Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injector pump replacement

[Ramtuf1]

Well, truck just died on the road two nights ago. Had to have it towed to dealer as need ASAP for work. Report was that VP44 crapped out and $2200. 00 for new one from Dodge. Sort of stuck as I know I could have found it cheaper through some of our vendors associated with TDR. In any case, here is my question: Is it a good time to have the killer dowel pin kit installed? I'm not sure what covers have to be removed to change out the VP44 but since the mechanics will have it apart, is the access to the dowel exposed in the normal VP44 repair procedure?



I thought of ordering the kit from Geno's and having it one day expressed to my home. Then would have the dealership install the kit as a preventative. Engine covers have never been off so I'm not sure if the dowel has started to move or not.



Can anyone expand on my concern?

 

[Sticks]

The 01 KDP was rare. I would not stress on it unless you are starting to show signs of it (inner timing cover gasket getting squished out above dowel pin location, and oil leak at same location).



No, the VP replacement does not involve making the KDP fix easier or accessible for inspection.



If you do not need your truck ASAP, then I would order a pump from a reputable reman shop and DIY. You do not need all that many tools to do it.

 

[Sticks]

I thought I had a thread dedicated to the replacement procedure but can not find it. So here it is again.



VP44 replacement

Read these directions completely before you start. Look at your engine and read it again. Step 11 under installation requires some advance planning.



Tool list

3/8 ratchet

1/2 ratchet

1/2" Torque wrench

8" 3/8 extension (wobble is best)

3/8" drive 10mm socket

11mm deep socket

15mm socket

13mm socket

19mm (or 3/4) wrench (angle wrench is best)

17mm wrench

8mm wrench or 1/4" drive socket and ratchet

T-50 torx

Small "T" puller or gear puller

Pliers

Oil filter wrench or strap wrench

1/2" drive 24mm socket (alternator nut)

1/2" drive 27mm socket (vp44 axle nut)

3# retrieval magnet

Inspection mirror

Flashlight

Catch pan



1. Either disconnect the batteries, or cover the drivers side battery with a fender cover

2. Loosen the top intercooler boot clamp on the intake hat.

3. Remove the 5 10mm bolts on the intake hat (4 hold down and one for the oil dipstick). Remove the intake hat and place on the work bench. Lift the grid heater and lay it over on the PDC (next to the battery)

4. Using a piece of bailing wire or the like, pull the intercooler tube over to the drivers battery and secure it out of your way (wire to the battery hold down clamp).

5. Remove the 3 13mm bolts on the TPS housing. Lift up and disconnect the wire harness. If your unit has the harness holder on it, use a flat blade screwdriver to open it and lay the TPS housing by the gird heater.

6. Remove the first three 10mm bolts that hold the injector lines down to the engine, starting from the front of the engine.

7. Disconnect the two wire harness connectors on the fire wall to give you more work room to cyl. 5 and 6.

8. Disconnect the VP44 wire harness

9. Now I like to get the fuel filter out of the way for more room, so I remove the rear 17mm banjo from the fuel filter (line from the LP). You can skip these (***) fuel filter steps if you wish) You are going to want to place a catch pan ender the engine.

10. Drain the fuel filter into a catch pan – water drain, make sure you close it when it is drained (***)

11. Remove the two 10mm mounting bolts holding the fuel filter. (***)

12. Remove the 8mm bolt, cap, and blue bushings on the injector line clamp just in front of the lifting eye by cylinder #5.

13. Release the clamp on the crank case breather hose and remove the hose.

14. Using the oil filter pliers, unscrew the crank case breather on the timing cover and remove.

15. Remove the 27mm nut on the VP44 axle. Using a 3# magnet or better, grab the lock washer on the axle and remove ***DO NOT DROP IT DOWN THE TIMING COVER***

16. Emergency brake on, vehicle in neutral or park, use the 24mm socket on the alternator pulley and rotate the engine CCW until the notch on the VP44 timing gear is at 12 o’clock. Inspection mirror and a flashlight is handy.

17. Use the T-puller to separate the timing gear from the VP44 axle. Two threaded holes in the gear. It will “pop” and move back and forth when free. Remove the puller. More detailed info as posted by MACHINEST - The gear stays in the housing, make sure the key is at 12:00, there is 2 ea drilled and taped holes in the gear, back the nut off about 3/16 of an inch,put a puller on the gear and pop it losse,then take the nut and washer off,have a screw driver at the end of the pump shaft when doing this,because you don't want to drop the nut and washer in the gear set... be very carefull when putting the pump back into the gear,woodriff key,and if not lined up perfict you will roll the key out of the pump and if will fall you know where... A good lite and a small mirrow should help.....

18. Remove the 17mm banjo from the VP44 fuel supply from the filter. Catch the washer on the inside.

19. Lay the fuel filter down in the bottom of the engine compartment out of the way. (***)

20. Remove the 19mm banjo return valve from the VP44. Catch the washer on the inside.

21. Use the 19mm wrench to unscrew the injector lines at the valve cover.

22. Looking at the back of the injection pump, top is 12 o’clock, battery is 9, unscrew the 6, 7:30, and 9:45 injector lines and remove (should be cylinders 1,2, and 4).

23. Unscrew the 12, 4:30 and 2:15 (in this order is easiest) and remove.

24. Using the 15mm socket and extension, remove the four nuts on the VP44. Two outside (battery side) and two inside (block side).

25. Using the 13mm socket remove the two lower bolts on the rear support bracket (block side next two the PS pump). Now I have seen 10mm, and 15mm bolts down there, depending on year. Sometimes only one.

26. Remove the VP44.

27. Now on the 98. 5 – 2000, there was a rear support bracket that was a real poor design and broke. If you encounter this (yours is broke), you will need to replace it and there is some work involved. YOU MUST HAVE THE REAR SUPPORT!!! If yours is broken, and you do not replace it, you will trash your pump.

28. Set the old pump upside down on your bench next to the new one. Make sure they are oriented the same. Transfer the support plate from the old pump to the new.

29. Stand both injection pumps on end and clock the two axles the same. The top of the injection pump (circuit board) being 12 o’clock, and if you rotated the engine, your old pump key way should be at about 10:45. DO NOT TURN THE OLD PUMP SHAFT!!!

30. Using a paint marker, or some sort of bright color paint, color the front edge of the key, and a straight line down the shaft threads to the tip of the axle on the new pump. This will help you make sure it is aligned correctly when you install.

31. Make sure the new pump has the o-ring installed on the mounting flange.

INSTALLATION

1. Set the new pump into position and insert into timing gear. Start 1 or 2 of the 15mm nuts on the studs to hold the pump in position.

2. Using the inspection mirror and light, look at the gear from the front of the engine and see if the line you painted is lined up with the notch in the gear. You should be able to see the front edge of the key through the notch. If not, remove the pump and adjust. DO NOT CONTINUE UNTIL YOU GET IT LINED UP. If the key is “almost there, only a 64th of an inch off” it is not there. It is possible to press the gear onto the pump with the key not aligned and really screw things up.

3. Snug up all 4 15mm nuts on the mounting studs.

4. Set the new lock washer and nut on the VP44 axle, and snug (35 ft #)

5. Remove the nut and washer (DO NOT DROP WASHER INTO TIMING COVER) and verify that the key is in the notch 100% lined up. If not, remove pump and inspect key for damage and adjust clocking, return to step 1.

6. Once the key is verified, install the two rear support bolts and tighten, torque the injection pump axle nut to 125# and tighten the 4 15mm mounting nuts.

7. Install the injector lines in reverse of removal (block side first) Tighten the valve cover ends finger tight, then back off ½ turn.

8. Mount the fuel filter back into position and install the banjos (filter and VP44).

9. Install the fuel return valve and line to the VP44.

10. Connect the VP44 wire harness

11. Now, I have a tool at work that hook up to the LP to run it constantly. After I have the feed lines connected to the VP (filter installed and return line) I connect the pump to the battery and start priming the system. You can use a “T” pin to back probe the POSITIVE side of the LP wire harness and a jumper wire to the battery positive, and the NEGATIVE side to ground (red wire + black wire - if you have a new extension). VERIFY WHICH IS POSITIVE IF YOU DO THIS BEFORE YOU START!!! You can cook your pcm if you do the wrong wires. You can prime by “bumping” the starter for the 30 second LP run time. I decided this was a PITA going back and forth from the engine to the ignition 15 or 20 times.

12. With the pump running, watch all the valve cover end injection lines for fuel. It will typically do 2 at a time, starting at #3. Wiggle the lines in and out to let the fuel/air out. Once you get good fuel flow, no bubbles, tighten the lines up and rotate the engine via alternator CCW (about ½ to ¾ turn on the alt) continue this until all 6 lines are bled. I will start assembling the other removed parts in reverse of removal as I do this (waiting for the air to bleed out) Skip the rotating the engine via the alternator if your are doing the bump the starter method

a. Crank breather valve, and hose

b. Hand thread the injector line mounting bolts

c. Grid heater and intake hat (only after #2 is bled and tightened)

d. Connect the wire harness’ at the fire wall (only after 5 and 6 are done)

e. TPS housing (only after #1 is bled and injector line mount is tightened)

13. Once all the lines are bled, tighten the injector mounting bolts, and the 8mm bolt, and blue bushings. Remove the pump power bypass if you used this method.

14. Verify that everything is installed and tightened up. Start the engine.

15. If you are having difficulty starting, you may have to crack open the injector lines on 1, 3, 4, and maybe 5. and crank the engine until you have good fuel flowing at the injector lines. Tighten them back up and try to start again.

16. Once the engine is running, visually verify that there are no fuel leaks. DO NOT CHECK FOR LEAKS BY HAD WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!!!

17. Go to the car wash to wash off the fuel drippins from the engine and go for a 5 minute drive. Verify that there are no fuel leaks. # 6 is notorious for leaks (because you can’t get it tight enough due to lack of room to work).



This is a “Do it at your own risk” list of suggested procedures. The author accepts no responsibility for any individual attempting to perform repairs on their own vehicle if injuries or damages occur.

 

[Sticks]

I've read through it and it is still pretty much the same way I still do it. I have a couple special tools now that change a couple of steps. I know in one of my more recent references to this post I did make some adjustments but I can not remember what.

I have about a 1 in 7 fail to start within 5 seconds from the fuel bleeding method described in #11. It works.

When bleeding the air from the injector lines, move the catch pan to the back of the engine (fuel runs towards #6 and off the back). First placing of the pan is on the drivers side under the axle about 6" from the tire.

Using a paper towel or thick plastic, drape it over the 15mm nut then press the socket onto it to hold it in the socket, tear off the excess. This makes threading the inboard VP44 mounting nuts much easier (they don't fall out of the socket).

MAKE SURE YOUR FUEL SUPPLY PRESSURE IS 10PSI OR HIGHER!!! Gotta know what killed your VP, and it is usually low fuel pressure. If your fuel supply is weak, you will damage the new VP in short order.

We really need a DIY sub forum in these forum categories. There are lots of member write ups for doing what would be expensive dealer or shop work. I've done at least 3, and have read dozens of others. Hard to find them years later.

 

[TboneMan]

I was just about to start a new post on my experience.



You have choices. Don't let them force you into a spending more than you want. Ask then what they'd charge just to install a pump you purchase yourself. Go ahead and order one on-line. Either have it shipped to the dealer or bring it to them after you receive it.



They should have an experienced diesel mechanic and have all the tool necessary to do the job right.



Here' my story. It should sound familiar:



My VP44 through codes last Friday. I talked to my regular mechanic and he said he had replaced one or two over the years (i. e. , very little experience).



I went ahead and ordered a pump from Blue Chip and had it shipped home.



I started thinking, hey why not call the dealer to see if they'd put my Blue Chip pump in. They said sure!



They charged me for 2. 2 hours of labor... $171 out the door.



Now Blue Chip pumps are little more expensive than some others. But I'm still just less than $2,000 total. If you want to get out of it a bit cheaper, there are pumps out there for a little more than $1,000. The labor SHOULD be the inexpensive aspect to this repair.

 

[Sticks]

$80+/- an hour at a dealer... Where???? I charge $60 an hour for side work. I can still do a VP and LP in 1. 0 +/- . 25. Interesting to see they lowered the flat rate time. Used to be 4. 0.

Dealer may install the pump, but they will not honor any warranty, and will likely charge more for the install (you won't see it or know how/where - they gotta get their slice of the pie)

 

[TboneMan]

$80+/- an hour at a dealer... Where???? I charge $60 an hour for side work. I can still do a VP and LP in 1. 0 +/- . 25. Interesting to see they lowered the flat rate time. Used to be 4. 0.



Dealer may install the pump, but they will not honor any warranty, and will likely charge more for the install (you won't see it or know how/where - they gotta get their slice of the pie)

It is actually $72/hour + tax. That's not a bad hourly rate around here... Upstate NY... the land of high taxes, high worker's comp, high utilities, high... you name it.



As for warranty... there is none on a 2001... . they've all expired years ago. I wouldn't expect them to warranty the pump, that's the pump vendor's responsibility.



I'll speak for myself, but being able to drop my vehicle off, and have an experienced mechanic work on it is worth something to me.

 

[SHobbs]

I know when I did mine I should have rotated the engine to the 6 O'clock position not 12. I lined mine up at 12 and pulled the pump only to find out that the key was facing down not up. Got lucky nothing fell into the cover.

 

[JMetzger]

If I am not mistaken Carson Dodge charges $92. 00 an hour, Don't hold me to that but I think that is what I saw the last time I was there.

 

[Ramtuf1]

Thanks for all of the responses. I was really caught between a rock and a hard spot when I had it towed. Late at night in middle of snow storm so had it taken to my dealership. They have done lots of work on it and I need to minimize the downtime as I need it for work. Figured I would be better off to let them do it as I get called at weird hours to drive truck out of the area. I also drive school bus. Wife works an hour away so real pain trying to schedule car.



I have been a long time member and have owned the Ram since May of 2000. I have read most all of the forums so I knew what it took to change it but still there was the issue with my job. I almost crapped when they told me the cost of the pump. I figured somewhere around $1200 or so. I do lots of my own work so it wouldn't have been an issue.



I have read many forums on the KDP and since they are going to be working on the front of the engine, thought that if they were close to exposing the pin, might be time to address the issue. I know that the newer 24 valve engines of that generation didn't have that many issues but since it was apart, might be the time.



Check my signature line, I have been using the FASS for several years now and fuel pressure runs right around 15 to 16 P. S. I. so I certainly tried to prevent its failure. 135K miles on it with towing my 5-er and have never let me down. This was first time on side of road or on a flat bed.

 

[Ramtuf1]

Also, thanks 'Sticks" for the procedure to change it out. Hope you were able to cut and paste instead of retyping article again. Great step by step procedure and you are right about DIY forum for those who have the skills and tools.

 

[SHobbs]

Changing the VP44 as stated above is not really that bad. First time I changed mine took about 4-4 1/2 hours to do. Not sure if it was mentioned earlier but, you might need a little heat to get the gear off the pump shaft.

 

[Sticks]

Good luck to you Ramtuf1.

I'd try to negotiate the cost of that pump down. The Bosch Reman shop that I worked at here in Denver charged the dealerships $800-$900 for the pump, and $1100 to the public. That price has gone down since. \

 

[Ramtuf1]

I talked with the parts guy but I need to talk with the service writer and she seems pretty fair. Small town and small dealership and I have had lots of work on car/truck done there. I know her pretty well so maybe she will cut me some slack. I have worked on vehicles most of my life but job and situational constraints were the deciding factor to have towed there.



I'm also pretty good friends with the mechanic doing the work so he should treat it as his own (it's the other woman as wife would say). He has helped me in a pinch several times in the past.



Keep all posted on final damages.

 

[Ramtuf1]

The rest of the story:



Dealership ended up charging me $2500 for the total job (tax included). They gave me a $300 break on the price of the pump.



Now I have another question: The mechanic didn't reconnect the wire coming from the Edge module. Indicated that if he reconnected it, would void the manufacturers 12 month warranty. It seems that I read somewhere that it was an option to connect this wire in the first place but I might be wrong. Can anyone expand on this? I believe that it allows the Edge to modify the injection pulse as selected by the power lever you choose but I'm not sure. Also, what performance results can I expect if I leave it disconnected for a while or should I reconnect it?



As another bit of information, the code set was P1688 which is internal pump controller failure.

 

[Sticks]

The dealer is correct, re-connecting the Edge pump wire will void the warranty (even the Edge EZ with just the can/bus wire connection). Anything that modifies or tweaks the VP beyond normal operation voids the warranty - READ - Performance mods voids warranty of affected parts (unless it is a dealer sold and installed item). DC even has a very detailed inspection procedure for examining a pump that has come in for warranty replacement to see if it has been "tapped". This includes careful examination of the pump wire that is supposed to be tapped, the pump cover screws, and the circuit board. A skilled individual can cover up the evidence.

The Edge Comp pump wire used to be the "May or may not fry the pump, you will find out in about 3 miles. " It was a roll of the dice.

$2500 is still way steep for a VP replacement. Maybe prices are different in NY. In CO, out the door w/o discount would be $1700 to $2100. This is why I posted the detailed procedure for DIY. $1100 for a new pump and 4 hours for the novice is well worth the $600 - $1000 savings. I understand if it is an emergency or you are stranded, but for me, it is well worth the inconvenience to wait to do it yourself.

I sincerely hope you had them do other work than just the pump.

 

[TboneMan]

I have to agree with Sticks that $2,500 is a bit steep, especially since I got out of a very similar situation for only $1,900 by buying a 3rd party pump (likely the most expensive on the market), and having the dealer install the unit.



That said, I've only been stranded once and after all is said and done you do have that "bend over and take it with a smile" feeling.



Mine was the APPS, in the no-man's land between Erie, PA and Cleveland, OH (but still in PA). I had a $200 tow, $600 repair and with no APPS located within driving distance, 3 days of down time so they could get the part... . causing me to rent a small U-Haul for 5 days to continue my trip back and forth to Chicago ($1,500) as I was hauling musical instruments that HAD to be there on time. The musical group I was carrying the instruments did reimburse me for the U-Haul, but that put them into a bit of a financial bind too.



The moral of the story, ***** happens and when it does, smile and be pleasant, thank those who help you, and when you get home... . drink heavily.

 

[Ramtuf1]

Thanks Sticks.



Unfortunately, the only work done was the pump replacement. As I indicated above, it was the lesser of two options to have them do the repair. Guess I'm going to have to work harder for a while to pay for the it.



I was just checking on Edge's web site and reading the installation of the Edge w/Attitude (Attitude not available any more) procedure. The pump wire which was supplied with mine had to be soldered to the pump wire. The later version apparently had an E-Z connector supplied. It makes a much nicer connection. I might solder one on and connect it using that method. I also did read that the pump attachment was optional. Just wondering how much performance I would miss by not connecting it at this point until the warranty runs out. I only use the Edge on settings 1 or 2 as I tow a 5'er and that is it.



Thanks again for the input and go Dodge.....

 

[KKlingbeil]

Dont hold this as fact, but I believe the Edge Juice with Attitude is a newer version of the Edge Comp. With a Comp box, if you dont tap the wire, then it is an Edge EZ which make about 60 RWHP. If you normally run on one, then you wont notice any difference. The rest of the settings will not provide any more power than number one.



Another option is to get a pump cover from Bluechip Diesel Blue Chip Diesel Performance Specialists That allows you to tap the wire using a different method. Check his website for more info on that. Good luck!

 

[Ramtuf1]

Thanks, I'll check out the cover option. I was reading that if towing a heavy load to use power level one. If a light load, two is an option. Nothing higher than that.