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installed the Carter P4601HP pump ...

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no articat you are right, no need to go that way, one pump is more than sufficient to supply fuel to the VP44.
i was under the impression that both pumps need to be connected will be running on demand the one near the tank to feed the stock and i think that ECM does recieve signals from the stock pump as to if it is drawing any current and if that is the case then it could give error codes, if you know that it does not then i stand corrected, in that case the electrical hook up as you mentioned would work fine.
bob
 
You 'tech' guys are blowing me away with your
knowledge and experiences with this 'Lift Pump PSI' topic, and I don't even have a problem with my pump, but I just like reading your responses(and also your experiences on many other topics) Thanks for taking your time to respond!

I've personally chatted with D/C's Northern California Zone Rep, and also their top Zone Mechanic,(both are members and/or lurkers of the TDR,) and REALLY nice people, (they even put on a clinic at a 'TDR' Rally last year. )
They should, and I hope are, feeding all your 'lift pump' comments to D/C, to make D/C's future RAM Diesels better than any on the road.

Anyway, You guys are awesome!!! I'm sure all who read your responses to our 'rookie' questions really appreciate your answers.
Thanks for being on the TDR #ad


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Y2K Awesome Black LB 3500 QC SLT, 24Valve ETC ISB, 4x4, 4:10 LSD, DTT Custom prepared Auto transmission VB, Power Edge 'EZ', DD2's, K&N, Polished Stull Billet Grill/Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges, Rancho 9000's, Diamond Plated Tool Box, + a bunch of other stuff. Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
hello out there----I have to agree with Articat on the ONE pump unless you plumb it like MM so if one craps out you can hook up the other one in no time--I wouldn't run two pumps cuz if one does bite the bullet we now have proof as there will be too much restriction to pull or push fuel through the other--plus why have two pumps when one will work just fine--right now the Mallory and Barry Grant pumps are working with a different plumbing approaches and we have a Summit pump also--now the Carter moved back by the tank is in the thick of things so we will have some data on it also---just remember to power it off the stock wiring thru a relay---the voltage does change through the stock wiring and this way you'll save your pump from possible premature electrical failure---but if you insist on two pumps I'd wire them together as mentioned earlier thru the relay so they work together--my other advice, if you move the pump back by the tank, is to run a regulator with a separate return line back to the tank instead of tapping into the stock return line so as not to interfere with VP44's return system----chris
 
chris, what about if both pumps are hooked up in parallel,outlet from the tank has a Y and one side of the Y is attatched to the pump near the tank and the other goes to the inlet of the stock pump,outlets of both pumps are again joined together with another Y and from there on it goes to fuel filter and to VP44,and both pumps can be controlled or turned on and off using individual switches,soppose pump near the tank gives up,the stock pump is turned on without using any tools at all, and you get home?
do i make sense ?
please let me know what you think?
bob
 
MM, it is somewhat close to what you have described above with exception of pumps being controlled elecrically. do you think shut off valves are needed? i dont think so as back flow thru either disabled pump will be restricted due to the mechanism of the pump itself,return lines can be configured in more than one way. if shut off valves are needed what do you think about the electrical valves that can control flow?
bob
 
Mopar Muscle,
Does all of this mean that your truck now has more BLAST-OFF capability then when I took a ride in it in Northeast, MD? Ha ha ha nice R&D!

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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually 3. 5" Jardine, Swiss cheese air box
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5"BD exhaust, 16cm^2 housing, DI pyro&boost
Russell
 
CannonBall where did you get Fuel Gauge. Is it mechanical type or does it have electric sender. Thanks
Originally posted by CannonBall:
Mopar, now that I have my fuel pressure gauge installed, the lowest reading that I get is 9. 5 pounds.

My mods are the DDStage1's, VA and the boost module.

I did drill the banjo fittings to 3/16's.

I too was considering the extra pump but I am not sure that it is necessary in my case.



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99 3500 4WD QC 5 speed Us Gear OD All Options including Leather Deep Amethist Stull Stainless Steel Running boards,
 
B. Gill--don't know of any reason why it wouldn't work except I'd add a checkvalve after the tank wye to each pump and would use 2 shutoff valves right before the other wye that connects back to one line-then your not sucking or pushing against the pump you're not using ---chris
 
Bob,
Thanks for the wiring knowledge. I'll hook the back pump up with its own wiring circuit and its own switch. Then run either the original alone or both at the same time. Where am I going wrong?
 
mopar-muscle:
what did that carter P4601HP pump cost? Are you glad you bought it still? Think that is the best solution???

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'99 3500 Quadcab Laramie SLT with customized aluminum flatbed
B&D bombed with Jakebrake, firestone air bags; 3. 54 gears
5 speed,6X4, truck mirrors, trailer towing, and camper pkgs; magview pumpkin cover
Ranger Cb with Messenger kicker; Amsoiled throughout. . .
2000 Peterbilt 379 with Cummins N14plus 500 hp
13 speed fuller, 70 inch Unibilt sleeper
American Class
 
RE Miller , i would have to say it has a bit more zip , saw 370HP to the rear wheels on a dyno only capable of simulating a 5000 lb. load , this was with the TC unlocked ... oh wait , when you rode in my truck the DD3's were not installed and i was also running an EZ edge vs. the VA when in MD.

cost of the pump is $79. 95 from summit plus their 6. 95 handling charge . would i buy it again ??? in a heart beat , i'm a cheap SOB. i'm going to be buying another and use it instead of the factory pump as the back up.

as far as the question of shutoff valves , i think thats the best way , don't need to be back pressurizing the system and i think check balls will make a slight restriction .

my new thought is to have my main system on -8 line and the backup system connected to the original pickup point , the shutoffs just make it easier to switch from one to the other though with 2 seperate pickup points only one WYE block and 2 shutoff will be required .

max340 , once i get the system worked out and dyno it to see what kind of numbers i make , (may do a -6 line to - 8 line comparision to see if a bit more volume actually makes an HP difference ), i will post it here . i may make a kit available to those interested .

i have a source to make the banjo bolts but have seen no real interest ( except for the 2500 plus views of the pics i posted , its a mod most can tackle on their own) in that type of mod of the system except from a couple of members which i will be able to take care of with what i have in hand . i want to thank RAY T. for offering to make the bolts , still thinking of doing it .
 
Bob, I also don't see any reason why you couldn't set things up the way you describe. The only reason I would do it differently is that it will cost a fair amount more money plumbing two lines instead of one, as Earls ore Aeroquip stuff is pricey. If you want to set things up so that you don't need tools, I would hook it up like MM suggested. I have been planning the same thing for my tank module for awhile. I won't bother with the y-block and shutoffs just because a shutoff that is 3/8 NPT or -8 is pretty bulky, and I have the tools I need to change back to stock delivery system in the glovebox. Not to say that the way he's doing it isn't slicker than grease, which it will be. Just so anybody who is interested knows, the entire stock fuel delivery system up to the filter is still on my truck, just disabled. All I need to get things going again is one banjo bolt and a 12mm to 3/8 bushing, an adjustable wrench, and a screwdriver. I tried the conversion back to stock just to see how difficult it would be - it took all of seven minutes. Once I add another pickup at the tank as MM outlined, I won't even need the screwdriver.

Also FYI the Summit Billet fuel pump #SUM-G3134 is still working great. I have about 1500 miles on it and have yet to see it drop below 13psi under any circumstance, and that's with -8 line right to the VP44. $99. 95 it's a great deal IF it holds up over the long haul. Judging only by it's construction and heft I see no reason why not. Good luck to all with your setups!
 
articat,thanks for the reply
what i had said was just a thought
chris and MM are doing the work that we all will benefit from, the way i described if that is possible then all you need to do when your main pump near the tank gives up, flip the switch to the other position and the stock or the pump that we have at that location comes on and cummins is humming again. i am going to wait for the final set up when all of us come up with some thing and then have it on my truck.
that was just a thought of mine that you guys seem to be agreeing with.
every time i start my truck, that engine sound is so reassuring,but knowing the weak link that is the lift pump and you travel 80 miles one way to work is not a very good feeling. #ad
hope that situation will be taken care of soon.
bob
 
MOPAR-Muscle, i just installed a barry grant 220HR pump on my 98 24v, it's loud as hell! Is the Carter quiet? like a stock pump or can you hear it while the truck is running?
 
MM--good point about the check valves causing some restriction--shutoff valves are the way to go to get around that--

2k1ho---yes the BG pump is loud, but ya get used to it and I like to hear it now--if you're gonna sell it let me know--chris

[This message has been edited by csutton7 (edited 04-17-2001). ]
 
is the pump mounted directly to the frame or did you isolate it with a block of rubber ? the carter is loud if its under your butt and not isolated .
 
I think the pumps are loud by the tank due the boxed in part of the frame resonating. I am going to order the silent mount kit Carter offers and see if that isolates the vibration better. (part # through Summit: CRT-18-14U)
 
csutton7, email me if you want the BG pump. do you want the regulator also? the pump has run for maybe an hour. dman344@yahoo.com

mopar-muscle, yes i did isolate the pump with rubber mounts, it's still LOUD !
 
new devolpments on the pump /line saga ... but the HP pump may be a bit to much volume , the std issue 15 psi pump may be a better alternative , especially for a lightly BOMBed cummins , more when i get back home next week .
 
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