Installed Moog track bar this weekend

[Archive]

Shrimpy said that Standard Auto Parts in League City supplied the Moog parts for his 1st Generation front end rebuild so I gave them a call Saturday morning. They told me they would have the part by 2:00pm and they did.

I figured it would take less than an hour to r&r but I was wrong. I searched my garage high and low for my pickle fork but resorted to a baby sledge. I broke the nut loose on the frame end and wacked it good with the hammer. It popped the stud loose no problem. I then spent the next hour hissing, cussing and fighting that nut before it was finally off because I dinked the treads and the shaft spun at the same rpm as the nut.

There ain't nothing worse than making the same mistake twice... use the right tools; or, don't dink the threads before you take the nut off #ad


The frame end of the track bar was quite a bit larger in diameter than the OEM bar and hopefully, contains a real metal ball cup instead of the plastic crap that was in the OEM piece. The only thing that could be improved would be a groove for the grease seal to fit into.

Moog part #DS1413 165. 00 including tax

Rides good but not perfect. Now, if I could just fix the blasted pull to the right.

Daimler Chrysler... ya'll suck!

243

------------------
-- email address removed --

99 QC 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
[*] PowerEdge on Level III, Walker 21468
[*] VDO Boost and Pyrometer in Autometer Gauge Pod
[*] 285/75/16 Bridgestone MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500 Driving Lights, Husky Liners
[*] Smittybilt Sure-Steps, Magellan 315 GPS mounted on shifter console
[*] and, one helluva pull to the right!

 

[Archive]

243,
Thanks for the info. I need a new one again, My 3rd @60k. #ad

Doug.

------------------
1998. 5,2500,ISB,Auto,CC,4x4,4. 10's,Suregrip,White Sport,Isspro Boost & Pyro,275hp Injectors,VA,PS Boost Module,DTT Valve Body,BD Pressure Lock,16x8 Eagles,295 BFG's,2. 5" Skyjacker Lift,Stockland Seibring Shell.

[This message has been edited by DieselRam (edited 09-04-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

243,

Here is a little tip about getting something like a tie rod end loose without special tools. Loosen the nut and run it on and off until it's easy to turn with your fingers. Put it back on a little just so it will protect the threads it you miss with the hammer. Then hit the part the tapered shaft goes THRU. NOT the end of part where the nut is. That will pop it out very nicely without hurting anything. Then just unscrew the nut with your fingers. Actually, it's quicker this way and does less damage than the fork since it doesn't mess up the grease boot. I've been doing it that way for over 40 years.

------------------
Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Archive]

Thanks Joe, I will use your technique the next time around. Hopefully, not on a trackbar though.

243

 

[Archive]

243,
If you haven't tried this angle for the brake pull, give it some thought... ... ... https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum11/HTML/000018.html

 

[Archive]

Joe. . our old ways are tried and true tested ways. . hehe
remember the removing the frozen pilot bearing trick ... pack it with grease . . insert the input shaft being used as an alignment tool, smack the alignment shaft with the same hammer and walla pilot bearing in hand. .
heck you should start a thread on the "old good ways"
Gary

 

[Archive]

Ron-

I replaced the pads with Performance Friction about a month ago but I did not have high temp grease so I did not remove and clean the pins and rubber bushings.

I did that about a week later. I had planned to do it again this weekend but it was to blasted hot! Houston set a record Sunday at 109.

I have not tried swapping the pads which I will do before I clean the pins. If that does not work, I will clean the pins again; this time, I plan to reassemble the calipers with out the pads to see if I can make it bind.

I priced calipers when I bought the track bar and they are reasonable at 52. 00 each. I may replace them if all else fails.

243

 

[Archive]

246,
Does the Moog track bar have a lifetime warranty?

On your nut delema... OxyAcetaleen Wrench? #ad


Thanks
Mac

------------------
95 Ram 2500 Auto Std Cab, Cat & Muffler Fell off, 125,000 miles.
Bombed-to-be!

 

[Archive]

Yes, it has a lifetime warranty.

243

 

[Archive]

I dunno Gary,

Most of the old tricks I know are obsolete on these new electronic beasts. The tie rod end trick still works but I'll bet the pilot bearing trick won't work with these plastic alignment tools used now. Probably end up with a piece of plastic jammed in the pilot bearing. It works good with the steel transmission input shaft.

Of course, once in a while I get to use some of this stuff. For example, one of my neighbors has decided to restore a '50 Ford. I stopped him before he broke the water pump trying to get it off because he didn't know about the hidden bolt. I seriously doubt that anyone wants to know something like the simple trick to get the end of a Model A pickup rear spring hooked up without endangering your life. Or how to get home after the condensor shorts out in one of those old distributors.

 

[Archive]

Or how to use your windsheid washer tank and pump to get you home when your fuel pump gives out in the middle of nowhere.

 

[Archive]

243,
You may want to read the post by REBEL in the dodge problems thread. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/000477-2.html
Another cause of pulling according to this can be a caster problem that will fall into factory specs but will not drive properly. I found it interesting to read if nothing else.




------------------
2001 black dually,4x4, 6 speed H. O. ,loaded up and then some

 

[Archive]

Joe G. , sometimes just hitting the female, mating half of the tapered bore with ONE hammer will not be sufficient to separate the two pieces. I've always found that opposing, simultaneous blows with TWO hammers works best. This will temporarily distort the bore, thereby releasing the male half.

The nut to protect the threads trick is very good advice! I learned this the hard way in my teens... although, I didn't booger up the threads, the tie-rod dropped onto my head as I was underneath my 4x... 'cause I didn't have anything to keep the tie-rod from dropping when it popped free. Doh! Live and learn. #ad


------------------
'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Amsoil Dual Bypass, Optima yellow tops, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, (censored), Banks 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

[This message has been edited by John (edited 09-10-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

DUNE RACER-

I read those threads too. My caster has been set anywhere from 2-5 degrees and the truck drives about the same. At this point, the only thing I have not done is to install the ball joint bushings that allow the alignment shop to tweak camber and cross caster. The bushings are expensive and I may just have to live with the pull that I have now.

Thanks, 243

 

[Archive]

Hey 243-I have had lotsa brake problems over the past 9 years with dodge cummins-solved them using anti-seize lub on pins and rails calipers slide on. It handles Hi-temp and works very good. Also Performance Friction carbon metallic seem to be best pads also.

------------------
1996-3500 tst stage 3 plate, K&N air filter,4" exhaust,bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-2500-stock.

 

[Archive]

(Sorry for drifting off topic)
Joe G. , you're right, the old "seat of the pants" tricks known by the old school mechanics are a dying art. Ever since I was a kid, I've tried to learn as many of those "old" tricks as I could. I got my start in the world of auto mechanics helping my dad work on his '66 F250 and other 60's vehicles. You know, the ones where if you dropped a wrench while under the hood, it would actually fall through to the ground!
Andy

 

[Archive]

Andy,

Yeah, I've dropped a few wrenches in my day. Once working on an old '49 Chevy pickup I managed to drop a wrench on my buddy under the truck. It almost knocked a tooth out and then he attempted to sit up under the truck. That almost caused a fight!

(oops! what's this got to do with track bars?? #ad
#ad
)

 

[Archive]

Bill-

I used a light coating of high temp grease on the caliper bearing surfaces and relubed the pins today. I also lightly sanded the surface of the Performance Friction pads, cleaned the heck out of the rotors and the pull is gone. I think it's a matter of time before the pull returns. Thanks for the tip on the anti-sieze, I will try it next time.

243

 

[Archive]

Do any of y'all have the part # for the PF pads? Does the inside pad have 2 ears @ the top or is it solid? Do y'all use the PF shoes on the rear also?

Joe G. - thanks for the help Sat. night. I tried to reply to you last night but the e-mail bounced. You're right- it WILL make one take up drinking-AGAIN!

------------------
Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring, cat,& muffler all stolen.