towel (at idle, warm engine), and the drip would re-appear in about 10-15 seconds. I tried to tighten the flare nut (8 mm open end wrench) but it seemed tight, so I left bad enough alone.



I called the local Bosch diesel injection shop & they said the device has something to do with cold starting-called it a K??. They recommended replacing the tube since there was no replaceable seal at that end, and said they probably had the part in stock.



The banjo bolt at the drive flange end is not standard; its a button headed bolt that has 2 flats on it for installation/removal. There doesn't seem to be much room to fit an open end wrench or even a crow's foot on the bolt with the pump installed on the gearcase-the injection shop had no suggestions other than to remove the pump from the engine & use an open end wrench.



So here is the $64 question: Is there a special tool, socket, or a method that can be used to remove/install this banjo bolt without removing the pump from the engine?



Any suggestions appreciated!



Joe Jump

St Louis

 

[formula]

Joe,

The line in quesiton is part of the KSB mechanism, which advances the injection timing as a function of engine rpm and/or intake air temperature. When the engine is cold, the solenoid on the side of the pump is activated which in turn sends pressure through the little line to the internal pressure regulator on the front of the pump. This creates increased internal pump pressure and results in the injection timing being advanced.



I'd suggest caution in removing the banjo type fitting from the top of the regulator spool. I'm not sure if it's threaded or pressed in. Definitely do not move the pin in the center of the fitting up or down. That pin sets the spring tension on the regulator spool and is quite sensitive.



Sean

 

[dpuckett]

Joe,



Sounds like rebuild time, or at least a reseal kit into it. Ask the shop if they can bench time the pump, (if they cant, find a different one), and do the R&R yourself. It isnt hard at all. Just get a Chitlon manual, and follow the directions. Have your engine at TDC, (use one of the methods mentioned in the archives to locate it- the pin isnt always dead on). That way, when it is timed to 1. 5, you can just put it on, bolt it up, and you'll be ready to go. But, if finances are tight, and you cant afford it, it should be ok if it is just dripping now. The 93 W350 I had is leaking like a seive (looked at it a few weeks ago), and still getting 18 mpg in town, and pulling a trailer w/ 3 horses. I'll get up there someday, and give ya a hand, but dont wait on me, though.



Daniel

 

[JJump]

Well, I devised my own tool to remove the banjo bolt. I took a 1/4"drive 10mm 6 point socket and, using a 3" cut-off wheel in my die grinder, cut the sides out of the socket leaving just two parallel surfaces. It fits the banjo bolt fine & should be strong enough to do the job.



Sean, I'd apreciate it if you could be a bit more specific about the pin under the banjo bolt. I pretty sure that the bolt is threaded vice a press fit since the tech at the injection shop told me to use a wrench. Do you think the pin will automatically be disturbed just by removing the bolt, or is the pin threaded in there, so if I am careful I won't mess anything up? Where can I get some books on this pump? The info here on the TDR is good, but I guess I'm not too smart because it isn't enough for me.



Daniel, there should be no reason to pull the pump. The leak is on the external line & the parts are available. Now I have a tool, all I need to do is make sure I don't screw anything up removing and replacing the tube. I think I'll talk to the injection shop again and ask them about the pin under the banjo bolt that Formula was talking about.



I believe there are other folks on this forum who are familiar with these pumps - how about a few words of wisdom?



Thanks for the help!



Joe Jump

St Louis

 

[Camara]

My sons was leaking between the block and the pump. I thought it was the KSB. So I changed it and the leak got worse. Took the pump off and sent it for a rebuild.