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inside the frame weldnut? help

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The installation of drawtite frnt mnt receiver hitch went quickly until the last bolt which tightened until it felt like the weld broke on the inside the frame weldnut. It was pretty tight and felt like it tried to grab about 1/4 of each revolution. The bracket was snug so I thought all was ok for awhile. After approx 100 miles I checked the bolts and that one was gone. After returning home I inspected the bolts I had replaced and found one with approx 3/4 of the thread missing about 1/2 in from the end. Now I think that the weldnut had buggered threads. What is the fix? Buy a tap and clean the threads? Buy a longer bolt and hope to gain purchase with pressure while turning? Drill and tap a bigger hole? I'm one month out of the 3yr warranty so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
You could try tapping the weldnut out to the original size,but it may be a sloppy fit now. Drilling and tapping to the next size may be the best bet,you might consider going to metric to avoid having to go too big. Use Loctite on the bolts this time.
 
Illflem
I didn't explain where the bolt was. It is one of fourthat hold swaybar. They are metric I think, if M10 x 1. 5 x 35mm the OEM have 10. 9 on the top. I appreciate your input. Thanks

mi
 
If they have 10. 9 they're metric. What I'm saying is go to the next size up be it metric or US in order to not have to go too big. Now that I know the bolts you're talking about all I can say is bummer,you have to get those working right. There must be a way the weld nuts were installed in the first place,can you get to it or have the ends of the tube been blocked?
 
There is no way that I know of to get at those nuts - I tried to find a way! When I put my front hitch on, one of the bolts holding on the sway bar was cross threaded so bad that I sheared the head off of the bolt getting it out. Consider yourself lucky that you have the bolt out - that took me nearly 2 hours of drilling alone!! Since you have it out already I'd recommend what I did - use a heli-coil to repair it. You have to drill it out slightly, then tap the threads and insert the heli coil, then put in the new bolt (the heli-coil will take the threads back down to the original bolt size). It'll cost about $40 for the heli coil kit and the tap but believe me you should thank your lucky stars you have the bolt out. I tried an EZ-out first and sheared it off, then had to get the tip of the EZ out removed and THEN drill out the entire bolt. I went through 2 drill bits drilling it out! I've had the heli-coil and front hitch on for over a year now (with a bunch of severe off-roading since then) and it's holding the torque no problem.

------------------
-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 02-25-2001). ]
 
Steve,tip for the future. If you ever break off an ez-out or tap,they can be near impossible to remove. What I've found is if you have access to a stick type arc welder use a 3/16 rod and crank the current up,with a steady hand zap the end of the ez-out with the rod,it will instantly become red hot and very brittle,you can then hit it with a punch and it will shatter into a hundred pieces. Often after this the broken bolt will also come out easily.
 
Illflem,
Steve S,

Thanks for the info. This is the first time I've run into a problem that I needed real help with. It's great of you guys to have responded. Thanks Again PHD
 
Good advice, helicoils are just as strong, or stronger, than the original threads. On the ez out/tap removal WEAR GOGGLES not safety glasses. I am lucky (2 eyes) a lot of co-workers are not so fortunate. I have been a machinist for 25 years now... time flys when your having fun!
 
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